Article [13] ST1300 - Switched Power Tap

Mellow, Thanks for the informative article.

I tapped the red wire w/ the green stripe on my 05 ABS for my Valentine1.

For the ground, I used the mounting bolt for the rear shock adjustment near the fuse boxes. I scraped the frame down to the metal, applied silicone grease, attached the ground wire lead & rebolted. I did not want to attach another wire to the negative terminal of the battery.

Merry Christmas to eveyone!
 
Glad it worked out for you.
 
Some slightly better pictures of the Acc wire.

2006, non ABS.

Acc-position1-XL.jpg


Acc-position-XL.jpg


Instructions on how to install a PosiTap- LINKY
 
I tapped this wire. It works, BUT now the turn signals blink so fast it looks like they are nearly constant on !!
HELP !!!!
 
Re: ST1300-Switched Power Tap

Do both turn signals front/back blink?
What else did you hook up to the fuse block?
 
The wire you tapped into does handle the fuse which sends power to the signal/hazard lights. But, if they are blinking fast that is an indicator one of the filaments of one of the bulbs, if not the entire bulb is burnt out. If you un-do the tap, it will probably still blink fast. Check the 4 bulbs 1st.
 
Hey Mellow,
does the wire tap need to be fused? Does it matter if it is?
I can't fin a place that sell the Poi-Tap's, they look t me as if I came from another world....If they do not know the product it` **** to their eyes. Probably explains why our roads are in a very poor condition. I will order a few on line and have them shipped to me.
My alternative would be to splice the wire (which I do not want to do or use self stripping connector as used in the automobile industry).

Let me know what you think.
Thanks, Frenchie
 
Frenchie said:
Hey Mellow,
does the wire tap need to be fused? Does it matter if it is?
I can't fin a place that sell the Poi-Tap's, they look t me as if I came from another world....If they do not know the product it` **** to their eyes. Probably explains why our roads are in a very poor condition. I will order a few on line and have them shipped to me.
My alternative would be to splice the wire (which I do not want to do or use self stripping connector as used in the automobile industry).

Let me know what you think.
Thanks, Frenchie
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Everything you do should be fused... so if you don't want to use this you can use other places for power but you need to have a fuse between this and your gps. Or, you may be buying a new gps. Also, make sure your gps accepts 12 volts.. some, require a step-down in voltage.
 
mnxs54 said:
I'll chime in that on something with a minimal draw like a GPS I'd be comfortable just taking a ground right to the frame rather than all the way back to the battery, but that's just me.
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I'm very comfortable with using the frame for ground for anything I might want to add. I believe that the ground cable from the battery is connected to the frame, and the frame provides the path of least resistance for current return to the battery. The frame will certainly carry much more current than any green wire you can tap into or add to the bike.
 
Glad I came back and reviewed this article again. I discovered that I had tapped into the wrong source for my aux 12V power. It was connected to a switched circuit, just not the one that I intended to tap. What I had tapped into was protected with a 10amp fuse, but I don't know where it went, and I prefer the aux circuit provided with a 15amp fuse, just in case my compressor approaches anything near that when it's under load. That's the biggest load I will ever put on it. I'm glad I tapped into it with a plug-in connector to the fuse block rather than cutting and/or splicing or tapping into a wire. All I had to do was unplug my connector and plug it back in where it should have gone to start with.

The first photo below is a SAE connector with the leads clipped off and the remaining bare wire ends sealed with a coat of liquid tape. I keep this plugged into the matching aux power connector when it isn't being used, for weather protection. The second photo shows the red/green wire for the aux circuit connected to the skinny fuse holder, although it appears to be red/white in the photo (possibly from the camera's flash?). This is where I plugged in my connector, seen near the bottom of the photo right under the shock preload knob. The last photo is a closeup of the connector crimped onto the red "hot" lead. I thought I had taken a photo with the connector plugged into the fuse block, but if I did the photo was inadvertently deleted from my camera before being sent to my desktop. My SAE aux power connector has a white ground wire rather than green, but it seems to work just as well. It's grounded to the frame via one of the seat bracket retaining bolts (seen in the third pxhoto below). The power connector simply resides behind the side cover when not in use, and rests in the "groove" along the bottom of the cover. When I need it for something, all I need to do is reach behind the cover to fish it out, unnecessary to remove the cover.

