ST1300 oil change procedure?

After seeing more than a few K&N oil filters leak, and a recall, I'd pass on them and if you don't want to use Honda Filters, I'd use either a Mobil 1 M110 or Bosch 3300 :rolleyes:
 
Shawn K said:
For what it's worth, the K&N KN-204-1 filter has a 6-point hex head on the end, so you can remove the filter with a normal socket.

The Auto Zone in my neighborhood stocks them. I'm guessing that others do as well. You can also get them on Amazon.

Way easier than using a filter wrench on my ST13.
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That will be my NEXT oil filter, for sure! I had already bought the Honda piece.
But now I know. Thanks!
 
Kevcules said:
Most of the problems with oil filter removal are because they were put on too tight. You shouldn't use a oil filter wrench to tighten the filter. Lightly oil the gasket and turn it until the filter touches, then turn it another 1/2 to 3/4 turn , usually by hand.
Anyone know the part number for the metal end piece , for filter loosening? :) It sure is an awkward spot to try and get my strap tool onto.
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I don't know the part number for the filter I bought, but it came from Advanced Auto Parts chain.
Sure didn't work for me, it slipped as I said... but someone had put that filter on too tight. I had even brought the NEW oil filter (existing filter was also the correct Honda part) with me, to make sure I got the filter "socket" that fit.
As has been said in this thread, I have never torqued to spec ANY oil filter, on ANY vehicle I've ever owned, and have never had an oil leak as a result. One of the many reasons I like to do my own work... the service team won't be around when I need to get back in there and do something.
Poor picture of my oil filter socket, but you can see where I even tried the electrical tape inside, to make for a tighter fit. I think they're pretty generic, as I saw the same attachment for the same price at Advanced, made by two different manufacturers. I couldn't see any difference between the two brands, in terms of fit (tried both on my new filter), finish, or steel quality.
That said, I'm sure there IS a difference between all the ones available.
In any case, the oil filter I removed was simply installed unnecessarily tightly. No reason for that at all.
In the end, I'm calling this a WIN. Got it done, learned what NOT to do next time, learned a lot about how the tupperware pieces are connected to each other, and I ended up with ZERO leftover plastic pin bits or steel screws.
Which reminds me - just like on the Blackbird, these plastic push-pins are gonna age and break, so I had better go ahead and order a handful of the different sizes / forms.
Anyone have an illustrated parts diagram for this beast?
Still haven't ordered a service manual. Note to self...
And thanks again for all the response, advice, and shared experience. I appreciate you all.
#WINNING
 

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Sadlsor said:
The filter socket I bought today didn't help... it just kept slipping.
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They sell different size filter sockets of this type for different diameter filters. The one that you buy has to match the size of the filter that you intend to use it on.
Kevcules said:
Anyone know the part number for the metal end piece , for filter loosening?
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There is also Honda P/N 07AMA-MFJA100. I have no idea what the difference between this P/N and the P/N posted by Larry above is.

A little tip however. Last year when I was at my local Honda dealer to buy an oil filter they didn't have any in stock. They did have an oil filter kit in stock however.
I didn't keep the P/N. I just tried to look it up and this kit does appear on the parts fiche diagram but they don't list the P/N for it.
This kit includes a Honda oil filter and the Honda oil filter socket- which has no P/N on it. Because they didn't have the filter in stock they sold me this kit for the same price as the filter alone so now I have one. The parts guy said it was called an oil filter kit. If you want one of these sockets, don't have the P/N, or the Honda dealer doesn't have it in stock, ask them to look for this kit. They might just have one in stock like my local Honda dealer did and you'll have a filter to boot.
 
For the fairing panel clips or rivets you need p/n 90116-MCS-G00 (maintenance cover and various other locations), p/n 90116-SPO-003 (top two rivets for the inner cowls), and p/n 91549-MWO-790ZA (for the 3 in the back edge of the inner cowls, 2 in the lower inner cowl), and 90657-SBO-003 (odd ones in the very bottom of the middle cowls and the inner cowls). A good parts diagram is found at Cycle Parts Nation and other OEM Honda parts dealers. They are listed as #23, 24, 31, and 28 on the Honda parts diagram titled ST1300 LOWER COWL

In your travels pick up one of these for an oil filter wrench. It fits all modern Honda filters, both OEM and aftermarket ones that fit not only Honda but also aftermarket filters (Mobil, Bosch, etc.) for other brands of motorcycles and cars. At one time this one wrench fit filters for all our Honda and Mazda cars, Honda and Triumph motorcycles. Fits in tight places and won't slip.

