Article [13] ST1300 - Rostra Cruise Control Installation

Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

I'm about to start this project, and I want to get some replacement airbox screws before I start - can anyone tell me what type/size screw to purchase, and where to get them?
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

I'm deep into the cruise install, and I have a question about the 9 pin connector I'm making from the GW switch harness. In alexst1300's instructions, both the middle-left pin and the top-right pin are Black w/White (see attached diagram). Since there is only 1 Black w/White wire coming from the GW harness, do I make a pigtail on that wire so that I can use it in both pin locations, or am I missing something?

*** UPDATE *** The Brown/Red wire from the GW switch goes in the top-right pin! Using the Black/White wire in both the middle-left pin and the top-right pin doesn't allow you to turn off the engine via the kill switch, and leaving the top-right pin empty results in no headlights.

HondaST1200RostraCruiseControlInsta.jpg
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

I have the cruise installed and it passed all the tests in the Rostra manual, but when I set the cruise it will drop 5 -10 mph, then slowly come back to the speed I set. Then it will bounce back and forth from the speed I set and 5 - 10 mph below that speed.

Any ideas?
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

Qbird66 said:
I have the cruise installed and it passed all the tests in the Rostra manual, but when I set the cruise it will drop 5 -10 mph, then slowly come back to the speed I set. Then it will bounce back and forth from the speed I set and 5 - 10 mph below that speed.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I hope somebody does! I am installing the same system as you in a couple of weeks (was supposed to be last year!).
If you followed all the instructions as set out, all I can think of is faulty components?
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

I disconnected the blue wire from the cruise control that taps into the blue/yellow wire on the coil, and the cruise now works perfectly. If you're using the lighted GW switch for your install, use the brown/red wire in the top-right pin when you create the 9 pin connector from the GW switch harness (see the update on post #45).

Good luck on your install!
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

Disconnecting the blue tach wire that runs from the cruise control to the coil turned out not to have an effect. I'm still having the same problem I reported in post #46 (although the speed differential isn't as big now): when I set the cruise it will drop 2 - 5 mph, then come back to the speed I set. Then it will bounce back and forth from the speed I set and 2 - 5 mph below that speed.

Anyone have any ideas?
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

Hello, I'm in the process of installation of CC, he asks, is proved necessary to install "Centrodyne Y060 pulse divider"?.
Not enough gray wire CC plug to green-pink wire? VSS?
Blue wire CC connected to yellow-green? TACH?
Someone rostra 250-1223 +250-3592 panel installed?
Thanks.
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

VSS Speed Pulse Generator Magnet Kit 4 Rostra Audiovox.
with this product also solving VSS signal?
Thanks.
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

I've found my problem - the Futaba arm is moving independently of the throttle drum. I clock it to 45% from vertical (toward the left side of the bike) and go for a test ride. The cruise constantly bounces my speed up and down 5 mph or so. When I get back, the Futaba arm is only at 30% from vertical.

I followed alexst1300's instructions for building and attaching the arm, but I cannot get the nut tight enough to hold the arm (in the attached picture from alexst1300's instructions, note the nut is only halfway on the bolt). I've tried locktight to no avail. I'm actually installing on 2 ST's at one time, and we stripped the bolt on one bike trying to get it tight enough. I'm thinking about using JB Weld to attach the Futaba arm to the throttle drum.

Can anyone offer some advice/alternatives?

Thanks,

ST1300Cruise-Futaba.jpg
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

Qbird66 said:
I've found my problem - the Futaba arm is moving independently of the throttle drum. I clock it to 45% from vertical (toward the left side of the bike) and go for a test ride. The cruise constantly bounces my speed up and down 5 mph or so. When I get back, the Futaba arm is only at 30% from vertical.

I followed alexst1300's instructions for building and attaching the arm, but I cannot get the nut tight enough to hold the arm (in the attached picture from alexst1300's instructions, note the nut is only halfway on the bolt). I've tried locktight to no avail. I'm actually installing on 2 ST's at one time, and we stripped the bolt on one bike trying to get it tight enough. I'm thinking about using JB Weld to attach the Futaba arm to the throttle drum.

Can anyone offer some advice/alternatives?

Thanks,

ST1300Cruise-Futaba.jpg
Click to expand...

Hey Qbird,

When I made the hole in my arm, I drilled a smaller hole and used a couple jewelers files to enlarge the hole and create the flat sides so it would not slip in the shaft.

Like this.
Flat-side-hole.jpg


With a round hole, there is no way to tighten the nut tight enough without stripping the limited amount of threads on the flat sided throttle shaft to hold the arm.
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

Juan said:
Hello, I'm in the process of installation of CC, he asks, is proved necessary to install "Centrodyne Y060 pulse divider"?.
Not enough gray wire CC plug to green-pink wire? VSS?
Blue wire CC connected to yellow-green? TACH?
Someone rostra 250-1223 +250-3592 panel installed?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Hey Juan,

You do not have to use the Y060 pulse divider but, you would have to pick up kit# 250-4165. This is the kit to install a set of magnets with a pickup on a wheel. Either front or rear wheel. You would need to follow the instructions for setting dip switch 10 to OFF if you use a magnetic pickup on a wheel.

The OFF setting for switch 10, uses a sine wave input rather than the much more accurate square wave input (ON for switch 10,) from the VSS with the pulse divider.

For the cost of the pulse divider and, the amount of time it would take to install a magnetic pickup, the pulse divider is a much better and accurate option.


You will need to lengthen the gray wire to reach the VSS on the lower, right hand, rear side of the engine on the ST. I found that removing the vapor canister allowed much better access to splice into the VSS.

The VSS wires actually head toward the back of the bike to connect to the ECM.

VSS-location.jpg


Also, more accurate speed control is obtained with the pulse divider. My speed will maintain a 1 MPH setting even climbing mountains or, gusty wind.

The blue wire from the Rosta connects to the Blue/Yellow wire on the right side coil (cylinders 2&4)
 
Re: ST1300 Rostra Cruise Control Installation

snowmoer said:
I finished the installation of the Rostra cruise control using the Gold Wing backlit control. A big thanks to altest1300 for his great instructions. He used the non-backlit control in his instructions. With the backlit control, some of the wire colors have changed from Al?s instructions.

Here are the updated wire colors and parts:

Gold Wing backlit control #35130-MCA-A21 from a 2005 Gold Wing. $137.85 from Hondaparts online.

Hook up 12V with a 4 amp fuse to the Black w/Yellow wire on the Gold Wing switch.

The Black w/Green wire hooks up to the Rostra Red/Brown wire.

The White w/Yellow wire hooks up to the Dark Green Rostra wire.

The White w/Blue wire hooks up to the Yellow Rostra Wire.

The Brown Rostra wire needs to be hooked up to a 10 amp switched circuit. I used a relay that is turned on by power from the Quartet Harness.

In the dipswitch settings, Al?s instructions state that switch 12 is in the ?ON? position. The backlit switch is an open circuit switch, so number 12 needs to be in the OFF position.

The Rostra Blue Tach wire gets hooked up to the Blue w/Yellow coil wire. I just made a pig tale so I did not have to cut the coil wire.

To get the backlights to work, I ran switch power from the Quartet harness and hooked it up to the Light Green w/Black wire. This wire also had red squares on it. The solid dark green wire needs to be grounded. Now the backlights will work when the key is on.

If you want to use the Reverse Shift Switch to turn on and off Aux lights, you will use the Yellow w/White and Brown w/Green squares. I ran keyed power from the Quartet Harness to the Yellow/white and hooked the Brown wire to my Moto light relay.

If you have any LED?s for brake lights, you will need to put a relay in to get a good ground for the Rostra Violet wire. Wires to hook up to the relay: #85 to brake negative (+12v when brake is pressed), #86 to ground, #87 not used, 87A Rostra violet wire, #30 to ground.

Below is a photo of what the Gold Wing switch looks like with the lights on.
Click to expand...

OK. I am confused. I have the exact same Goldwing switch you do. ( 35130-MCA-A21 - SWITCH ASSY., STARTER & STOP & Honda Code 7652209 CRUISE.
My wire colours seem t be a little different. On page 16 on AltexST's document he has the 9 pin connector bang on from the ST1300 side. I can locate These wires on the Goldwing switch:
Green w/Yellow
Black w/White
Yellow w/Red
Blue w/White
White w/Green

What I can't find on the Goldwing switch is:
A WHITE wire
A second BLACK w/WHITE wire (Do I use the same one?)
Also, the Yellow w/Red wire has black squares on it.

Help?
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

The Brown w/Red wire from the GW switch goes in the top-right pin, where the original instructions have the Black w/Red -> Black w/White.

As I recall the white GW wire had silver squares on it (but no stripes).

Don't worry about the black squares on the Yellow w/Red wire - ignore all squares, as you only care about stripes.
 
Re: ST1300 Rostra Cruise Control Installation

edgyclam said:
OK. I am confused. I have the exact same Goldwing switch you do. ( 35130-MCA-A21 - SWITCH ASSY., STARTER & STOP & Honda Code 7652209 CRUISE.
My wire colours seem t be a little different. On page 16 on AltexST's document he has the 9 pin connector bang on from the ST1300 side. I can locate These wires on the Goldwing switch:
Green w/Yellow
Black w/White
Yellow w/Red
Blue w/White
White w/Green

What I can't find on the Goldwing switch is:
A WHITE wire
A second BLACK w/WHITE wire (Do I use the same one?)
Also, the Yellow w/Red wire has black squares on it.

