What is a "speed handle", how do I know if the aftermarket handle on my ST is a "speed handle" or not.
Do they come with a different master cylinder to generate less hydraulic pressure than OEM's?
Thanks.
I asked this question in a For Sale thread.What is a "speed handle", how do I know if the aftermarket handle on my ST is a "speed handle" or not.
Do they come with a different master cylinder to generate less hydraulic pressure than OEM's?
Thanks.
I'm fairly certain that there is not fulcrum adjustment on the ASV lever. It should be a shorter lever, but not one that affects the pull. I'm not a fan of the company, but they do make good levers that are designed well. I have never seen an issue where a proper application ASV lever has placed any pressure against the M/C piston in it's neutral position.Never heard of a speed handle, but I'm betting it's an adjustable or otherwise short pull lever so it's quicker to actuate. You just want to make sure that it's not pulling the clutch slightly when at rest, and that it completely disengages when the handle is fully pulled in.
I asked this question in a For Sale thread.
I'm assuming he means lever.
That was very thoughtful of you! Unfortunately, it's not my bike, or I'd likely have ended up keeping itI started a thread to avoid going off topic and distracting from the sale of your beautiful bike. Would like to understand if there are implications with my own aftermarket lever.
Same here.
Agreed! However, I've run aftermarket performance clutch and brake levers on a multitude of bikes from different manufacturers (Honda included) with nary a problem in fit, finish and/or performance. That said, I try to avoid all Chinese knock-offs or even Chinese-made motorcycle parts, when possible.
Are you referring to this?And yet you ride Ducati’s
Just joking, the only two ducks I’ve owned were a GT750 sport and a mustard yellow 450 single.
HOLY SPAGGIARI/SMART, BATMAN!!1974 750 SS (senior moment) not the GT.
I let that slip through my fingers for a Laverda Jota, stupidly of youth.
I understand what you are saying, but I believe this to be inaccurate. Hydraulic clutch M/C's operate similar to front brake M/C's. The larger the piston, the easier the pull and the shorter the stroke necessary to displace the same amount of hydraulic fluid or mineral oil in the case of many Magura clutch M/C's. The displacement of the fluid will cause the slave cylinder to move a certain amount, engaging or disengaging the clutch. In this case, the piston is not being changed... the lever is simply shorter than a standard length (which technically is harder to pull as the force is distributed over two fingers vs. four). If the lever is designed correctly (and IME, ASV does so) the lever actuation if pretty much the same, and I'd bet good money that the pivot profile is the same as well). If the clutch M/C piston is displaced the same amount with the aftermarket lever and the OEM lever, why would steel and friction plates not separate as far? I'm no engineer, nor am I a physicist, but what you're saying doesn't make sense.From the other thread:
I believe he's referring to leverage and travel. A clutch lever that is easier to pull, as a matter of physics, cannot separate the plates as far, unless the lever can travel farther.
..... If the clutch M/C piston is displaced the same amount with the aftermarket lever and the OEM lever, why would steel and friction plates not separate as far?
FWIW, I change out more levers in a year than most riders touch in a lifetime, and I've never found this to be an issue. Perhaps there is a particular issue with this bike/combination? I've been wrong before...My question, precisely. Thanks.
I disagree: The larger the piston, the harder the pull and the shorter the stroke necessary to displace the same amount of hydraulic fluid . . .The larger the piston, the easier the pull and the shorter the stroke necessary to displace the same amount of hydraulic fluid or mineral oil in the case of many Magura clutch M/C's.
Agreed.The displacement of the fluid will cause the slave cylinder to move a certain amount, engaging or disengaging the clutch. In this case, the piston is not being changed... the lever is simply shorter than a standard length (which technically is harder to pull as the force is distributed over two fingers vs. four).
Agreed, if.If the lever is designed correctly (and IME, ASV does so) the lever actuation if pretty much the same, and I'd bet good money that the pivot profile is the same as well). If the clutch M/C piston is displaced the same amount with the aftermarket lever and the OEM lever, why would steel and friction plates not separate as far?
Correct, I "misspoke"... less line pressure.I disagree: The larger the piston, the harder the pull and the shorter the stroke necessary to displace the same amount of hydraulic fluid . . .