what liquid you use should not really matter. Once carb is already set and you are synching the other 3 to it. As long as the same substance is used in all 4 columns you will get a good sync.
but ATF has a specific gravity lower than water, so the column would be even higher than if you used water.
Please Google "homemade carb sync tool". There are many versions out there. I think if you look at the fact that they show the DIFFERENCE in relative vacuum, things will be a little clearer. The lower specific gravity, the more relative difference is easily shown. I used ATF in my home made unit and restrictors to minimize the bounce in the tubing. With Hg, the bounce is less noticeable (have that unit too). Some use two stroke oil, compressor oil.....there are many possibilities. Most pick a fluid that won't damage the motor in the event of a leakage causing ingestion. Hung the tubing on a stepladder, works like a charm, honest~!
P.S. The joke was understood
OK, yes I understand about relative vacuum and absolute vacuum, so now I understand that's what you were talking about. In the original context we were talking about an absolute vacuum gauge setup, and you never mentioned differential pressure in your original post, so it wasn't clear that was what you meant. Yes, I'm familiar with all the concepts, but never actually built a homemade tool.
One question about using relative vacuum, you want to enable the vacuum from two cylinders into the hose at the exact same time so that you don't suck the fluid into the engine before the vacuum balance is established. When you start the bike with the vacuum lines attached is that usually safe enough that it doesn't suck any fluid into the engine?
One question about using relative vacuum, you want to enable the vacuum from two cylinders into the hose at the exact same time so that you don't suck the fluid into the engine before the vacuum balance is established. When you start the bike with the vacuum lines attached is that usually safe enough that it doesn't suck any fluid into the engine?
This is the wrong tool to use for synchronizing carbs on a Honda ST1100. Honda wants the relative NOT the absolute vacuum levels to be measured. You must see all FOUR carb vac levels simultaneously and compare them to each other. A multichannel manometer (such as by Motion Pro) is the correct tool to use for speed, accuracy and compliance with OEM (Honda) requirements.
Yeah, but to do so you'll have to remove lid and filter, thus already messing up airflow, pressures and volumes...I fail to see how using a Flowmeter is not giving the "relative" levels, since the device IS inserted into each air horn with the engine running...
Bottom line is . . . . RESULTS.
To continue, we should include oil preference and best tires here~!
Have you ever synchronized carbs on a motorcycle engine?I fail to see how using a Flowmeter is not giving the "relative" levels, since the device IS inserted into each air horn with the engine running at the same RPM and all four cylinders read the same after adjustment, but whatever works for you is always your choice.
Well, being a biped creature not having derived from insects I do face an haptics issue with the flow meter... ;-)...you must be able to see the relative vacuum levels of ALL FOUR CARBS simultaneously.
Well, being a biped creature not having derived from insects I do face an haptics issue with the flow meter... ;-)
Not that I'd tried that bugger (out of interest), but it a) requires at least one other person being busy swapping the instrument between the snorkels and b) did a re-check with a 'real' 4-channel carb sync tool and closed air-box reveal offsets...
I however do see issues with a liquid filled carb meter getting the fluid getting sucked out (like when having to restart the engine after a required cooling down phase, or operating the throttle to clear the throttle plate linkages after every adjustment step...)
I'm very happy with the older version of a Vacuummate ; being bike powered it also features an accurate tachometer, aiding the process.
Next on my list/shelf is the Morgan Carbtune; reasonable priced, quite accurate and not using liquids also fully safe to operate.
#1, #3 & #4 need to be adjusted towards the fixed mains carb #2; the puzzle is that i.e. any change on #4 will influence #1 & #2 and vice versa, thus requiring constant matching on all 3 adjusters, done careful, handling a flash-light and the extra long #2 Philips as the linkages are pressure sensitive, followed by a minor blip on the throttle to free any tension in the actuation.
For a total accurate setting, including equal idle mixture on all 4 cyl, I'd really like to have a quality emission sniffer and appropriate ports welded into the downpipes... yet I still failed to motivate myself into this expense...
Possible that a glass-plug, like the Colortune is a useful instrument for this, but also that means spending some cash for an equipment you'll rarely use...
Have you ever synchronized carbs on a motorcycle engine?
Have you ever read the procedure in the Honda ST1100 service manual?
The carb sync adjustment screws adjust throttle plate relative position between TWO carbs, like carb #1 and carb #2.
As I said before, you must be able to see the relative vacuum levels of ALL FOUR CARBS simultaneously.
This can be done with a four channel manometer (such as from Motion Pro).
It is IMPOSSIBLE to do this with any kind of an air flow meter.
IMHO
OK . . . time to give it a rest Tim. Since coming here you have had one tone in all your posts - my way or the highway. I, for one, am getting tired of it.
Irregardless of your impression, he IS absolutely correct in this case. Carb syncs on multicarb scoots IS done with all intake in place as it is normally ridden. Absolutely CANNOT be done correctly unless all four cyl. vacuums can be seen at same time. Also, between adjustments when bike is off, it IS important to snap the throttle several times to seat adjustment screw threads, repeating this process and re-checking sync several times IS necessary in order to have same vacuum across all four intakes. Sorry that the Flo-Meter is 'snake oil' at best........for THIS application. It definitely has its uses........this is NOT one of them.
READ MY LIPS . . . I'm quite happy with my Flowmeter results. Have been so with the same bike for 18 years, carbs never touched otherwise. You ace mechanics can do whatever you want with your bikes.
There is no such "tone" in my posts. This is a false accusation. You have not answered my two relevant questions.OK . . . time to give it a rest Tim. Since coming here you have had one tone in all your posts - my way or the highway. I, for one, am getting tired of it.
"the Flo-Meter is 'snake oil' at best..." I never thought about this! So this problem is actually WORSE than I thought. I didn't realize that this was such a common mistake!Irregardless of your impression, he IS absolutely correct in this case. Carb syncs on multicarb scoots IS done with all intake in place as it is normally ridden. Absolutely CANNOT be done correctly unless all four cyl. vacuums can be seen at same time. Also, between adjustments when bike is off, it IS important to snap the throttle several times to seat adjustment screw threads, repeating this process and re-checking sync several times IS necessary in order to have same vacuum across all four intakes. Sorry that the Flo-Meter is 'snake oil' at best........for THIS application. It definitely has its uses........this is NOT one of them.