New to ST1300 ownership-- learning quickly about FI light and issues.... HELP!

Joined
Jun 4, 2021
Messages
5
Age
54
Location
Lufkin, TX
So I bought a beautiful, clean 2003 ST1300 with only 38,000 miles on it. Everything works and runs perfectly, except the dang FI light (I have read so much about on here) when I get to 4200rpm. I just replaced the sub harness hoping that was it. It wasn't.

So, my biggest question before I go any further is why do so many people say to look for a used ECU to swap? If it is an issue with the ST, why would another used ECU not have the same issue? It seems like an expensive risk.

Thoughts?
 
My thought is, I'm useless for lack of knowledge with this issue, but I've "read about it."
So, the REAL point here, is:
WELCOME to st-owners from Birmingham, AL!
(From your screen name, I guess you're into tennis, eh?)
 
Welcome aboard! I am somewhat familiar with the Fault Indicator issue, I bought my ST knowing it had the problem. I located a used ECM and that solved the problem. There was an issue with the 03-07 models with the wiring harness that goes to the left knock sensor getting burned due to heat from the exhaust, you might want to check that. It is the consensus of opinion, that usually code 25 or 26 is the ECM is at fault.
 
Someone in a recent thread swapped a police ecm for his bikes (i think it might have been an 1100?) primarily because the police units can be bought on ebay for around $100...way cheaper than a civilian model.
 
Thanks guys. Code is 25. 2 long and 5 short. I stripped it down and put in a new sub harness. All it did was teach me how to strip the bike and lose $180. LOL. I will look around for a used ECM and check the wires from the knock sensors in the meantime. I still struggle with the idea that a used ECM can solve it, if it is a common problem with ECM's going bad.... isn't that just trading around problems? Seems like Honda would have had a bug fix for this years ago. Thanks, and I will keep trying! And Sadlsor, yes, I am a HS coach and so riding motorcycles is my THERAPY. LOL
 
I have no experience of this, but have read many posts, and the Honda Service Manual.

I can offer some observations.

Code 25 indicates a knock sensor fault. Which one is unclear. I have a hand written note in my manual that I have read reports that fault codes for 25 and 26 have the left/right knock sensor confused. So check connectors to both.

3900 rpm for more than 10 seconds is the rate at which the system detects a fault in the knock sensors according to HSM.

The pre-amble to the FI section describes what happens when a fault is detected, the ECM uses pre-stored values ( rather than relying on info from the sensor) so that the engine can continue to run. The fault table shows that when faults 25/26 are reported the engine runs normally.

Pre 2008 models seem to be tuned to run on a weak fuel mixture. It knocks / pinks / pings lightly under load and hard acceleration. It says this is normal in the handbook, and my 2006 did it from new. However I found it got very much worse if the engine was hot, with certain fuels and with fuels containing any ethanol. I also found that it was better with 5w-40 / 10w-40 fully synth oil. 30 grade was much too thin when the engine got hot, and made the engine hotter and resulted in more engine knock.
(nb old dirty plugs can also cause knocking carbon build up can glow red hot which ignites the fuel mixture too early)

I wondered if your engine was actually knocking? Give it a treat and put a few tankfuls of high octane, zero ethanol fuel in there and put in some high quality fully synth oil. Also check out your air filter. Put in some injector cleaner in the fuel for a couple of tanks.

Do the checks on the sensors and the wiring, but if your engine isn't knocking, or you can eliminate the knocking in the way that I did, then maybe spending a fortune on a new ECM in the hope that it will cure the issue is a bit risky. The ECM 's stored values seem to be doing the job in keeping the engine running well. The idea of having the sensors is that if they detect engine knock, then the ECM can adjust settings to compensate. eg retard the ignition slightly, increase the fuel:air ratio slightly. If it isn't actually knocking, then the engine is running fine. On mine, the knock was nothing like the sound of a knock. It was more like the sound of a bunch of keys rattling in the fairing pocket. High pitched and always there tinkling away in the background when accelerating hard with a warmed engine.

