Article [13] ST1300 - Gear Position Indicator (Do It Yourself)

Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

Awesome!
I'm starting to hunt parts for mine now.
Many Thanks for doing all the work on this project!
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

I dont know if anyone has mentioned this yet but you can get free "samples" from microchip.com if you have a university or business e mail on file with them. it lessens the barrier to entry if anyone wants to learn how to program pic microcontrollers, saves you a few bucks... once I mass produce devices i will of course buy them from microchip.com...
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator

Nice work! I have a Zilog Z8 eval kit lying around collecting dust. I had originally intended to use it in a speedo/tach design for an old CB750 that I used to own. A gear indicator would make a perfect application for the Z8 with my ST.

Now if I can find some time to do it...
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

OK, so it took me a wee bit longer to get my work wrapped up on Maggie's Harley. Chalk it up to some down time waiting for proper parts to arrive while other parts to her bike were spread all over the shop. Anyway, that's now yesterday's news. Phil (Curmudgeon) is heading over later this morning and by the time he arrives, tupperware should be down on my ST, ready for GPI installation. Film at 11...

John
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

Woo Hooooooo!

Took just about 3 hours, but thanks to expert help from Curmudgeon, my ST now has a GPI installed. Pat Fruth's documentation really makes this project a piece of cake. I'm doing a thermostat installation, so the bike isn't all buttoned back up yet. I'll be mounting the indicator off my dash shelf and will post a picture of what it looks like when everything is said and done.

It's a real testimony to Pat's work that this came off without a single hitch. Neither Phil nor I swore a single time and the indicator fired up, programmed, and worked exactly as indicated in the documentation. Heck, there's lots of commercial products where you can't say that.

Great job, Pat. You've produced a first rate product that lots of riders would be happy to own.

John
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

Has anyone figure out how to make it work on an ST1100?

Marcus
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

John,Pat...
What did you do for a PC board layout? I was thinking of dead bug construction technique and then the vibration issue came in.

What did you guys use??

thanks,
mitch
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

John,Pat...
What did you do for a PC board layout? I was thinking of dead bug construction technique and then the vibration issue came in.

What did you guys use??

thanks,
mitch

I've never actually used the "dead bug" technique. Just can't bring myself to do it. Call me anal, I guess. IMHO, the motorcycle environment is too harsh. Too much vibration, and other elements.

I'm not sure what the technical name is for my construction technique. Here's a few pics of my completed unit. That little prototype board from Radio Shack makes it pretty easy. Yaaaa, I could probably etch some custom PCB's, but this is waaaaayyy cheaper. And really not that hard to do.
 

Attachments

  • 1.JPG
    1.JPG
    195.2 KB · Views: 155
  • 2.JPG
    2.JPG
    234.6 KB · Views: 151
  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    195.6 KB · Views: 150
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

Has anyone figure out how to make it work on an ST1100?

Marcus

I don't know if anyone else has done any work on an ST1100 version. Far as I can tell, no one has posted anything to the thread thus far.

My offer still stands. If there's an ST1100 owner in the Denver area, and wants to, I'm willing to give it a go.
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

So... I've been working on another little innovation (well maybe not so little as it turns out).

I can't remember if it was on this forum, or the RC51 forum... but awhile back someone came up with the suggestion to incorporate a Speedo-corrector feature into the GPI. Over the past couple of weeks, I've managed to get the algorithm for a stand-alone speedo-corrector working. Did some minimal testing over the weekend, and it seems to be working well. Right now, it's stand-alone. Meaning it's running in a dedicated microcontroller. That's all it does (correct the speedo signal). At the moment I've only tested with hard-coded correction factors (i.e. 5%, 7%, 10%, 20%, etc). I've yet to add code to enable end-user customization. Kinda like I did with the "Learning" mode on the GPI.

Anyhow, over the coming few weeks (or maybe months, cuz work & weather keep getting in the way), I plan to work on integrating/merging the GPI code and the speedo-corrector code so that they both run in a single microcontroller. This could be quite a challenge. It's starting to push the limits of the little 16F88. Might have to step up to a more capable PIC variant. Maybe a 18F or 24F. I'll keep you posted as my testing progresses.

Note: I'm NOT calling this a Speedo-Healer, as that is a copyrighted, registered trademark.
 