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K&N-204 filter on 3 ST1300s and 2 FJR1300s for now approaching 500K miles . . . never a leak. Also, the nut on the filter is the same size as the drain plug, so you've already got the right tool to remove a K&N filter.

FWIW,
Shuey
 
Andrew Shadow said:
The one that you buy has to match the size of the filter that you intend to use it on.
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I could not agree more. :) I use the Bosch 3323 filter and a matching filter wrench. Installed properly it comes off with the wrench and minimal effort.
T_C said:
Why use a wrench on a hand tightened filter to begin with?
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I use one because they never come off as easily as they went on. In general that's probably a good thing. It also means I can remove a really hot filter that much sooner. I could wait a few minutes but me remove a hot filter with my bare hand would be just showing off.
 
Why use a wrench on a hand tightened filter to begin with?
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I use one because they never come off as easily as they went on. In general that's probably a good thing.
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Technical documents, not necessarily the oil filter manufacturer's, used to claim that the purpose of lubricating the oil filter seal with engine oil before installation was that this caused the seal to swell a small amount. This increased the pressure between the filter, seal and engine helping to prevent oil leaks.

I have no idea if there is any truth to this and never put much stock in it as I have never seen any evidence of a swollen oil filter seal. If true however, by its very nature the filter will be tighter at the end of its life than when it was put on. I do know that a filter installed using the recommended procedure always seems to require more force to remove than it took to install, for whatever reason, whether that can be done by hand or not.
 
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Can't quite read the logo but the P/N on mine is 25404; OEM maybe from a Google search, 65-67mm and fits a 3/8" drive. Works on the Mobile1 M1-110As I use. Usually I have to take it off as soon as the filter rotates, because it fits tight enough, once the filter is too loose, it won't come off without tightening the filter back up some. And I do run a oil wetted finger around the new seal before installation; it helps it go the full 3/4 turn by hand when installing.

Edit - Ref Larry's comment below, mine doesn't slip. Not sure why he had that impression, but the one shown works on the M1-110As, as stated. I use it every time w/o problems. Just checked against a new filter and it does look like the outer diameter is somewhat larger than further in (likely to give the mm variance in fit), but when pressed on, it grips a 3/4 turn mounted filter just fine.
 
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Actually I think the logo is OEM Company.

Gus1300 said:
And I do run a oil wetted finger around the new seal before installation; it helps it go the full 3/4 turn by hand when installing.
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No reason why but I always thought that was the purpose of oiling the gasket. Spin the filter on and it slides to a stop to provide the baseline for the 1/2 to 3/4 turn. No reason why I thought that. Don't really remember reading or being told the why. There is no why - there is only do. :D Sudo.
 
Gus1300 said:
20200324_082631.jpg1585053395452.png

Can't quite read the logo but the P/N on mine is 25404; OEM maybe from a Google search, 65-67mm and fits a 3/8" drive. Works on the Mobile1 M110s I use. Usually I have to take it off as soon as the filter rotates, because it fits tight enough, once the filter is too loose, it won't come off without tightening the filter back up some. And I do run a oil wetted finger around the new seal before installation; it helps it go the full 3/4 turn by hand when installing.
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The reason the oil filter wrench in your picture slips is because its the incorrect size.
The correct oil filter wrench should be 64 mm. Several of the generic (cheap) stuff sold at parts stores are poorly made pot metal, the wrong size (close) and are stamp cut etc.
Find yourself a good one in the correct size (64mm) and you should have no more problems.
 
If the oil filter wrench you have is the wrong size, meaning too big and the filter spins inside of it try this...

Clean that filter wrench really really good with a degreaser and brake cleaner.
Apply some good glue (Scotch spray 90, Gorilla, etc.) to the inside of the wrench and throw some course sand at it.

When it dries that sand will provide some traction hopefully. Worth a shot as I've done it before and it works. Now I have a few different size filter wrenches.
 
Kevcules said:
Anyone know the part number for the metal end piece , for filter loosening?
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Andrew Shadow said:
A little tip however. Last year when I was at my local Honda dealer to buy an oil filter they didn't have any in stock. They did have an oil filter kit in stock however.
I didn't keep the P/N.
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I found it.
FILTER SET, OIL 15010-MCE-H51

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I did a little digging today and found that my toyota vehicles which have a spin on oil filter , are the same size as the ST1300 filters. YES!
I have the oil filter end cap tool for them.
I use HiFlo Filtro oil filters for the ST1300 and just tried one for size. :)
 
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