ST1300 oil change procedure?

Sadlsor

Sadlsor

Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 15, 2020
Messages
4,738
Age
67
Location
Birmingham, Alabama
Bike
2008 ST1300A
Yeah, it's a question(-s) about the plastics removal.
Thought today I could surely change the oil in 2 hours, having never done it on this bike. Epic FAIL.
I likely took off a lot more tupperware than I had to. Firstly, I removed the little maintenance lid, but couldn't get the valve cover off, fearing breaking it, so I attempted to take off the whole right side panel, figuring it out as I went. (What is the real purpose of that "maintenance" lid anyway? Doesn't give access to squat!) Ultimately couldn't get it off, but loosened it enough to remove the right cover, in order to access the oil filler cap.
Next I couldn't get the old filter off. Tried it on the center stand, tried it on the sidestand - my big ole paws just can't get a good grasp on it, tucked so close to the exhaust as it is. I have an appropriate-sized filter wrench, but there's not enough room to even turn it a quarter turn before the handle runs into something.
Sooner or later I'll get it off, but I know I could do it easier and simpler, with the wisdom of you good folks.
There's a LOT of pages of Tech posts as you know, so ...anyone have a saved link to the best / easiest way to change the oil? I must have 30 plastic pins, plugs and screws out at this point.
Searching for oil change eliminates the word "Oil", as it is so common on the forums.
I'm blathering.
What I should have asked:
1. How much plastic must be removed to perform a complete oil and filter change?
2. Is there a step-by-step guide on here with pictures?
Thanks, all. I won't be torquing this new oil filter as tight as that last ham-fisted dude did.
 
YouTube to the rescue. Lots of oil change info... and NEXT time I'm getting a K&N filter, or one with that lovely nut tacked on for easy removal!
Adding to my wish list... an actual SERVICE manual.
 
I just did mine yesterday, so it's fresh in my mind!
I don't remove any of the fairing ( commonly called "Tupperware" ) to do an oil change. Yes, the oil fill cover is a bear to get off, but it gets easier with time. It is easier if you trim a part of it- one of the plastic "washers" cast into the top , the one NOT with a rubber liner in it, can be trimmed off, to have less inI interference. I don't have a picture to show, but a search of the forum might turn up one.
Yes, the oil filter CAN be a b***h kitty to get off if it is a bit tight. I have large hands too, and share your frustration. I have a strap type oil filter wrench that'll just fit in there, but it IS a pain!
I make a habit of changing the final drive oil every time I change the engine oil, it costs little, and is a good reminder.
 
klaproth said:
I just did mine yesterday, so it's fresh in my mind!
I don't remove any of the fairing ( commonly called "Tupperware" ) to do an oil change.
Click to expand...

+1 Neither do I. Before you put the plastic valve cover back on try putting a little grease or vaseline on the fitting with the rubber liner. It should come off easier next time. Good luck.
 
You want easy I'll tell you easy and watch 10 people post here my method is wrong don't do it.

I did my 31st ST1300 oil change yesterday at 290,160 miles. I still use the Walmart Supertech 6607 filter and my regular brand (T6) oil.

2 hours after an oil warming 2 hour ride I place the side stand on a 2x4 block just to raise the left side a bit.

From the right remove the crankcase oil drain plug with a 17mm box end wrench and let oil drain into a low pan.

Using a proper sized oil filter "socket" on a 3/8 drive ratchet, pull the centerstand down to the floor and snake in the socket to the filter. let the centerstand go back up. Loosen the filter about 1 round (to finger loose). Remove filter socket, remove filter by fingers while moving the centerstand up down as needed. Some oil will drain on the pipe and tupperware as the filter is removed I don't care it smokes off quickly on my next ride. If you care more than me stick a piece of cut milk jug up in there somehow to better control the flow......

Replace with new filter and replace the oil drain plug (I never replace or flip the crush washer). Pull the pin in the side cover. Pull up the rear of the side cover and slide it all forward. Insert a gallon of oil. Replace parts go ride 10,000 more miles.

This is the easy method. You'll have longer more involved posts right after this.....................
 
Last edited:
W0QNX said:
... I place the side stand on a 2x4 block just to raise the left side a bit. ...
Click to expand...

I'm surprised that I never thought of that. Thanks, it will definitely make things easier.

And to make things easier for me the next time I change the oil, I wrote this on the maintenance lid:
(in case that's hard to read, its says "unclip and slide forward")

Once you have that lid off to see how it's attached, it's pretty obvious

maintenance lid.jpg
 
Last edited:
I do remove the lower cowl on the left side just to make it easier to get to the filter, but you don't have to. Use a filter wrench and extension to get the filter loose. There is a torque spec for the new filter.
Remove the maintenance lid and lift the valve cover garnish and slide forward to expose the oil filler cap.
Each oil change is a good time to look things over under the bike and every 3rd oil change ( 24,000 miles) I replace the final drive fluid - (super easy)
 
I like to remove the tupperware, clean and wax it (I can hear the groans starting) and do more than just change the oil. This is a good time to look for corrosion or darkening of the plastic wire connectors (no, I don't rip the bike apart but a quick look at the visible connectors and battery is better than no look).

At my first oil change w. this bike I realized that the cup type oil filter wrench was mandatory. Yes, I had a strap type wrench that worked that time, but I retired it soon afterward.
 