As I say, I have no experience of the fault codes, but If the engine isn't actually knocking, then the fact that the sensors were not working to detect a knock wouldn't bother me unduly.

It would be interesting to get comments from someone who actually knows what they are talking about though - ie not me.
 
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I had the 26 code and I replaced the sub harness, right knock sensor, swapped knock sensor sides, cleaned the 5 way T, replaced the tubes to the T, tried a used but untested ECU and probably a few other things (I've got a pretty lengthy post about on here) over the course of several months working with Larry "Igofar" over the telephone. In the end I ended up buying a new OEM ECU and have not had a problem since 12/19 and 37k miles.

Good luck Coach but if I was a betting man I'll put money on it that the ECU is the problem.

Skip
 
Yep.... see that's what I am thinking. If I get a used ECU it may, or may not, have the same issue..... but I won't know until I buy one. At that point, it is too late. If it has the same issue as mine, I am a lot lighter in the wallet and have two bad ECU's. It is a crap shoot. I am wondering if manufacturers and Honda haven't gotten together in the past years and solved the issue in the ECU's and are now making new ones that work? Everything else in America is a racket, so it stands to reason that they quietly fixed the problem and are enjoying people having to buy the new ECU. Make sense? If I am way off here, someone guide me.... I just don't want to be out $500 on a used one (which is the cheapest I've found) when I can buy a new one for $800.... but I don't want to buy either! LOL
 
If you get a used one off eBay, they have a guarantee that the product is what the seller says or you can get your money back. Keep in mind that you are limited to the 2003-2007 model years, honda changed things in 08, so they don't work on the earlier models. Check out motorcycle salvage yards, here's one: Atlantic Cycle Services in Melbourne, FL. $500 seems very high for a used unit. New ones here: www.partzilla.com
 
OK everyone.... before I cash in my chips on a new ECM.... one last try to get rid of that code 25/26 by replacing/repairing the engine knock sensor wires. My question is twofold for those who have done either: 1.) I cannot find the part number for just the engine knock sensor wires. Is it a separate harness in itself? (I already replaced the sub harness to the injectors, etc.). 2.) If I can't find one or it is too expensive for the test, has anyone repaired their own? Does it take a special wire? I have read on here that it is a shielded, one side grounded, braided wire. Is that what it needs to be spliced with? Any suggestions will help.
 
I cannot find the part number for just the engine knock sensor wires. Is it a separate harness in itself?
Not from Honda motorcycle division unless you buy the sub-harness that it is part of. It has been reported that Honda automotive P/N 30531-P8F-A00 from a Honda car auto parts has the same connector that fits the ST1300 knock sensor. It comes with the connector and a length of wire that you splice in to the existing motorcycle sub-harness.
See here.
 
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I have a 2004 ST1300A that had the same issue. I purchased a used ECM from a person parting out a 2003 ST1300 and did ask if he was aware of this issue on that bike. That solved the problem and the price was around $250. I might consider living with the problem if the only option was to purchase a new $800 unit since the bike is 17 years old and has 120K+. When looking at ECMs, be aware that there is a difference between the older and newer models.
 
Thanks guys. I will look into that harness #11. It looks right... but will make sure. Otherwise, If anyone has spliced the wire, where do you splice back to the harness? Where is a good accessible point on the bike?
 
A couple more motorcycle salvage yards for used parts:
Greentown Motorcycle Salvage, 2365 State Street, Uniontown, OH 44685
330 499-9768

Pinwall Cycle Parts, 635 3rd Street NW, Massillon, OH 44647
330 879-9910
 
Ok. Also kinda new to the ST 1300 and I have noticed that my FI light comes on when over 4200 rpm and the temp is above 85° F outside. Other times I can cruise at 5000 rpms all day in the lower temperatures.
 
Look up Larry igofar he can help. Did you clear the codes after replacing the harness? It may be an old code and its alot cheeper. Just a thought.
 
The ECM has a voltage failure on the 25/26 port aka the knock sensors. You can replace it with any of the four ECM models or buy a new one.

It's not the harness, save yourself the hassle and don't break it.
 
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