ST1300 Headlight LED's List

spiderman302 said:
The Cycflops bulbs might be OK off road, but the F2 has three refinements that the 10.0 bulb does not have, focus, beam shape and beam placement.
It is all in the details. This is explained ad nauseum in my other threads.
I am still very happy with the way the F2 works for me.
I have not found anything that is significantly better yet.
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One question, please: For my '01 1100, should I use the adapter rings, a horizontal piece of #18 wire, or both?
 
I do not have the ST1100 but I would just try the #18 wire across the bottom slots.

The cyclops bulb does not have a real high beam. Look at the beam pattern on a wall and switch from hi to low. You will see that the high beam is just a more focused low beam. This is because the two leds are not offset like on the F2. Look at the two leds on the F2 the back one is off set lower than the front one just like the halogen bulb. This offset is how the high beam projects above the low beam.
The XHP 50 is round so it makes a spot. the F2 uses a long thin led that makes a wide thin beam on the horizon. More light where you want it and less glare for the rider.
 
Jammin'John said:
They look different.
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Tricks of the camera.
In the 1st photo the one with the circuit board photo isn't an f2 at all. No idea what that is. The one beside it is an F2, but it's the back side. The tiny bolt/rivet hole you see at the bottom is the same one as in the second photo. It holds the oval plate you see in the second photo that covers the circuit board. It's "solid" in the 1st photo (the other side.) Have I confused you?
 
Obo said:
In the 1st photo the one with the circuit board photo isn't an f2 at all. No idea what that is.
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Zackly. I think the marketing people wanted an image showing illuminations and grabbed on and 'shopped it in not realizing that wasn't an F2. And it's little mistakes like that which cause confusion. As mentioned above the key is the offset emitters and the shield.
 
Larry Fine said:
One question, please: For my '01 1100, should I use the adapter rings, a horizontal piece of #18 wire, or both?
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One or the other. The wire accomplishes the same thing as the adapter. If you used both your light beam would be way out of whack.
The adapters would probably be easier to get installed.
When I had my ST1100's I removed the bulb bases from the OEM bulbs that I took out and cut the centres out to make my own adapters..
 
Andrew Shadow said:
One or the other. The wire accomplishes the same thing as the adapter.
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Well, to me, they would have slightly different effects, unless I'm missing something. I do have a pair of rings, by the way.

Rings would move the bulbs straight back, deeper into the reflector, while wires would move the tips of the bulbs lower.

I asked because I'm not sure which is preferable. I could experiment, but I'd rather do it once, correctly, and be done.
 
Whooshka said:
The ones I received for the FRJ, same manufacturer mind you, did not have those bulky little side boxes like the ones that came on my ST. Just the short cord and plug to go into the stock plug.
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I haven't done this upgrade on my 1300, but follow these threads.
I seem to remember clicking a recent link in a post, where the mfr now has the F2 bulb WITHOUT the adapter or converter box. Recall it was a simple install, than the original starter thread mentioned.
I don't think I was dreaming....
 
Jammin'John said:
So you folks who have upgraded the headlight. Do you also have auxiliary lighting ?

JJ
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Yes. I have 5.5 inch LED driving lights under my mirrors. This is an old picture. I now have the clear turn signal lenses with switchback bulbs.IMG_20161201_134217385_HDR.jpgIMG_20210316_160421830.jpgIMG_20210316_160421830.jpg
 
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Larry Fine said:
Well, to me, they would have slightly different effects, unless I'm missing something. I do have a pair of rings, by the way.

Rings would move the bulbs straight back, deeper into the reflector, while wires would move the tips of the bulbs lower.

I asked because I'm not sure which is preferable. I could experiment, but I'd rather do it once, correctly, and be done.
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Something must be added to compensate for the removal of the two lower tabs that must be removed to use a 9003 bulb or the bulbs will not stay in place.
The wire is sometimes suggested as a suitable alternative to using the adapters because a piece of wire is usually easier to come by whereas the adapters must be sourced and purchased.
The intent of either item is to provide something solid for the lower portion of the bulb base to rest against to keep it in place.

Using the adapters will change the focal point of the light beam a slight amount because the bulbs are being moved further back in to the reflector. It changes it so slightly that it is not an issue and is not even noticeable in any tangible way in my experience.

Using the wire, the headlight assembly may need to be adjusted downward a little because the tip of the bulb will be orientated downward slightly more than it is supposed to be. This results in the light beam being directed upward a little. This can be easily compensated for using the remote headlight adjuster.

Using both the adapter and the wire at the same time would result in a light pattern that is shining upward. It would also result in a light pattern that is even more out focus as the bulbs are now not only being moved even further in to the back of the reflector, but are also being pointed downward at the same time.

There is no point using both. Since you already have the adapters you might as well use them. My suggestion would be to install them and go ride.
 
st11ray said:
Yes. I have 5.5 inch LED driving lights under my mirrors. This is an old picture. I now have the clear turn signal lenses with switchback bulbs.IMG_20161201_134217385_HDR.jpg
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If the headlights are now LED terrific aren't the other lights way overkill ?
Aren't you blinding the cars ?
I was thinking about these but thought they would be WAY too much.
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Jammin'John said:
If the headlights are now LED terrific isn't the other lights way overkill ?
Aren't you blinding the cars ?
I was thinking about these but thought they would be WAY too much.
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I don't use them in traffic (much) but I do use them at the same times that you can use your regular high beams. Mine are wired separate so that I can use them with the hi or lo beams. You can NEVER have too much lighting, IMO.
 
Decided to roll the dice. Tossed my Sylvanias and decided to go with these from Amazon for $44 pair. Very impressed. I feel safer being able to see now while New LED headlight bulbs March 8 2021.JPG
 
Nighteye H4 LEDs used quite widely amongst my riding friends (ST13 and other bikes) in UK.
 
Warning the DZG bulb above is a very bad design for an H4/9003 bulb.
It will have excess glare on low beam and no sharp cutoff!
The low beam emitter is at the focus point so adding a shield will not work.
you will have to point the best part of the beam very low to get by which defeats the best attribute of the H4 design....
The F2 type bulbs works so much better.
 
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spiderman302 said:
Warning the DZG bulb above is a very bad design for an H4/9003 bulb.
It will have excess glare on low beam and no sharp cutoff!
The low beam emitter is at the focus point so adding a shield will not work.
you will have to point the best part of the beam very low to get by which defeats the best attribute of the H4 design....
The F2 type bulbs works so much better.
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If I get the F2's do I just snip the bottom 2 tabs and it will automatically be aimed correctly ? I ask because the socket rotates.

1615930572191.png
 
You snip the two lower brackets so the mount fits in. You can then swivel the bulb for the correct orientation. The holes you see in the base are for the spring loaded ball bearing in the base to lock it in place. I forget the orientation but will dig it up.
 
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