Article [13] ST1300 - Maintenance - Front & Rear Wheel Install and Front Axle Animation

jfheath

jfheath

John Heath
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 18, 2006
Messages
2,998
Age
70
Location
Ilkley, W Yorkshire, UK
Bike
2013 ST1300 A9
2024 Miles
000679
Animated sequence to show the correct procedure when installing the front wheel into the forks of a Honda ST1300.

The right hand side of the bike is the side with the brake lever. Left is the clutch lever side. This is the convention used in the Honda manuals.​
The video and the photo below are both shown as if looking at the front wheel from in front of the bike. So the brake lever side of the bike is on the left of the image.​


The spacers that sit between the fork and the wheel hub can be fitted in 4 different ways, only one of which is correct. The other 3 will cause damage. [edit]The photo below shows the relative position of the spacers / collars on the axle. They are not shown in their final position once the axle has been tightened. The measurement on the photo are approximate but adequate to distinguish between the two collars and to recognise the correct orientation. It makes sense that the two sides with the same measurement are the sides which fit into the bearing seal.[/edit]
Mine are easy to spot from the polishing of the dust seals on the spacer - but beware using similar marks if your bike was bought second hand !

1596319614345.jpeg

Below are two pdf documents on installing the front wheel and rear wheel respectively.
(Just updated 1 Aug 2020) - 57 downloads of previous versions)

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Other related articles:

Article13.png ST1300 - Fitting Wheel Bearings - What the manuals don't tell.
Article13.png ST1300 - Front wheel bearing replacement [VIDEO]

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Attachments

  • Front Wheel Remove and Replace.pdf
    1.8 MB · Views: 432
  • Rear Wheel Remove and Replace.pdf
    1 MB · Views: 377
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capnkirk said:
Awesome animation! Now I understand what all the hub-bub was about.
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LOL! I was confused having never removed my ST wheels. I was thinking one of the four 6mm (?) bolts at the bottom of the forks and also mistook the axle as the axle bolt.
 
Fantastic animation! I was smiling the whole time, having done this sequence a few times. That is just TOO cool! Thanks JF!!
 
jfheath said:
I came across an interesting comment the other day where a member discovered that his front axle bolt was missing, and I got to wondering about how that could happen.
Click to expand...

Yea, me too.

That was my post. I think part of it is incompetence, though that's a theory - either they never installed the "nut", or they did but improperly torqued.

Anyway, i really appreciate the video - it confirms what ive known for years, but could never visualize in my mind.
 
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jfheath said:
I ran out of blue Loctite a couple of months ago (this is the stuff that can be undone here in the UK - I think the colours are different in USA ? Anyone ? )

Hi john,
My understanding on the different colours of threadlock / Loctite is :

blue - applications of Anti Vibration.

Pink - Applications of non movement of Fine threads

Red - applications of non movement of normal threads

Green - basically the strongest - i.e. liquid weld.

Hope that helps

Tony
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jfheath said:
Tyres - 5K for the rear is the norm for me.
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John:

Have you tried using the Michelin PR4 GT tires? I use them on my ST 1300 and they give phenomenal life - about 10K miles for the rear tire and 15K miles for the front tire. I'm very happy with the handling of these tires.

Total payload when I ride (myself & pannier contents, but not including fuel weight) is about 240 pounds.

Michael
 
jfheath said:
Thanks Michael. I haven't tried those. That is pretty good mileage - but we reckon that we are pretty close to the 410lb limit when we are 2 up with camping gear - which is a good bit more. Do you know what you got when/if the bike was equipped with BT020 ?
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The missus and I would be over the "limit" even before we started to load the panniers, top box and tank bag. :biggrin: It always surprised me that the load capacity never really went up as the bikes got larger. I really just take the GVWR as a suggestion, otherwise I'd be riding solo. YMMV
 
jfheath said:
Do you know what mileage you got when/if the bike was equipped with BT020 ?
Click to expand...
Hi John:

I never rode it with the BT 020. I bought the bike used, with 20,000 miles on it, and changed both tires to Michelins the day after after I bought it.

I still think it might be worth your while to give the Michelin PR4 GT tires a try, even though your loaded weight is higher than mine. I use Metzeler Z6 tires on my ST 1100, which I operate at the same all-up weight as my ST 1300, and I easily get double the mileage from the Michelins on the 1300 vs. the Metzelers on the 1100. My 'riding style' is the same on both bikes.

If you do decide to give the Michelins a try, be sure you specify the PR4 GT tire. The GT (Grand Touring) is specifically designed for heavier bikes such as the ST 1300, Gold Wings, and the large BMW tourers. I believe that Michelin puts a much harder compound in the middle of the tire, compared to what they put on the sides, and that is why they last so long. I think Michelin also understands that riders of these large touring bikes put about 80% of their mileage on the tire riding long distances (i.e. motorways), but the riders still want good grip and good handling once they get to the twisties.

Michael
 
Assembling the front wheel, the article says:

"It is important that the clearance between the brake disc and the
calliper bracket is at least 0.7mm on each side of the disc. "

and has a small picture. I just changed the pads on the front and it's all back together. But I'm not sure where I'm supposed to check this gap?

Thanks!
Dave

 
It is difficult to see what you are doing because the fork leg is in the way !

I hold a single clean feeler gauge against the brake disc / rotor and slide it back towards the caliper bracket.

There is a picture in the service manual. Click to enlarge this image. Do this on both sides of the left hand brake disc.

1638165145914.png

The left hand side (clutch lever side) clearance changes due to the position of the fork leg on the axle. The position is locked in place when the axle pinch bolts are tightened. In theory the .7mm gap should be correct when the end of the axle is flush with face of the axle hole in the left hand leg. If it isn't, there is probably something wrong with the installation of the wheel, the axle, the spacers or the bearings.

The right hand clearance (brake lever side) should also be checked. It is less likely, but incorrect wheel installation can result in it being wrong. (eg if spacers wrongly fitted, or if the right hand pinch bolts were tightened before tightening main axle bolt)
 
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