Last edited:
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

Pat, you're a pretty amazing guy. I really admire your creativity as well as attention to detail. It will be a lot of fun to see what you come up with next!

While this has been a while in coming, attached are photos of my final installation. I also included a "work in progress" photo of Phil (Curmudgeon) toiling away soldering connections. Pay no attention to the stray wires. They belong to my Zumo and radar detector.

I chose to mount the display off of an L bracket that's attached under a RAM ball off of my dash shelf. Easy to see and doesn't get in the way of anything else. A little velcro attaches the display to the bracket, to make it easy to detach when I need to do any future maintenance. Phil was also kind enough to bring along with him a smaller display, one that could be mounted in the dash display. That's how he plans to mount his, so it will be very interesting to see how that progresses. Over time, I may migrate to that type of display.

Good luck to any of you who undertake this project. Pat has given us a great deal of information to make this go about as smoothly as it could.

I've been interested in this farkle for over two years when I first read about one of the in dash mounted displays. Always thought it would be cool to have something like this. And as always, another good way to learn things about your ST.

John
 

Attachments

  • Phil GPI.jpg
    Phil GPI.jpg
    100.7 KB · Views: 166
  • GPI Final.jpg
    GPI Final.jpg
    64.5 KB · Views: 237
Last edited:
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

Here's a few pics of my completed unit.

Hi Pat,
Now the pictures really clear it up for me. Picture is worth a pound of solder.
Looks like you "microWeld" as good as me!!

I wonder if I could surface mount device and make it smaller??

mitch
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

...Looks like you "microWeld" as good as me!!
So, your soldering suck too, huh? :D

...I wonder if I could surface mount device and make it smaller??
Ya, this has been tossed around before. I'm thinking the whole thing could easily be made to fit inside the display encolsure, by using SMT parts. This will probably never happen (not by me anyway), due to my waining eyesight, and lack of SMT tools.
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

I am rapidly developing a case of "GPI Envy". The cure, of course, is my installing a ready-to-roll GPI on my bike. If anyone has a cure for said malady, please PM me! The future of the world at large --and my not staying in 4th gear while going down the highway, getting crumby gas mileage in the bargain-- depends upon it.

Marshal
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

Marshal - the cost of the components is pretty darn low and this can be a fun off season project. Water in the deep end ain't that bad. And you got Pat's great documentation to work with (an expanded version is in the works and it's about as idiot proof as you can get).

Carpe diem!

John
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

Carpe diem!
John

John, You fish too?? I love Carp!!!

mitch...
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

Marshal - the cost of the components is pretty darn low and this can be a fun off season project. Water in the deep end ain't that bad. And you got Pat's great documentation to work with (an expanded version is in the works and it's about as idiot proof as you can get).

Carpe diem!

John
Thanks for the words of encouragement, John.

Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment needed for this project, nor the knowledge to troubleshoot if/when I get into trouble. For example: Pat provided the text file to upload to an IC. In order to do this I need 1) a PC; I have a Mac but have access to a PC, 2) a breadboard of the appropriate size; could buy one, 3) the correct cable to connect between the breadboard and the PC; would need to buy one, and 4) the talent to solder all of the components together in such a way as to have them continue to work. 1, 2, and 3 are doable. I'm stuck at step #4.

I'd love to learn how to complete this project. I just don't have the desire to contribute the months that it would take for me to become sufficiently skilled on my own to do so; laziness on my part, I suppose.

Therefore: I will trade what I know for what you (pleural) know.

Why does the ventriloquist’s dummy enunciate so well? Res ipsa loquitur.

Marshal
 
Last edited:
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

Neat project! Love the laser cut box.

A couple of ideas:
Automotive PTC resettable fuses (i.e. Tyco RXEF050), are easier to mount (through hole), they reset on power off (allows box to be sealed / potted), and are cheaper then glass fuses.

To reduce component count:
Possibly instead of using a Learn button, use logic conditions on power on - in Neutral and Clutch in while key is turned on causes Learn mode code to run?
Use weak pullups on the port pins instead of the 10K resistors?
Use the on-board comparators instead of external transistors?
Since (most of) the PIC chips are internally limited to 25ma on port pins, and the KingBright LEDs can take 30ma, remove the resistors to the LED segments and depend on the 25 ma limit? (someone posted a video on Youtube showing this (search on pic current limt))

To allow use of low end programmers (such as the DV164120 PicKit 2 Starter Kit), maybe a different chip then the 16F88 (i.e the 16F690?)
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

interesting suggestions msi. One problem i find is that you wouldnt want to go into learn mode every time you turn the bike on etc, however you could do it automatically the first time and write a flag to the eeprom so that once it is written, it no longer enters learn mode.
 
