ST-1300 Saddle Bag Crash Protectors

fixitup2

Ride now, no excuses
Joined
Sep 11, 2019
Messages
16
Age
72
Location
Thousand Oaks, CA USA
Bike
ST-1300 / ST1100 /Ha
Haven't posted or asked questions in a while. Anyone have any knowledge on the saddle bag crash protectors for the ST1300. I understand it is made up of the bag protectors taken from the Goldwing that have been converted to a trike.
 
You are correct. And a guy named Bygdawg here also makes them out of solid rod. I believe his cost a bit over $200. IIRC, they are 1/2" or 5/8" rod welded to a flat plate. He includes longer stainless allen head bolts for installation. I can attest to how sturdy they are. The GW variant are hollow (probably) thick wall steel tubing and are probably cheaper - assuming they are available. You can find the former ones by searching for other discussions in the search box. Try "tip over guards" and "bygdawg".
 
If you only ride one up as I do, there is a company called T-Rex that makes luggage protector bars (crash bars) for the ST1300. They have three mounting points, one of which takes the place of the rear foot peg like the police model ST's have. The quality of the bars are excellent but I do have one issue with them. You have to remove the center stand handle (which is just a spring and a pin) to get the left side cover off in order to get at your fuse panel.
 
I made up a set of the adapter plates to mount the GW bars ( the dimensioned drawing was available from a post on the forum), and it worked out very well. Got the used GW bars on eBay for 20$. Wife ( who doesn’t ride much anyway) complains that it makes getting on the bike tougher , but they work well.
 
I made up a set of the adapter plates to mount the GW bars ( the dimensioned drawing was available from a post on the forum), and it worked out very well. Got the used GW bars on eBay for 20$. Wife ( who doesn’t ride much anyway) complains that it makes getting on the bike tougher , but they work well.
I could put all the things my wife doesn't complain about on a 3M post it note and for some reason I don't remember it being that way 35 years ago when we were dating.:rofl1: The way I look at it, you saved yourself a bunch of money fabricating your own adapter, picking up used bars for $20, eliminating the potential of having to replace costly plastic on your bike in the event of a mishap, and you increased her safety by installing bars to protect her legs and feet. Great job!
 
This is what they look like once installed
 

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With a little finesse the Goldwing bars are a direct bolt-on installation and require no adapter plates of blocks. Besides a set of bars only four bolts 12mm x 40mm are required to replace the original allen cap screws. Designed to protect the 900 lb. Goldwing, they are plenty strong enough to do the same for the 730 lb. ST.

These give the most heel room to pillion riders and to my eye look exactly like bars Honda would have mounted if the ST1300 came with them. The bars are on eBay constantly for $25 to $50. Bolts at Lowe's.


 
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With a little finesse the Goldwing bars are a direct bolt-on installation and require no adapter plates of blocks. Besides a set of bars only four bolts 12mm x 40mm are required to replace the original allen cap screws. These give the most heel room to pillion riders and to my eye look exactly like bars Honda would have mounted if the ST1300 came with them. The bars are on eBay constantly for $25 to $50. Bolts at Lowe's.


Did you have to open up the mounting holes or twist on the bars at all?
 
The bolt holes do need to be slightly enlarged and the ends of the bars need to be drawn slightly closer together to line up the bolt holes with the recessed holes in the step. The method that those of us that mounted them like this is to use a padded vise to squeeze the bar ends slightly together then tighten a large hose clamp around it to hold the bar ends the correct distance apart. There's a bit of trial and error with re-squeezing a couple of times after trial fitting before both holes line up.
 
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You are correct. And a guy named Bygdawg here also makes them out of solid rod. I believe his cost a bit over $200. IIRC, they are 1/2" or 5/8" rod welded to a flat plate. He includes longer stainless allen head bolts for installation. I can attest to how sturdy they are. The GW variant are hollow (probably) thick wall steel tubing and are probably cheaper - assuming they are available. You can find the former ones by searching for other discussions in the search box. Try "tip over guards" and "bygdawg".
Thanks for the information.
 
I made up a set of the adapter plates to mount the GW bars ( the dimensioned drawing was available from a post on the forum), and it worked out very well. Got the used GW bars on eBay for 20$. Wife ( who doesn’t ride much anyway) complains that it makes getting on the bike tougher , but they work well.
I ride 2 up on my ST1300 and rider only on my ST-1100. Will the same work for the 1100
 
I bought the bars from bygdawg.com. Very strong but if carrying passenger they get in the way.

Just received the GL1500 style pair from Bike-Quip - £145 + shipping. https://www.st1300-accessories.co.uk/

They come, not chromed, but painted to match silver frame of ST. I have over-coated them myself to give them a smooth finish.

I will post pictures when fitted.

I plan to keep the bygdawg bars as spares.

Paul
 
I will post pictures when fitted.

Here is my comparison of the bars from bygdwag.com and Bike-Quip in that order:-

Weight - 953/653g

Price inc shipping to US - $235/[£145+shipping] - Bike-Quip much cheaper in UK inc shipping

Solid - Yes/No, hollow tubes

Instructions - provided/ download from site

Finish - Gloss/ Primed

Colour - Black/Silver

Interference for Passenger - Yes/ No

Summary:- In my humble opinion, the Bygdawg bars are stronger, but cause interference issues unless riding solo.

N.B If you draw a line from the front crash bar to the rear and beyond, both brands appear to protect the panniers. However, whether they do in practice depends on how your bike falls, so bear this in mind before buying.

Paul
 

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I can tell you the T-Rex style crash bars, which are almost identical to the ones installed on police bikes ( 3 mounting points), have with stood every collision I've seen at both high and slow speeds with minimal to no damage to the panniers as long as the bike slides and doesn't high side. The front guards also stand up very well in a collision, but you have to drill your fairing to install them. Obviously a crash bar with a triangulated mounting system is going to be stronger than a bi-mount system, but I'm going to leave that discussion for one of the engineers on this forum to explain scientifically:thumb:
 
Which would be more likely to pass impact forces into the bike frame and break the aluminum step and/or bend the frame vs deforming slightly and absorbing some energy?
 
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