Article [13] ST1300 - Gear Position Indicator (Do It Yourself)

Helitronix said:
.... pdfruth, that was great to see you are still around. See what you have inspired?
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I'm glad someone still finds any of the information in this thread useful... much less nearly ten years after it all started.
By all means, carry on.

Helitronix said:
I connected my Kingbrite display yesterday and found that it was better in direct sunlight than my previous display. I decided to create an enclosure with a sun shield, so I designed a basic case and 3D printed it. I'll be mounting that new case soon and will see how that goes. If I I like it, I can machine one from aluminum. I may also put a red acrylic lens over the display. I have some acrylic from an old clock I built 35 years ago and am considering salvaging the material from that. Otherwise I'll get some lens tape from the auto store and continue with that.
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I've had good luck with the enclosures from PolyCase. For example, I've used the P-1218TX for this same application.
A sheet of red acrylic, like this one on ebay, comes in handy as a basis from which to fabricate a display mask.
 
Brilliant! Good work. However, by the time I hit fifth gear, I don't have time to look down. :D
 
I find this whole project fascinating but the lack of plug and play makes installation a little above my pay-grade. Does the Gigi use a separate board? From the thread I thought all the magic was in the display module.

On a side note the idea of a shim for the clutch lever might help those of us with the fancy adjustable clutch levers that don't activate (deactivate?) the lock out switch at all positions. Not everybody seems to have the problem implying that a variance in manufacturing tolerances may be responsible. A shim just might correct that. Now back to the regularly scheduled portion of our program.
 
ST Gui said:
I find this whole project fascinating but the lack of plug and play makes installation a little above my pay-grade. Does the Gigi use a separate board? From the thread I thought all the magic was in the display module.

On a side note the idea of a shim for the clutch lever might help those of us with the fancy adjustable clutch levers that don't activate (deactivate?) the lock out switch at all positions. Not everybody seems to have the problem implying that a variance in manufacturing tolerances may be responsible. A shim just might correct that. Now back to the regularly scheduled portion of our program.
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The Digi is an all in one device. It's electronics are all housed in the same cube as the display.

My GPI does not embed the electronics in the display module. They are on a separate board, and wires are run from that board to the display.

A plug and play solution would be ideal. It would be ideal if everything were available at the onboard computer and could tap into that with one connector. The next approximation to that, would be to make mating connectors for all the locations that do have the signals we want. Unfortunately, they are spread over two large connectors. If you could get the connector pair, you could build a nice loom to plug in between, but I imagine that it's easier to tap into 4 signal wires than it is to wire up an entire harness.

RE: Clutch handle shims ... it's worth a look at yours to see how much gap there is between the clutch handle and the switch plunger. I folded paper and cut it to size to build my first shim, just to get me in the right ball park. I then 3D printed 3 shims until I found a size that worked to my satisfaction, ending up at a total shim size with tape of 1.5mm.

Joel
 
Helitronix said:
but I imagine that it's easier to tap into 4 signal wires than it is to wire up an entire harness.
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With you on that.


it's worth a look at yours to see how much gap there is between the clutch handle and the switch plunger. I folded paper and cut it to size to build my first shim, just to get me in the right ball park.
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Thanks! I'll do the same. No 3D printing but I can whittle up something.
 
I received my second revision circuit boards a few days ago and built the GPI with those revisions. Everything there worked as intended. Then I decided it would be fun if I gave myself a more accurate digital speedometer, so I added a 4 digit display to the GPI to replace the 1-digit display. I modified the software to display the current gear in the left most digit, then dedicated the right 3 digits to the speed. When the speed is under 100 mph, (which for me will be always), the hundreds digit is extinguished, so the display really has a space between the gear position and the 2-digit speed.