If you want to see more, you can remove just the left lower cowl (however this is not needed).
If you decide you do want to remove it, just remove the 5 bolts, and one push rivet, and lower it down on a 4x4 block so you don't have to remove the lower push pins etc.
Your ratchet works better from the right side of the bike, lifting up (pulling towards you) than trying to push down from the left side.
I work with the bike on the center stand since its more stable, and I'm using a table lift.
If you want to keep oil off your stuff (including the center stand) make yourself a funnel/ramp from an oil bottle (see picture).
If you want to get a better drain, strap the clutch lever back, this will allow the clutch plates to separate and release all the crap instead of hanging on to it.
20190417_105049_1555525022519_001.jpg20190417_105335_1555525031711_001.jpg20190417_105324.jpg
 
SMSW said:
I like to remove the tupperware, clean and wax it (I can hear the groans starting) and do more than just change the oil. This is a good time to look for corrosion or darkening of the plastic wire connectors (no, I don't rip the bike apart but a quick look at the visible connectors and battery is better than no look).
Click to expand...

Yeah, *some* of us are like that.
I'm one. Figured I was making a LOT more work for myself, but said WhatDaHeck - I've never been inside the bike, it's still new to me, and it has been sitting for 3 - 4 years.
Besides all that, though, I'm just anal-retentive enough to want to dust off all those dark places that never see the light of day, and I try to do ALL my own maintenance (limited occasionally by specialty shop tools or ignorance - but I still try to find out about what I don't know)
Next time, however, I'll know better and I'll DO better.
I really appreciate all the comments, and I REALLY appreciate that this is still a vibrant, active group, now TWELVE years after the bike has been discontinued.
So, simply... THANKS!!:yr1:
(still gotta get my hands on a service manual)
 
ST-Traveler said:
I do remove the lower cowl on the left side just to make it easier to get to the filter, but you don't have to. Use a filter wrench and extension to get the filter loose. There is a torque spec for the new filter.
Remove the maintenance lid and lift the valve cover garnish and slide forward to expose the oil filler cap.
Each oil change is a good time to look things over under the bike and every 3rd oil change ( 24,000 miles) I replace the final drive fluid - (super easy)
Click to expand...
Do NOT use the torque recommended spec in the service manual (20 ft lb).
This is wrong and can damage your oil filter mount.
Replace as any other oil filter, lightly seated them 1/2 to 3/4 turn by hand, do NOT use a wrench to tighten the filter.
 
Igofar said:
If you want to get a better drain, strap the clutch lever back, this will allow the clutch plates to separate and release all the crap instead of hanging on to it.
Click to expand...

Hadn't ever thought of this, will try it next time.

Igofar said:
Replace as any other oil filter, lightly seated then 1/2 to 3/4 turn by hand, do NOT use a wrench to tighten the filter.
Click to expand...

I usually spin freely until the rubber gasket makes contact, then 3/4 turn; works just fine. Have never torqued an oil filter.

I also just use a piece of foil covering the exhaust pipe to prevent initial drip down when the old filter breaks contact. After the main drain, a small tupperware bowl catches what little comes out from removing the filter.
 
Igofar said:
(20 ft lb).
Click to expand...
Sheesh. How did they not spot that?

Re the thread, never had an issue. Centre stand gets less oil on the exhaust if you're doing the filter.

Bit of a pig getting your hands in the first few times.
 
The filter socket I bought today didn't help... it just kept slipping. So I tried a sliver of cut-up bicycle inner tube.
No joy.
Tried varying thicknesses of electrical tape.
Dammit!
Now it became a sheer battle of will.
Here's what finally broke it loose.
Last resort, as I sure didn't want to crush the filter and get stranded in my driveway...
 

Attachments

  • 20200322_144043.jpg
    20200322_144043.jpg
    91.3 KB · Views: 102
Sadlsor said:
The filter socket I bought today didn't help... it just kept slipping.
Click to expand...
I've bought a number of these over the years. Some are stamped out of very thin metal and do slip. Others are made more stoutly and do the job. Not knowing what you found or anything about your filter, I don't know if you got a piece of junk or simply had bad luck w/ the filter. Good that you used that alligator tooth pliers to get the job done.
 
For what it's worth, the K&N KN-204-1 filter has a 6-point hex head on the end, so you can remove the filter with a normal socket.

The Auto Zone in my neighborhood stocks them. I'm guessing that others do as well. You can also get them on Amazon.

Way easier than using a filter wrench on my ST13.
 
Most of the problems with oil filter removal are because they were put on too tight. You shouldn't use a oil filter wrench to tighten the filter. Lightly oil the gasket and turn it until the filter touches, then turn it another 1/2 to 3/4 turn , usually by hand.
Anyone know the part number for the metal end piece , for filter loosening? :) It sure is an awkward spot to try and get my strap tool onto.
 
Sadlsor said:
The filter socket I bought today didn't help... it just kept slipping. So I tried a sliver of cut-up bicycle inner tube.
No joy.
Tried varying thicknesses of electrical tape.
Dammit!
Now it became a sheer battle of will.
Here's what finally broke it loose.
Last resort, as I sure didn't want to crush the filter and get stranded in my driveway...
Click to expand...
post-10351-1269674669973.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom