ST1300 oil change procedure?

Sadlsor said:
Yeah, it's a question(-s) about the plastics removal.
Thought today I could surely change the oil in 2 hours, having never done it on this bike. Epic FAIL.
I likely took off a lot more tupperware than I had to. Firstly, I removed the little maintenance lid, but couldn't get the valve cover off, fearing breaking it, so I attempted to take off the whole right side panel, figuring it out as I went. (What is the real purpose of that "maintenance" lid anyway? Doesn't give access to squat!) Ultimately couldn't get it off, but loosened it enough to remove the right cover, in order to access the oil filler cap.
Next I couldn't get the old filter off. Tried it on the center stand, tried it on the sidestand - my big ole paws just can't get a good grasp on it, tucked so close to the exhaust as it is. I have an appropriate-sized filter wrench, but there's not enough room to even turn it a quarter turn before the handle runs into something.
Sooner or later I'll get it off, but I know I could do it easier and simpler, with the wisdom of you good folks.
There's a LOT of pages of Tech posts as you know, so ...anyone have a saved link to the best / easiest way to change the oil? I must have 30 plastic pins, plugs and screws out at this point.
Searching for oil change eliminates the word "Oil", as it is so common on the forums.
I'm blathering.
What I should have asked:
1. How much plastic must be removed to perform a complete oil and filter change?
2. Is there a step-by-step guide on here with pictures?
Thanks, all. I won't be torquing this new oil filter as tight as that last ham-fisted dude did.
Click to expand...
No need to remove any plastic in order to do an oil change. Just pop off the right side valve cover (plastic, not really the valve cover), to access the fill port. Using a filter with a hex head helps for future filter changes, or get a a filter socket that fits.....
 
Sadlsor said:
Yeah, *some* of us are like that.
I'm one. Figured I was making a LOT more work for myself, but said WhatDaHeck - I've never been inside the bike, it's still new to me, and it has been sitting for 3 - 4 years.
Besides all that, though, I'm just anal-retentive enough to want to dust off all those dark places that never see the light of day, and I try to do ALL my own maintenance (limited occasionally by specialty shop tools or ignorance - but I still try to find out about what I don't know)
Next time, however, I'll know better and I'll DO better.
I really appreciate all the comments, and I REALLY appreciate that this is still a vibrant, active group, now TWELVE years after the bike has been discontinued.
So, simply... THANKS!!:yr1:
(still gotta get my hands on a service manual)
Click to expand...

Here is a downloaded ST1300 service manual, it may not be exactly what you're looking for but it should help and if I'm not helping let me know.
 

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  • 2003-honda-st1300-st1300a-60982.pdf
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Ooh!
Another resurrection.
This was one of my first threads, early last year when I first brought the bike home.
Since then, I've changed the oil a few times, fitted the oil filter properly AND bought a genuine service manual.
Thanks for the memories!
 
Shuey said:
K&N-204 filter on 3 ST1300s and 2 FJR1300s for now approaching 500K miles . . . never a leak. Also, the nut on the filter is the same size as the drain plug, so you've already got the right tool to remove a K&N filter.

FWIW,
Shuey
Click to expand...

The failure mode is that weld fatigues the steel and then cracks for a leak. I personally know members on other forums that have crashed because the oils soaking the rear tire, one was on a race track. There are members on this forum that have had leak. Even Igofar has found some.

Yes it is a small percentage of the filters that this happens to and understand that you have been fortunate to not have a filter leak..
Sure there a chances that it may never occur, but then there are chances that it could occur.
So, you are still willing to play poker?
 
mello dude said:
The failure mode is that weld fatigues the steel and then cracks for a leak. I personally know members on other forums that have crashed because the oils soaking the rear tire, one was on a race track. There are members on this forum that have had leak. Even Igofar has found some.

Yes it is a small percentage of the filters that this happens to and understand that you have been fortunate to not have a filter leak..
Sure there a chances that it may never occur, but then there are chances that it could occur.
So, you are still willing to play poker?
Click to expand...

Yep, and raise. Add on a couple more filter changes on my FJR without any problems. Sometimes it's just good to be lucky I guess. I change about every 5k miles and don't over tighten. Never a leak, easy off and a new one on using the nut built into the filter. I find it a lot easier to pack and use my socket wrench than a cumbersome filter wrench.

Shuey

PS: Just curious, your guess as to what percentage of these filters have failed? More than .10% (that's 1/10th of a percent)?
 
The only problem (back at the start of this thread) was my brother in law must have taken it to the stealer for the oil change, before I got it.
I NEVER have seen the need to gorilla-grip the durn filter that stinking tight.
Strange, ain't it, that this was the only issue I've ever had, changing the oil. Ever since that first one, it's been as easy as, um, ...changing oil on a Honda.
 
Igofar said:
Do NOT use the torque recommended spec in the service manual (20 ft lb).
This is wrong and can damage your oil filter mount.
Replace as any other oil filter, lightly seated them 1/2 to 3/4 turn by hand, do NOT use a wrench to tighten the filter.
Click to expand...

I find that if I tighten the filter by hand as described above I can later grab it with a rubber-coated glove and spin it off without a wrench as well.
 
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