Re: My home-built DIY gear position indicator - includes plans

Good stuff msi1259

...Automotive PTC resettable fuses (i.e. Tyco RXEF050), are easier to mount (through hole), they reset on power off (allows box to be sealed / potted), and are cheaper then glass fuses.
Agreed... I love these things... I just don't/didn't have any in my junk box inventory when I started this little project. I'm gonna have to update my junk boxe's inventory to keep some of these on hand in the future.

...Possibly instead of using a Learn button, use logic conditions on power on - in Neutral and Clutch in while key is turned on causes Learn mode code to run?
Hmmmm, great idea. I can see using this technique to signal the MC to enter "learn" mode. It's the interactions that need to occur, once in "learn" mode, that I can't quite get my head around. How would you signal the MC to proceed from one step to the next, in the learning sequence? And how would you signal the MC to "[re]learn" the current ambient light conditions?
I'm gonna have to noodle on this for bit. I'd be interested in your additional thoughts around this.

...Use weak pullups on the port pins instead of the 10K resistors?
I did look at this once upon a time. Although the 16F88 does have em, it's an all-or-nothing thing. Either all pull-ups are enabled. Or none are enabled. And only on PORTB pins. Due to the PORT pin assignments, I couldn't enable all of em. When I started this project, all I had was a 16F88 (cuz it met the needs of my initial Suzuki GPI project). Access to bunches of discrete resistors made it easy to work around. Perhaps I should have looked at another family member for the Honda GPI (call me lazy). Looking at the 16F690, it appears the pull-ups are individually settable. I may just have to get me a sample, and play around with this.

...Use the on-board comparators instead of external transistors?
This is an awesome idea. When I first started working with the PIC, I didn't understand the power & value of these little on-board gems. I was/am ignorant. I do now :D

...Since (most of) the PIC chips are internally limited to 25ma on port pins, and the KingBright LEDs can take 30ma, remove the resistors to the LED segments and depend on the 25 ma limit?...
Sitting here thinking about this, I'm reminded of the old story about why Mom would always cut the Christmas ham in half, and then bake one-half at a time. Turned out, it was because that's what her Mom (grams) always did. After digging a little deeper, the real reason was because grams' oven wasn't big enough to bake a whole ham at once. Mom just did what her mom did without thinking about it, even tho her modern oven was big enough :D
Anyhow, I digress....
I've seen this question (whether to use external current limiters or not) come up, from time to time, over on the MC forum I watch. The response always seems to be "Never Never Ever drive an LED without a current limiter". I know the PICs have a built-in protection mechanism. But, it was my understanding that this is NOT to be relied on as the sole current limiting mechanism, else the life expectancy of the PIC may be shortened. So, I've taken the conservative route, opting to use current limiting resistors, for fear of cratering the PIC. Can the port pins really take the abuse? Show me the docs assuring it, and I would love to eliminate the resistors :cool:

Edit: Looking at the "Electrical Characteristics" page in the data sheet for the 16F88. It says the "Maximum output current sunk by any I/O pin" is 25ma. Then at the bottom of the page, in a note, it says, in part "... Exposure to maximum rating conditions for extended periods may affect device reliability". Same statements are found in the data sheet for the 16F690.

...someone posted a video on Youtube showing this (search on pic current limt)
You mean this one; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaHPKWCeYAE

...To allow use of low end programmers (such as the DV164120 PicKit 2 Starter Kit), maybe a different chip then the 16F88 (i.e the 16F690?)
I'm not sure what your getting at here. I use a PICkit 2 to program the 16F88 now (as well as others, such as the 16F886).


I do think I'll get me a couple 16F690's, and look at using that device instead of the 16F88, as I continue my endeavor to combine the GPI and speedo-corrector algorithms. Couple pins bigger footprint.... but would allow the elimination of external resistors. And using on-board comparators instead of external transistors - GREAT IDEA.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom