Article [13] ST1300 - Maintenance - Front & Rear Wheel Install and Front Axle Animation

Painting the forks will also make the mudguard fit tighter. As will build up of rust on the rectangular captive thread on the inside of the mudguard. But I'm in the UK: rust prevention and reducing the build up of corrosion in the ST1300's hidden places is a constant battle.

General rule - loosely assemble things first and then tighten when they are in place.

Except .... (I can hear Larry missing his fingering for the B7 flattened 9th as he read that last statement ) ... Except for the rear caliper stopper bolt. Get that in and torqued up first.

Glad it is sorted @PanRider1300
 
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I may have misunderstood but unless some other work is being done removing the front mud-guard (fender) is not required in order to remove or install the front wheel.
 
What is than the purpose of this whole allignment procedure if the forks are tight due to the mudguard and the brake lines? They can not move when the rest is tighten.
Beside this all, i can not believe that a garage wil do this.
I think that this procedure is good but only if the forks are free in movement.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
...... removing the front mud-guard (fender) is not required in order to remove or install the front wheel.
Click to expand...

It might depend on how high off the ground the front is lifted. My bike is on the centre stand with a scissor platform jack under the sump. It is only just clear of the ground if the back wheel is in. At that height the top of the wheel will not pass under the front of the mudguard. If the back wheel is out then it will jack up a bit higher - but I never bother. It's only a few bolts - and it means I can inspect the bolts and clean them up - the inside of the threads are exposed to some pretty horrible conditions and can rust from the end of the thread. I usually copper grease these.
 
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