Help?
Click to expand...

Try what Q Bird said. I do not think that Honda keeps some of the wire colors the same from year to year on some if it's parts. What I did to come up with what I posted for my GW unit was to take a 6V lantern battery and power each wire to see what it would do. I ran into the same problem, not being able to find the color wire that was stated in Al's info. I thought it was not the same as I was using a back lit unit vs. a non back lit unit. Not sure why things should change so much with the wire color.

Milehigh/Juan

You do not need to dig for the VSS wire behind the vacuum canister. It is located in the main harness on the left front side of the bike. It is the pink wire that Al talked about in his instructions. That is where I hooked mine up to. Much easier than digging into the circuit you are talking about.

Hope this helps.
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

Marshal_Mercer said:
Yes, the regular ST1300 model of the G2 works perfectly.

If you mean by that the Hondaline grip heater, yes, it works just fine. I have the Hondaline grip heater, G2 throttle tube, and the Gold Wing switch installed. All works well.
Click to expand...

I read that you can order a shorter Throttle tamer tube to work with the Goldwing switch. I don't have that at the moment. I guess I have to cut the tube and handgrip down to work for now. My throttle tube is about 1"too long, I don't have that many washers to take up the slack even though the bar end weight bolt reaches.
Can you buy shorter handgrips to accomadate the Goldwing switch?
 
Re: ST1300-Rostra Cruise Control Installation

edgyclam said:
I read that you can order a shorter Throttle tamer tube to work with the Goldwing switch. I don't have that at the moment. I guess I have to cut the tube and handgrip down to work for now. My throttle tube is about 1"too long, I don't have that many washers to take up the slack even though the bar end weight bolt reaches.
Can you buy shorter handgrips to accomadate the Goldwing switch?
Click to expand...
The ST throttle tube is exactly the same diameter as the Gold Wing tube, although the Gold Wing's may be slightly longer or shorter; I'd bet longer.

I used several washers to fill the gap that you found. IIRC the gap was much less than an inch. You might want to contact G2 to get their advice.

Marshal
 
I'm considering of doing this mod soon as I love the ideal of having electronic cruise control and I was wondering if anyone that has done this discover any issues or have any more tips in going about it.
 
I got my cruise in the other day and it is working ok other than being a little sensitive, but I didn't have the pulse divider yet. I received the divider today and it wasn't what I ordered. They sent me the updated Z063 Maestro by Centrodyne because the old Y060 is no longer available. It looks the same inside other than another set of jumpers to set gain which as shipped to me with the jumper open so they preset it to no gain setting. There is still the C8 capacitor on the board as well.... I don't know what to do. Should I still clip the C8 capacitor? Should I set the gain? There are no instructions with it and I can't seem to find anything on the web. Has anyone had any dealings with this new pulse divider? Also I am guessing the white wire comes from the bike VSS and the green wire goes to the cruise.

On another note I had a Speedohealer laying around for my Vulcan that I never used so I cut into the wiring and spliced it in just after where I tapped in for the cruise. It works well, but instead of entering a negative 8 into the Speedohealer to set my speedo right, I had to set it at a positive 40. Kind of weird, but it works properly and it does not affect the cruise.
 
Ok I answered my own question, and here it is. I have the cruise installed as per altexst1300 instructions other than grounding the tach wire right off the bat. I tried my luck on the Z063 Maestro by Centrodyne that has now replaced the Y060. I set it a divide by 2. There is another set of jumpers to set gain so I took a shot in the wind and set the gain at Lo-Med, and I never cut out the C8 diode. It works perfect. I had added a Rostra cruise to my Kawasaki VN2000 over 2 years ago and ended up putting the magnet kit in, but I think I am going to get another one of these pulse dividers and go back to the VSS on it and get rid of the magnets. The cruise worked ok with the magnet pickup kit, but the install to the ST1300 works perfect. I took it all the way down to 25mph and it run perfect. I also checked on my SpeedoHealer install I I have it wired in correctly. I thought it might have been in backwards. It is opposite the pulse divider although. The divider is Green in White out and the Healer is White in Green out and to correct what I said earlier I have the Healer set at a positive 0050.0 and my speedo is right on with the GPS. Now the plastic can go back on it.... Thanks for all the info on this install.

Edit... I had the SpeedoHealer in convert mode so that was why I was having to set it at a positive 0050.0 and now that it is set properly I am at -07.0
 
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