ST-1300 Saddle Bag Crash Protectors

[dduelin]

I have been struggling to find a suitable set. I emailed bygdwag several times but no reply and the Bike-Quip site notes they are out of Stock. Also both are kind of pricey .
The GL 1800 seem to be a good option provided I can successfully manipulate to fit. I am pretty handy, so don't think it would be a big problem. Can you tell me two things - 1. can you reuse the old bolts or do you have to get longer ones ? 2. when you say you squeezed them together and held them with a hose clamp - I assume they would not hold the shape and tend to spring back? so you hold proper spacing with clamp until mounted? do you think there is a way to bend them to the proper shape so they are not "spring loaded" on the mounting bolts?

There is always this option with GL 1800 bars with adaptor plate. just trying to figure out if I should just get the adaptor plate or wrestle with the bars to fit

HONDA ST1300 Motorcycle Crash Bars Saddlebag Guards Flat Black All Years | eBay

These are lightly used OEM (Honda factory) take-off bars removed from a Honda Gold Wing GL 1800 or F6B, which have been powder-coated flat black and fitted with a special adapter plate and hardware allowing them to be mounted to the Honda ST1300.

www.ebay.com

Yes, the hose clamp holds the ends of the bars the correct distance apart to line up with the bolt holes in the step. There's a bit of trial and error involved but nothing a try or three doesn't accomplish and yes you need longer bolts.

 

[Sadlsor]

I have been struggling to find a suitable set. I emailed bygdwag several times but no reply and the Bike-Quip site notes they are out of Stock. Also both are kind of pricey .
The GL 1800 seem to be a good option provided I can successfully manipulate to fit. I am pretty handy, so don't think it would be a big problem. Can you tell me two things - 1. can you reuse the old bolts or do you have to get longer ones ? 2. when you say you squeezed them together and held them with a hose clamp - I assume they would not hold the shape and tend to spring back? so you hold proper spacing with clamp until mounted? do you think there is a way to bend them to the proper shape so they are not "spring loaded" on the mounting bolts?
<SNIP>

1. I too, tried to contact bygdawg. I decided not to wait, and contacted Red Dirt Cowboy. Yes you need longer bolts. RDC hooked me up, for less than the link to ebay that you shared.
NO trial and error, just one-and-done.

2. Trial and error? With tubular steel? And does anyone besides me think there's a really good chance of weakening the steel bars that you are then expecting to hold up in a tipover or a crash?
Your link to the ebay site shows $170 for the bars alone.
But I got adapter plates, shipped to me, for about $60 and then bought the take-off GoldWing bag protectors from a trike company. The bars were about $35 or so.
The adapter plates - INCLUDING the proper-length bolts - came from @red dirt cowboy from his link in the For Sale > Vendors forum. Here's the link:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/th...0-adapter-plates-and-hardware-53-ship.158379/

I didn't use any trial and error - only the instructions that RDC includes with his adapter plates.
And no fussing with a slipping / misadjusted subframe, either.
The way I see it, this is MUCH simpler!
I hope this helps.

 

[Kevcules]

NO trial and error, just one-and-done.

2. Trial and error? With tubular steel? And does anyone besides me think there's a really good chance of weakening the steel bars that you are then expecting to hold up in a tipover or a crash?

I didn't use any trial and error - only the instructions that RDC includes with his adapter plates.
And no fussing with a slipping / misadjusted subframe, either.
The way I see it, this is MUCH simpler!
I hope this helps.

No.....slightly compressing the tubular steel to line up the mounting holes doesn't compromise them at all. That's foolish. The job took less than an hour to complete. No big deal. You can always ask a female rider to help you if you call this job "man handling"

Most everyone on this site works on their own bikes and enjoy it. If you want "easy" all the time, bring it to someone else to do the work. Doing that is definitely simple and easy.

I like the fact that most on here find their own solutions to popular problems and usually with cost effective ways. That's why these forums exist!
I learned about this mod and spoke with knowledgeable guys like Dduelin and Andrew Shadow. (there are many helpful others also)
These ideas are very inexpensive options to the same outcome. Choose your own path to the same result. This was as easy and simple as it gets.
Great site!

 

[dduelin]

1. I too, tried to contact bygdawg. I decided not to wait, and contacted Red Dirt Cowboy. Yes you need longer bolts. RDC hooked me up, for less than the link to ebay that you shared.
NO trial and error, just one-and-done.

