- Joined
- Oct 26, 2020
- Messages
- 2,027
- Location
- Makefield Highlands PA
- Bike
- 2016 ST1300P
- 2024 Miles
- 013434
What did you do with your ST1100/ST1300 today?
- Thread starter Mellow
- Start date
Just over 1700mi in 27.5hrs. I should have taken a starting milage picture. I think i made 1500mi in under 36hrs.
I have considered drilling or otherwise modifying the calipers to communicate the chambers and decided against it. That's based on two concerns: one is trapping air and the other is structural integrity. Instead, I will use multiple hoses to apply force to both chambers at once. For the rear, that can either be with a a double banjo bolt on the caliper with a jumper line to the other chamber, or a double banjo bolt from the MC to each banjo on the rear. On the front, there will be a double banjo at the MC and either a splitter above the front fender or a double banjo on each caliper with a jumper to the second orifice.
I haven't decided yet whether to connect the master cylinder to the two outers or to use a splitter or jumper or double banjo bolt to serve both chambers. I understand I may need to replace the rear master cylinder, too, but I'm less concerned about that right now. I'll first try connecting only to the two outers since the rear currently serves the SMC and center piston, so probably pushes enough fluid to do that. I doubt I need a three piston rear caliper, but I'm happy to replace the rear MC for higher volume if that's what it takes.
There's a place near me that makes industrial hydraulic hoses and I can get custom braided steel brake lines with any fittings I want, while I wait. So if I change my mind, it's a single trip to the store to get a different hose.
Rode back from the charming Muskokas and ONSTOC and used the “road less travelled” strategy. I can now add three new tracks to my “best roads” playlist. 
Thanks for your good wishes, I appreciate that. I think the key is to spring for the MC on the front. I've gambled about $150 that the 5/8s will be adequate. It will definitely work, but if I don't like the amount of lever travel, I'll just go to the 3/4 or 7/8 MC. Sticking with Nissin all the way. In back, if the MC won't push two pistons very well, I'll get a MC off a sport bike and make an adapter plate if I have to.
sirbike
Site Supporter
Looks like I am the first to delink at least here. I wanted the simplicity.
Ive come to appreciate Honda’s system. No plans to delink my other ST1300s and no plans to reconnect the linking on the delinked bike as it works fine. Over 20,000 miles no problem.
When the Blackbird I bought last year showed problems related to the linked system, I delinked that one. Simple, cheap, well known and accepted in the Blackbird and Interceptor communities.
As a base to start from I recommend stock front MC to the 4 outer pistons.
Stock rear MC to all three rear pistons.
The rear can be drilled for one line to feed all three but your approach of feeding at both banjo bolts makes bleeding easier.
I've already replaced the stocker with a 5/8ths. My plan was actually to give you the 5/8 for your five piston setup if it turns out too small for the six piston setup I'll run.
Thanks for the info on the rear. It must be pushing a lot of fluid for that linked circuit.
Thanks for the info on the rear. It must be pushing a lot of fluid for that linked circuit.
catcher
Site Supporter
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2005
- Messages
- 1,218
- Location
- Woodstock, New Brunswick, Canada.
- Bike
- '18Wing, '16VFR1200X
Nice! Just like we talked about. But there's only one Muskoka, so best not to pluralize it...Rode back from the charming Muskokas and ONSTOC and used the “road less travelled” strategy. I can now add three new tracks to my “best roads” playlist.
I stand corrected sensai,
and thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
Managed to replace my faded dials in the dash with new. Much better. Also realised that a previous owner had desoldered, reversed, and resoldered the HISS led 
trying to save a bit of battery when the bike sits? Kept the ST in their bedroom and the flashing annoys them? Very strange...
Also played with calibrating the needles (simply replacing them as they were may not have been good enough, who knows what the PO did...). The ECU provides 2 pulses per revolution for the tach (nice and simple), and I had previously compared the trip meters with fixed mile markers on the highway - trip meters are within a percentage point. From there, I counted the VSS pulses needed to get the trip from 0 (reset) to just change to 1.0 - 80893 pulses per mile (as in 80894 pulses will trip it over to 1.0 miles). Then it was just a case of feeding the right frequency for various speeds. I calibrated at 100mph, resulting in the needle over-reading slightly from 0 - 60mph, pretty much dead on 60 - 100mph, then over-reading slightly from 100mph+. Not sure the reason for the non-linearity, but it matches my old dials, and the supplier for the new dials traced theirs from a stock item, so it seems to be designed in. The car's the same too, perhaps theirs some legislative reason behind it. (There certainly is for speedometers over-reading from the factory)
Added a couple miles to the dash, but looking much better now
trying to save a bit of battery when the bike sits? Kept the ST in their bedroom and the flashing annoys them? Very strange...Also played with calibrating the needles (simply replacing them as they were may not have been good enough, who knows what the PO did...). The ECU provides 2 pulses per revolution for the tach (nice and simple), and I had previously compared the trip meters with fixed mile markers on the highway - trip meters are within a percentage point. From there, I counted the VSS pulses needed to get the trip from 0 (reset) to just change to 1.0 - 80893 pulses per mile (as in 80894 pulses will trip it over to 1.0 miles). Then it was just a case of feeding the right frequency for various speeds. I calibrated at 100mph, resulting in the needle over-reading slightly from 0 - 60mph, pretty much dead on 60 - 100mph, then over-reading slightly from 100mph+. Not sure the reason for the non-linearity, but it matches my old dials, and the supplier for the new dials traced theirs from a stock item, so it seems to be designed in. The car's the same too, perhaps theirs some legislative reason behind it. (There certainly is for speedometers over-reading from the factory)
Added a couple miles to the dash, but looking much better now
Before and after pics would be nice…
On the subject of brakes... My ST1300 supplied power to my cell phone as it fed music to my bluetooth speaker while I installed new front pads and Galfer braided stainless lines on my (okay, my son's) 650 WeeStrom.
The Galfer installation went great but their instructions really undersell the challenge with attaching their line to the hard lines in and out of the ABS modulator. To adapt to the flared end of the line, Galfer uses a little "olive inversor" (sic) in their machined block. Unfortunately those lines angle upward to their frame mount below the steering head making it really difficult to join the Galfer block to the hard line without allowing that inversor to fall out due to gravity and the necessary downward tilt of the block to align with the hard lines.
Once installed things went smoothly aided nicely by a pair of MotionPro brake bleeders. Wish I could find the length of blue aquarium tubing I stole from, ...err was given by, @ToddC while at NEWSTOC in June. My lowly Home Depot vinyl tubing worked just fine.
The Galfer installation went great but their instructions really undersell the challenge with attaching their line to the hard lines in and out of the ABS modulator. To adapt to the flared end of the line, Galfer uses a little "olive inversor" (sic) in their machined block. Unfortunately those lines angle upward to their frame mount below the steering head making it really difficult to join the Galfer block to the hard line without allowing that inversor to fall out due to gravity and the necessary downward tilt of the block to align with the hard lines.
Once installed things went smoothly aided nicely by a pair of MotionPro brake bleeders. Wish I could find the length of blue aquarium tubing I stole from, ...err was given by, @ToddC while at NEWSTOC in June. My lowly Home Depot vinyl tubing worked just fine.
Great pic! It's like a still from an establishing shot from a movie. Well done.
Can't argue with thatBefore and after pics would be nice…
Before (faded 'red line', illumination showing through the black, smudged graphics):
After (much better):
Added the official sticker, LOL
And the facia is flatter than the older version. Look factory fresh.
Brego got a much needed sponge bath to remove the Muskoka snowmobile trail grime off him from ONSTOC.
ToddC
Site Supporter
I have more...!!!!! TOn the subject of brakes... My ST1300 supplied power to my cell phone as it fed music to my bluetooth speaker while I installed new front pads and Galfer braided stainless lines on my (okay, my son's) 650 WeeStrom.
The Galfer installation went great but their instructions really undersell the challenge with attaching their line to the hard lines in and out of the ABS modulator. To adapt to the flared end of the line, Galfer uses a little "olive inversor" (sic) in their machined block. Unfortunately those lines angle upward to their frame mount below the steering head making it really difficult to join the Galfer block to the hard line without allowing that inversor to fall out due to gravity and the necessary downward tilt of the block to align with the hard lines.
Once installed things went smoothly aided nicely by a pair of MotionPro brake bleeders. Wish I could find the length of blue aquarium tubing I stole from, ...err was given by, @ToddC while at NEWSTOC in June. My lowly Home Depot vinyl tubing worked just fine.
Installed an MC Cruise on my 2012 ST1300A!
Will report details of the project elsewhere, first post is here https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/after-years-of-procrastinating.176062/post-2329496 but I'll look to see if there's a more appropriate topic for MC Cruise specifically in the ST1300 Tech section. In a nutshell, everything short of actually engaging while on the road appears to be working. Time for troubleshooting later today. (Switch bracket arrangement is temporary!)
Will report details of the project elsewhere, first post is here https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/after-years-of-procrastinating.176062/post-2329496 but I'll look to see if there's a more appropriate topic for MC Cruise specifically in the ST1300 Tech section. In a nutshell, everything short of actually engaging while on the road appears to be working. Time for troubleshooting later today. (Switch bracket arrangement is temporary!)