ST-1300 Saddle Bag Crash Protectors

Note the two bolts on each side that will attach the crash bar affix the rear subframe to the frame. The subframe supports the seat, luggage rack and rear cowl, taillight. etc. If both original bolts on one side are removed at the same time the subframe can sag down some and make it difficult to line up the holes while fiddling with the crash bar. Removing and replacing one bolt at a time prevents this.
 
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dduelin said:
Note the two bolts on each side that will attach the crash bar affix the rear subframe to the frame. The subframe supports the seat, luggage rack and rear cowl, taillight. etc. If both original bolts on one side are removed at the same time the subframe can sag down some and make it difficult to line up the holes while fiddling with the crash bar. Removing and replacing one bolt at a time prevents this.
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I fortunately did NOT remove both bolts at once.
The included instructions included with my set of adapters from @red dirt cowboy pointed this out.
Making the install about as painless as it can be.
Sometimes it's good to read instructions.
 
Sadlsor said:
....... Sometimes it's good to read instructions.
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If someone is installing a pair they purchased off eBay or from a trike shop and they aren't using adapter plates they won't have instructions. Just trying to be helpful.

I removed both bolts on one side and the subframe sagged a few millimeters. I had a bronze tapered drift that lined the holes back up but if I hadn't I would have been tempted to pry with a screw driver or something and bugger up the threads in the frame.
 
dduelin said:
If someone is installing a pair they purchased off eBay or from a trike shop and they aren't using adapter plates they won't have instructions. Just trying to be helpful.

I removed both bolts on one side and the subframe sagged a few millimeters. I had a bronze tapered drift that lined the holes back up but if I hadn't I would have been tempted to pry with a screw driver or something and bugger up the threads in the frame.
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Dave, I have no wish to highjack the thread. However, coincidentally I've been reading the Haynes Manual Section 5.3 regarding removing the brake pedal. As you know, one of the steps is removing the 4 footrest bracket bolts. There is no mention of the pitfalls you describe. Any thoughts why not and how would the deal with the removal?

Paul
 
St1300biker said:
Dave, I have no wish to highjack the thread. However, coincidentally I've been reading the Haynes Manual Section 5.3 regarding removing the brake pedal. As you know, one of the steps is removing the 4 footrest bracket bolts. There is no mention of the pitfalls you describe. Any thoughts why not and how would the deal with the removal?

Paul
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Paul,

The threaded holes for the two subframe bolts go all the way through the frame. Just cogitating on it you might could remove one and then thread it back in from the inside just far enough to hold the two parts in place. I don’t have an ST to go look at but I’m pretty sure you can access the threaded holes from the inside by reaching through the opening above the right side pannier lower mount.
 
dduelin said:
Paul,

The threaded holes for the two subframe bolts go all the way through the frame. Just cogitating on it you might could remove one and then thread it back in from the inside just far enough to hold the two parts in place. I don’t have an ST to go look at but I’m pretty sure you can access the threaded holes from the inside by reaching through the opening above the right side pannier lower mount.
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Good idea, but if the purpose of removing the bolts is to remove the footrest bracket itself, would it still work??

Paul
 
St1300biker said:
Good idea, but if the purpose of removing the bolts is to remove the footrest bracket itself, would it still work??

Paul
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Yes, the original bolts are hex head bolts whose heads are recessed into the step plate. The step plate isn’t threaded. You just want to thread one of the bolts back into the subframe/frame to keep those parts in place.
 
Good point, Dave - as I purchased my adapter plates first, and @red dirt cowboy *DID* include the cautionary tale about the misalignment issue, I dodged a bullet there. On any given day, I would have fallen into that trap, allowed the subframe to slide down an inch or six, and spent an inordinate and unnecessary amount of extra time learning the old-fashioned way:
Trial and error.
These days, on the downhill side of 50, I prefer leveraging OPE* whenever possible.
I simply don't have enough time left here, to make all the possible mistakes myself. :rofl1:

*Other Peoples' Experience
 
dduelin said:
With a little finesse the Goldwing bars are a direct bolt-on installation and require no adapter plates of blocks. Besides a set of bars only four bolts 12mm x 40mm are required to replace the original allen cap screws. Designed to protect the 900 lb. Goldwing, they are plenty strong enough to do the same for the 730 lb. ST.

These give the most heel room to pillion riders and to my eye look exactly like bars Honda would have mounted if the ST1300 came with them. The bars are on eBay constantly for $25 to $50. Bolts at Lowe's.
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Same here Dave.....Goldwing bars off ebay, no adapters. Adapters are probably easier, but not necessary.
 

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As I recall, when I removed the bolts and the bike sagged a bit, all I had to do was lift at the back of the seat to realign things,, wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be when I saw the bike sag down..
 
By "finesse", do you mean BENDING steel bars and stuff?
If so, that ain't "finesse" -- that's brutal manhandling, right there. ;)
 
I just recently purchased a set of the red dirt cowboy bars and adapter plates and am having an issue (not with the product but maybe my bike)-

The left side went on fine but when I tried to do the right side I cannot for the life of me get the bottom bolt screwed in all the way.

I know the newer bolt is longer but it seems like the threads (on the sub-frame) or something are not right. I checked both bolts and both are the same. I ran a tap through and it seems to go through fine, I'm also sure that everything is lined up and all seems well there too.

I can even screw the bolt in from the back side and even screwing it in that way it gets REALLY hard to screw it in when I get about half-way. It gets so hard that I am afraid that I am going to break the bolt.

Has anyone else had this issue?
 
In the interest of giving riders more choices, here on the one's I have. I drop test them "regularly" and can attest to the fact they are stout! They also come in black which is what STacy runs.
MC Enterprises USA are the makers. They're not a "stocked" item but I'm sure they still have the jigs to outfit your ride.

sideguardbag1_big.jpg
 
AZMotorgod said:
I just recently purchased a set of the red dirt cowboy bars and adapter plates and am having an issue (not with the product but maybe my bike)-

The left side went on fine but when I tried to do the right side I cannot for the life of me get the bottom bolt screwed in all the way.

I know the newer bolt is longer but it seems like the threads (on the sub-frame) or something are not right. I checked both bolts and both are the same. I ran a tap through and it seems to go through fine, I'm also sure that everything is lined up and all seems well there too.

I can even screw the bolt in from the back side and even screwing it in that way it gets REALLY hard to screw it in when I get about half-way. It gets so hard that I am afraid that I am going to break the bolt.

Has anyone else had this issue?
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Probably a stupid comment on my part, but have you checked the thread pitch of the bolt?

Paul
 
AZMotorgod said:
I can even screw the bolt in from the back side and even screwing it in that way it gets REALLY hard to screw it in when I get about half-way. It gets so hard that I am afraid that I am going to break the bolt.

Has anyone else had this issue?
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Wow, sorry.
My RDC adapters went on with no issues at all, and I have nowhere near the experience at wrenching on or modifying these bikes as many others here.
My set were literally plug 'n play.
But it seems something may be amiss, as to your comment about difficulty using the bolt from either direction - seems like the subframe shifting down is not a component of this equation.
 
one of my bolt threads was messed up on both my bikes, and I think it happened to a lot of people here..
I ended up rethreading to the next larger sae size.
 
aniwack said:
Is this what @fixitup2 is looking for?
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No, I doubt it.
I don't believe the adapters machined by @red dirt cowboy fit that 3-anchor style. His will fit the stock guards off the 'Wing, from 07 to 13 model years, or something like that.
The ones I got from him only use 2 longer bolts (supplied with the adapters) on each side, and i had no issue at all.
 
dduelin said:
The bolt holes do need to be slightly enlarged and the ends of the bars need to be drawn slightly closer together to line up the bolt holes with the recessed holes in the step. The method that those of us that mounted them like this is to use a padded vise to squeeze the bar ends slightly together then tighten a large hose clamp around it to hold the bar ends the correct distance apart. There's a bit of trial and error with re-squeezing a couple of times after trial fitting before both holes line up.
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I have been struggling to find a suitable set. I emailed bygdwag several times but no reply and the Bike-Quip site notes they are out of Stock. Also both are kind of pricey :).
The GL 1800 seem to be a good option provided I can successfully manipulate to fit. I am pretty handy, so don't think it would be a big problem. Can you tell me two things - 1. can you reuse the old bolts or do you have to get longer ones ? 2. when you say you squeezed them together and held them with a hose clamp - I assume they would not hold the shape and tend to spring back? so you hold proper spacing with clamp until mounted? do you think there is a way to bend them to the proper shape so they are not "spring loaded" on the mounting bolts?

There is always this option with GL 1800 bars with adaptor plate. just trying to figure out if I should just get the adaptor plate or wrestle with the bars to fit :)
www.ebay.com

HONDA ST1300 Motorcycle Crash Bars Saddlebag Guards Flat Black All Years | eBay

These are lightly used OEM (Honda factory) take-off bars removed from a Honda Gold Wing GL 1800 or F6B, which have been powder-coated flat black and fitted with a special adapter plate and hardware allowing them to be mounted to the Honda ST1300.
www.ebay.com
 
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