ST1300 Rear Crash Bars Interfere With Passenger Footpegs - Any Workaround?

MajorTom said:
Overall I'd recommend the MCL extenders with the Big Dawg bars. However, even though I upgraded the rear shock with a Race Tech spring and valve kit to compensate for the weight of a pillion I still had feedback from her when the outside of her boot toes contacted the pavement on a tighter turn. I'm not sure if she kept her toes tucked in or had them angled out. There was never any issue with our feet getting in each others way and one big advantage of the MCL peg extenders is the increase in leg room for the pillion which was much appreciated by my missus.
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Thank you for the feedback. My wife did mention that the rear pegs seemed to be a little higher than on my ST1100 and some other bikes we have ridden. I had Race Tech rebuild the rear shock and add a stiffer spring so I think we are good there. I'm thinking maybe the Goldwing bars and the extenders.

If I understand correctly MCL is Motorcyce Larrys? - which I think is now out of business? So I would have to look around for a set of used MCL extenders.
 
SMSW said:
One last comment. Should you take these off, don't remove both bolts on one side at the same time. The frame can slip and it will require two people or a jack and some wood blocks to line everything up again. This doesn't happen every time, but its easier to loosen both bolts, remove one, pivot the bar to one side, replace the bolt and then take out the other one. The original bolts were shorter than the ones supplied by Bygdawg with his bars. Check for interference on the inside of the frame as you snug them up if you don't have the OEM bolts. I don't know how long they were, or I would have posted that.
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Just curious, but couldn't this also happen on the install as well, if you remove(d) both bolts at the same time to install?
 
GoodGuywitha9mm said:
Just curious, but couldn't this also happen on the install as well, if you remove(d) both bolts at the same time to install?
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It's been reported here that yes, if both bolts are out (esp. if you loosen one side and then take the other side's bolts off) the frame can slip. It doesn't happen to everyone and I've installed and removed and reinstalled Bygdawg's bars on my bike with no problems at all. As I posted, I loosened one bolt, removed the other and pivoted the guard out of the way...etc. I saw no slippage with one bolt loose and the other out. IIRC, Bwgdawgs instructions were to remove one bolt, install the guard with his longer bolt, then remove the second bolt and pivot the guard into place. He warned against this slipping.
 
dduelin said:
Not much you can do with those, they way they are put together puts the lower part close to the foot peg. Goldwing bars with staggered bolt holes free up a couple of inches by moving the lower part close to the saddlebag.
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Do GW bars work as well on the ST?
 
DrDan70 said:
Do GW bars work as well on the ST?
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If you read this thread through from post #1 you will see pictures of GW bars mounted and how much heel room they provide a passenger with or without the adapters.
 
I would love to, but right now (and the next two weeks), I'm in the middle of a major move.

Look around the site for GoldWing crashbars and adapters.
 
dduelin said:
If you read this thread through from post #1 you will see pictures of GW bars mounted and how much heel room they provide a passenger with or without the adapters.
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I didn't realize they were GW guards; probably because they're vertical. I'm not planning on any two-up riding, that's why the Wing is getting triked.
 
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