I provided provisions for driving an I2C controlled 4-digit 7-segment display, such as this one: https://www.adafruit.com/products/878

So I made a few code edits to calculate the speed based on the wheel speed sensor. In my case, I found that it was VSS frequency in HZ * 23.95 to get MPH. After rounding it to the nearest whole number, it gives me a speed readout that updates 10 times per second and matches my GPS indicated speed quite well. Sometimes the GPS speed actually lags behind the actual speed, so the GPI speedometer arrives at the correct speed before the GPS does. But then the GPS converges on the actual speed. It's pretty neat.

I thought that having a digital speedometer on the GPS was great, and always liked that, because it showed the correct speed, and it was easy enough to read. However, I thought that it would be even easier to read if it was displayed in a larger font. The GPI Speedo provides me with digits I can now easily see at a glance.

This evening, I started playing with building a digital tachometer to display underneath the GPI / Speedo (adding software and another display, keeping the basic PCB the same). I don't know if I'll actually build a physical display head unit with 2 x 4 digit 7-segment displays or not, but it was fun to play around. I was toying around with using an OLED graphical display to display all of this information, or even just a small display to provide a graphical representation of the tach, but I'm not sure if I'll bother to do that. The GPI hardware would support it, as there are a variety of OLED graphical displays that interface over I2C, the same bus I'm using for the 4-digit display. I just haven't decided if I wish to continue playing with it, or complete my display box and put this project to rest.

I'll make the "GPI Speedo" software available too, so if someone wants to build that version (same PCB) they can do that.

I haven't taken a look at how to post the source code here yet - but I can certainly just host it on my website and provide a link to it here. I'll take care of posting it here, somehow, soon.

If you want a circuit board, let me know.

Joel
 
I have posted the source code to my web site. You can download the full source archive, here: http://www.helitronix.com\gpi\gpi_source_v1.2.zip This version of the archive implements the GPI with all the features I've already listed, but does not include the modifications to turn it into a speedometer. I will post that separately.

There are 6 source files in the archive:

GPI_FULL-1.2.spin - The main program that I wrote that implements the gear position indicator
Float32.spin - A library routine that implements floating point math utility functions
Simple_Serial.spin - A library routine that implements serial port functionality. This is helpful for seeing the output on your laptop while debugging. Debug messages are still enabled in the source code.
Synth.spin - A library routine that implements the frequency synthesizer that is used to output VSS and IPG signals to another GPI when the clutch is pulled in.
Timing.spin - A library routine that implements some delay functions.
xTach.spin - A library routine that reads the VSS and IPG input signals and measures their frequency in Hz.

To build the software, you need to download and install the Propeller Development Environment for Windows (or download the Mac version as desired). Download the development environment here: https://www.parallax.com/downloads/propeller-tool-software-windows Follow the instructions given to install the environment.

Once you have the environment installed, you can copy the source files in my ZIP archive to a working directory of your choice. From within the Propeller Development Environment, choose "File->Open" and select "GPI_FULL-1.2.spin". After it loads, you press the function key "F8" to build the software. Provided you have installed the software successfully, the build will be successful. If no error is displayed, you'll see a dialog with two buttons "Close" and "Show Hex". You can press "Close".

Once you have your Propeller Quick Start Board, you plug that into your computer using a standard USB cable. The USB cable provides power. It will be recognized by the Propeller tool once you plug it in. To program the software onto the Propeller Quick Start board, press the function key "F11". It will take a few seconds. If it fails, the tool will describe the error. Once it programs, you can unplug the Quick Start Board from your computer and connect it to the other components of the GPI. You can actually build the whole GPI and program it at the end. The device may be programmed and reprogrammed at any time, even when it is connected to your motorcycle. In fact, in order to see the debug output from a running system, you would need to have your laptop connected to the GPI device over USB while your ST is running. It's not necessary to do this if you don't want to see the debugging information.

Joel
 
I decided to make a case for the 4-digit display. I had an ABS plastic box that I started with. Then I machined a red acrylic top to replace the metal top that came with the case. I mounted my display inside and added a RAM ball to the back. Then mounted it next to my GPS. Here's what the completed install looks like as of this afternoon.