2. Trial and error? With tubular steel? And does anyone besides me think there's a really good chance of weakening the steel bars that you are then expecting to hold up in a tipover or a crash?
Your link to the ebay site shows $170 for the bars alone.
But I got adapter plates, shipped to me, for about $60 and then bought the take-off GoldWing bag protectors from a trike company. The bars were about $35 or so.
The adapter plates - INCLUDING the proper-length bolts - came from @red dirt cowboy from his link in the For Sale > Vendors forum. Here's the link:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/th...0-adapter-plates-and-hardware-53-ship.158379/

I didn't use any trial and error - only the instructions that RDC includes with his adapter plates.
And no fussing with a slipping / misadjusted subframe, either.
The way I see it, this is MUCH simpler!
I hope this helps.

It's just that they are, well, let's just say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

In the scheme of adding farkles if fiddling with installing the GL1800 bars sans adapters is in any way complicated then back away from the vehicle and let a trained technican work on it for you.

 

[Sadlsor]

In the scheme of adding farkles if fiddling with installing the GL1800 bars sans adapters is in any way complicated then back away from the vehicle and let a trained technican work on it for you.

In the scheme of farkling, riding, and living my life, I have a plan. It's working just fine.
If I need help, I know I can ask here.
But I do appreciate your concern, Dave.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I have installed these Goldwing tip-over bars without the adapter plates. I do not believe that there is any danger of weakening the steel of the bars at all in my opinion. They are not being bent to the point where the steel deforms and kinks. They are only being compressed a slight amount to bring the two eyelets closer together. I don't remember, as it was a long time ago, but I don't think that it is even being compressed as much as an inch. They remain as strong as they originally were- plenty strong enough to hold the bike up in a tip-over and protect both the bike and someones legs.

In a crash, as in the bike goes sliding down the black-top, it is a crap shoot as to how much good they will do before they either bend and give way or are ground down and fail. The addition of the adapter plates does not change either of the above scenarios. Nor do they introduce any additional strength in to the bars that was not originally there. They remain hollow tubular steel bars. The adapter plates simply make the install a simpler job.

The intent of these tip-over bars is protection during a tip-over at stationary or very slow speeds, not during a crash at speed. If crash protection is the goal, these will not provide that no matter how they are installed. For crash protection, something much more robust is required such as the solid tubular steel bars that have reinforced three point attachment such as what is used on the police issue ST1300's.

However they are installed they look good on the bike and do provide more than adequate tip-over protection as intended. They make both a useful and cosmetically pleasing addition to the bike. No matter how a person chooses to install them, it is a worthwhile and cheap addition to the bike so install them and enjoy them.

 

[Tazzy]

1. I too, tried to contact bygdawg. I decided not to wait, and contacted Red Dirt Cowboy. Yes you need longer bolts. RDC hooked me up, for less than the link to ebay that you shared.
NO trial and error, just one-and-done.

2. Trial and error? With tubular steel? And does anyone besides me think there's a really good chance of weakening the steel bars that you are then expecting to hold up in a tipover or a crash?
Your link to the ebay site shows $170 for the bars alone.
But I got adapter plates, shipped to me, for about $60 and then bought the take-off GoldWing bag protectors from a trike company. The bars were about $35 or so.
The adapter plates - INCLUDING the proper-length bolts - came from @red dirt cowboy from his link in the For Sale > Vendors forum. Here's the link:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/th...0-adapter-plates-and-hardware-53-ship.158379/

I didn't use any trial and error - only the instructions that RDC includes with his adapter plates.
And no fussing with a slipping / misadjusted subframe, either.
The way I see it, this is MUCH simpler!
I hope this helps.

Thanks for the solid advice !!!

 

[Tazzy]

No.....slightly compressing the tubular steel to line up the mounting holes doesn't compromise them at all. That's foolish. The job took less than an hour to complete. No big deal. You can always ask a female rider to help you if you call this job "man handling"

Most everyone on this site works on their own bikes and enjoy it. If you want "easy" all the time, bring it to someone else to do the work. Doing that is definitely simple and easy.

I like the fact that most on here find their own solutions to popular problems and usually with cost effective ways. That's why these forums exist!
I learned about this mod and spoke with knowledgeable guys like Dduelin and Andrew Shadow. (there are many helpful others also)
These ideas are very inexpensive options to the same outcome. Choose your own path to the same result. This was as easy and simple as it gets.
Great site!

No worries, doubt I will need the wifes help I am no stranger to figuring it out. Just wondering how much they have to be bent really as it is impossible to tell from pictures and at some point would be impractical. I just finished making and installing this ram ball dash mount, and installing 12V outlet. Electronics tech by trade, carpenter, plumber, electrician and chef by necessity, there is noting I wont at least try

 

[TourNut]

I made these in my garage w/ 5/8" steel rod & 1/4" steel plate : During my 2015 accident , the bar bent some , but protected my legs & feet , mufflers , lower saddlebag pieces . I only had to bend it back some to fix the right side here :

 

[Sadlsor]

No worries, doubt I will need the wifes help I am no stranger to figuring it out. Just wondering how much they have to be bent really as it is impossible to tell from pictures and at some point would be impractical. I just finished making and installing this ram ball dash mount, and installing 12V outlet. Electronics tech by trade, carpenter, plumber, electrician and chef by necessity, there is noting I wont at least try

That looks not only functional, but attractive as well.
Did you get the inspiration from another DIY thread here? Looks really similar - and nicely done!

 

[Sadlsor]

I made these in my garage w/ 5/8" steel rod & 1/4" steel plate : During my 2015 accident , the bar bent some , but protected my legs & feet , mufflers , lower saddlebag pieces . I only had to bend it back some to fix the right side here :

That is some very, very nice welding and finishing.
Impressive!

 

[Tazzy]

looks like you have some serious skills!! Great job!! wish I could just purchase a set like this.

 

[Tazzy]

here is another pair I came across on the internet. looks like they make the stuff found on the ST1300 police bikes https://www.t-rex-racing.com/category-s/1533.htm

 

[Big Andy]

Could you please specify the size of subframe bolts and type used please so I can order 4. TIA.

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

Could you please specify the size of subframe bolts and type used please so I can order 4. TIA.

The length is the only choice depending on spacer or no spacer. M10x1.25

Tip Over Bar Tale | ST1300 Related

That title can mean so many different things... This case is for tip over bars from Bike-Quip https://www.st1300-accessories.co.uk/product-page/crash-bars-rear I had some defender or other up fitter bars that came off an older PA. I ground off the 3rd leg (to the rear pegs), sanded, and painted...

www.st-owners.com

 

[CruisingDog]

With a little finesse the Goldwing bars are a direct bolt-on installation and require no adapter plates of blocks. Besides a set of bars only four bolts 12mm x 40mm are required to replace the original allen cap screws. Designed to protect the 900 lb. Goldwing, they are plenty strong enough to do the same for the 730 lb. ST.

These give the most heel room to pillion riders and to my eye look exactly like bars Honda would have mounted if the ST1300 came with them. The bars are on eBay constantly for $25 to $50. Bolts at Lowe's.

Gl1800 Rear Crash Bars in Motorcycle & Scooter Parts & Accessories for sale | eBay

www.ebay.com

I’m curious which ones you got. These ones I viewed seem to have a bit in the middle. Are they the same as the ones you got ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/3053410637...IolvyfgHCsB2bYXLHwynaQW78w==|tkp:BFBMmpOdvK5k

 

[Andrew Shadow]

If I remember correctly the difference between the ones without the extra tabs and the ones with is the difference between the regular Goldwing vs the F6B version.
It is not a big deal. I had bars with that extra tab- you just cut them off.

 

[dduelin]

I’m curious which ones you got. These ones I viewed seem to have a bit in the middle. Are they the same as the ones you got ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/305341063777?_nkw=GL1800+rear+crash+bars&itmmeta=01J5SW7964D5CJMJ6T584EKY42&hash=item4717bee261:g:VsMAAOSw9NhkPm9V&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKmIILT5c0zW1l3bCuq8XRk7nqBJpnPdD1O1rNanmG9C17cwI1djKDDCM9C5TbOX78tiD4OaW1oXzop/Zl6RdnbQIO0Mf2SNe1eGHGkMLCpLyEURDsFBkNF4NDEorCP9cc0RBdjeBc/POxzMAix0h+dhVss0v+/I7WydUmp3+3isxnbGM9eNqQzucJ97YEDRyKb6DUKgOgrAMFVv0b/kSmY9gwz8TZr+FxpLANeCP3bCHq8lSWp1S5FmMRcFwqieB5rOMfeGlKtElZ35EbqGIolvyfgHCsB2bYXLHwynaQW78w==|tkp:BFBMmpOdvK5k

I can't remember as it was a long time ago. I believe that Andrew is correct in post #77.

 

[CruisingDog]

If I remember correctly the difference between the ones without the extra tabs and the ones with is the difference between the regular Goldwing vs the F6B version.
It is not a big deal. I had bars with that extra tab- you just cut them off.

Perfect. Thanks.