EDIT: I discovered after posting the above that the wire that I had "added" for a switched power tap had fallen out (or inadvertently pulled out) so I had to find a reliable way to resolve the problem. See this post (#8) for what I came up with. I expect it to work very well, though I need to test it with my Slime compressor to see if it will pass that test - just haven't taken the time to do that yet.
 

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Hi!

Can I confirm from your post the power switch for st1300 (2010) is located at the thin fuse box indicated by red wire w/green stripe.

I currently trying to install FZ1 fuseblock to my ride ....

thks in advance
 
zuke said:
Hi!

Can I confirm from your post the power switch for st1300 (2010) is located at the thin fuse box indicated by red wire w/green stripe.

I currently trying to install FZ1 fuseblock to my ride ....

thks in advance
Click to expand...

I don't know the FZ1 but it sounds like you are looking for a switched hotwire to trigger a relay for switched circuits from your fuseblock? The fuseblock should have a harness to connect to the battery. Power for the block comes from battery. You can use any switched circuit (like the rear light) that comes on with the key to activate the relay for fuseblock circuits you want switched. If the location is under the pillion seat a rear light hot wire that comes on with the key would be my choice. Any switched circuit would do. There are only limited uses for an unswitched circuit, for instance a circuit that is used to plug a battery tender. If someone knows the FZ1 better maybe they can explain more clearly.
 
beeker said:
I don't know the FZ1 but it sounds like you are looking for a switched hotwire to trigger a relay for switched circuits from your fuseblock? The fuseblock should have a harness to connect to the battery. Power for the block comes from battery. You can use any switched circuit (like the rear light) that comes on with the key to activate the relay for fuseblock circuits you want switched. If the location is under the pillion seat a rear light hot wire that comes on with the key would be my choice. Any switched circuit would do. There are only limited uses for an unswitched circuit, for instance a circuit that is used to plug a battery tender. If someone knows the FZ1 better maybe they can explain more clearly.
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Hi Beeker thks for the advices . I managed to fellow Mellow post in first page and locate the trigger switch on thin fuse holder on the left saddlen. Now l have fix my volmeter, tire pressure monitoring system and bike rear and front video.

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
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Getting ready to install my fuseblock wiring from the rear to the front of the bike. In this article is is breifly mentioned about raising the tank and running the wires beneath the tank and coming out beside the battery. In my case I have a 3/8" wire loom that I am using to protect the wiring from abrasions etc. Near the front of the bike do you run the wires outside the frame beside the coil or inside the frame next to the air cleaner cover? I would think that next to the coil would not be the most desirable and may pick up electrical noise in the wires. A couple of detailed descriptions and or pictures would be appreciated.
 
Second question....For the FS-1 Fuseblock...What is wrong with using the battery ground with the main power going to the fuseblock and then using a jumper to the other side of the Fuzeblock for the ground block? Ground is ground right as long as you have a properly sized wire for the jumper?

BTW... Thanks to Mellow for starting this thread. The discussion has been great for familiarizing myself to the possibillities on farkle wiring.
 
milkmaster said:
Getting ready to install my fuseblock wiring from the rear to the front of the bike. In this article is is breifly mentioned about raising the tank and running the wires beneath the tank and coming out beside the battery. In my case I have a 3/8" wire loom that I am using to protect the wiring from abrasions etc. Near the front of the bike do you run the wires outside the frame beside the coil or inside the frame next to the air cleaner cover? I would think that next to the coil would not be the most desirable and may pick up electrical noise in the wires. A couple of detailed descriptions and or pictures would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

I located my fuse block in back under pillion seat. See https://www.st-owners.com/forums/sh...on-FZ1-Fuse-Block-Wire-Connections&highlight= Others have bought a mount from MCL for theirs. The only way I see you need to route those wires under the fuel tank is if you mount the fuse block forward somewhere, which I have seen in the forum. Most have been mounted in back.

milkmaster said:
Second question....For the FS-1 Fuseblock...What is wrong with using the battery ground with the main power going to the fuseblock and then using a jumper to the other side of the Fuzeblock for the ground block? Ground is ground right as long as you have a properly sized wire for the jumper?
Click to expand...

My fuse FZ1 block is connected to the battery both pos and neg per instructions. Don't know about the FS-1.
 
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