131d5884d3a195d0313b5db4b3e901f8.jpg
 
That looks pretty nice! After reading your posts the Digi looks more and more to be my speed! :rofl1:
 
Helitronix said:
I decided to make a case for the 4-digit display. I had an ABS plastic box that I started with. Then I machined a red acrylic top to replace the metal top that came with the case. I mounted my display inside and added a RAM ball to the back. Then mounted it next to my GPS. Here's what the completed install looks like as of this afternoon.

131d5884d3a195d0313b5db4b3e901f8.jpg
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Joel - that looks absolutely great! I want one just like that - I'll be right over.

Pete
 
Did the $25 unit from China last Friday. Bought it a while ago, just got around to doing it.

Easy enough install - tapped 4 of the 6 connections at the instrument connector (solder and shrinkwrap), ran a cable back to the underside of the seat on right side to get the ignition pulse, left the program wire open (taped).

Everything worked first try, still need to find the permanent mounting spot, but may just keep it at the top of the cluster on the left side where I passed through the cable through the existing vent hole. Happy with the result, hopefully it lasts..... hard to beat the price.
 
Just wondering, I'm not a wiring/electronics guy at all, I purchased one of the cheap chinese plug and play GPIs for my wife's bike, a 2014 Honda CTX 700, real easy install, works great and about $150 cheaper than ones from the states. I was hoping to get one for my 2005 ST1300ABS, but I notice the plug and play ones are listed for the 2008-2012 STs, I assume they won't work with my 2005? If I buy the one with separate wires, will that work on my 2005? And if so, which wires go where? Keep in mind the wiring has to be pretty simple for me, regards, Al.
 
pdfruth said:
I'm glad someone still finds any of the information in this thread useful... much less nearly ten years after it all started.
By all means, carry on.


I've had good luck with the enclosures from PolyCase. For example, I've used the P-1218TX for this same application.
A sheet of red acrylic, like this one on ebay, comes in handy as a basis from which to fabricate a display mask.
Click to expand...
Wow, so much teck and info, most above my pay grade. I envy your skill. Are you still doing the GPI? I would love one. I read up to page 5 out of 9 and skimmed the rest. I'm a nuts and bolts guy that is good with 12v but none of the electronic stuff. I likely could install in the panel but rather not start cutting up any panel.
I'd love to adj my Speedo but not if it changes my odometer.
Your GPI, have one to sell? How much? Either way thank you for posting all that info for us mortals, says something about your good character. I hope to hear from you soon, take care, Dave.
 
Dave.David said:
Your GPI, have one to sell? How much?
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Sorry Dave, I don't.

Dave.David said:
I'd love to adj my Speedo but not if it changes my odometer.
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That's just not possible. Both the speed-o and the tach-o indicators are derived from the vehicle speed sensor. If the speed sensor's output is adjusted (as is required to make the speed-o accurate) it effects both of em.
 
Hi, guys. I own ST 1300 only one week, but I own two more bike and I know exactly which gear I have without gear indicator. Installing gear indicator is great job, but biker easy can feel gear position of his bike only watching RPM on tachometer. I'm right or not?
 
Alex said:
I'm right or not?
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Your validation notwithstanding many of us like the convenience of a GPI- an instant glance vs a mental manipulation of RPM and MPH or checking the gear shift lever.

My V65S had a GPI and I loved it. I'd be tempted to put one on my ST if it operated flawlessly as did my V65's unit. Some guys are happy without one. Everybody's got a choice.
 
Popgun said:
I have a GiPro gear indicator on my ST
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I just took a look at HealTech's site and saw the GiPro DS series GPI. It looks to be PnP. Is it? Where is the diagnostic port that it plugs into? I like this idea.


V65S owners: do you remember what Honda's GPI showed when in Neutral?



Addendum: I found the installation instructions:
https://healtech-electronics.com/docs/GPDS-H02_Manual_en.pdf

Because the ST doesn't have a Gear Position Sensor it seems some calibration is involved and the indication either disappears or isn't accurate when the clutch is pulled in. I think I could live with that.
 
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