Can't speak for others but I felt uneasy for that short time I was riding up the ramp and pictured myself looking like the utube videos where the fool thinks he can ride up into a pick up. Prolly just me.
Motorcycle Lift Table...Atlas vs. Handy
- Thread starter bobframe
- Start date
Can't speak for others but I felt uneasy for that short time I was riding up the ramp and pictured myself looking like the utube videos where the fool thinks he can ride up into a pick up. Prolly just me.
OP
OP
If I can be patient, this is the smart choice. But that's a BIG "if".
I have the Handy 1000# air lift and love it. I have the front wheel vice from Handy on my lift, and I always walk the bikes on to the lift. The heavy ones I have the bike running, that way I am able to lock the front wheel in the vice by myself.
I made my own 12" wide side extensions from 2X6's and 1/2" plywood. The handy lifts have holes in the sides for the bars that they use to mount their extensions. 1 1/2" black pipe fit the holes very nice, and I use a 4' pipe for the rear, and a 5' pipe for the front wheel side. I put eye bolts in the 5' to put tiedown straps on the front when changing the rear tire, or any work that will have the rear end off the lift.
I also welded a 1/4" plate to the top rear half of the lift, so the center stands from the heavy bikes will not dent the top down into the way of the lift rollers.
I made my own 12" wide side extensions from 2X6's and 1/2" plywood. The handy lifts have holes in the sides for the bars that they use to mount their extensions. 1 1/2" black pipe fit the holes very nice, and I use a 4' pipe for the rear, and a 5' pipe for the front wheel side. I put eye bolts in the 5' to put tiedown straps on the front when changing the rear tire, or any work that will have the rear end off the lift.
I also welded a 1/4" plate to the top rear half of the lift, so the center stands from the heavy bikes will not dent the top down into the way of the lift rollers.
When I bought a lift a couple of years ago I agonized over the decision...
In my mind - there are basically two "types" of lifts. You have the ones with a set of wheels on the ground that move as you raise the lift and the other type has a full "frame" that is always on the ground and the mechanism moves inside of that
I ended up buying a lift made by Bendpak/Ranger that has the full frame - which for one I felt was safer.
http://www.bendpak.com/shop-equipment/motorcycle-lifts/rml-1500xl.aspx
I also see that Titan makes one that looks just like it:
http://titanlifts.com/motorcycle/titan-1500xlt-motorcycle-lift.html
A couple of features that sold me
Here is a pic of when I was rebuilding my ST1100 and rolled it out to the driveway to wash everything down: (note - the side extensions are not installed)
I ended up spending more money that I had originally wanted to - but I do not regret it at all. In fact, I wish I would have bought one years ago...
Definitely keep an eye on Craigs list
In my mind - there are basically two "types" of lifts. You have the ones with a set of wheels on the ground that move as you raise the lift and the other type has a full "frame" that is always on the ground and the mechanism moves inside of that
I ended up buying a lift made by Bendpak/Ranger that has the full frame - which for one I felt was safer.
http://www.bendpak.com/shop-equipment/motorcycle-lifts/rml-1500xl.aspx
I also see that Titan makes one that looks just like it:
http://titanlifts.com/motorcycle/titan-1500xlt-motorcycle-lift.html
A couple of features that sold me
- The lift has retractable casters and can be moved even when loaded
- It has a sliding plate which makes it very easy to remove the rear wheel
- Side extensions are standard - so there is no issue riding the bike up on the lift and not being able to touch the ground on the sides
- Mine weighs over 700 lbs and is extremely stable. I have no problems putting a 6 ft step ladder on it and climbing to the top of the ladder to access my garage storage
- There are 'positive' safety locks that are not going to fail
- When I am not using it to work on my motorcycles, I actually use it as a workbench - being able to adjust the height when I am working on different things really comes in handy
Here is a pic of when I was rebuilding my ST1100 and rolled it out to the driveway to wash everything down: (note - the side extensions are not installed)
I ended up spending more money that I had originally wanted to - but I do not regret it at all. In fact, I wish I would have bought one years ago...
Definitely keep an eye on Craigs list
OP
OP
Vinny, I am in the process of taking a closer look at Titan's lifts and I like what I see. Thanks for mentioning this.
A motorcycle shop a couple hours away has two lifts which have drop out/removable front section as well as a drop out rear. I'll see if I can find out who the manufacturer is, but these look to be premium lifts.
OP
OP
I think Handy makes one fitting this description. $$$$$. I think a jack on the lift table solves this issue at a lower cost.
The Handy in my shop had them front and rear.
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OP
OP
Update: Decided to go a different direction...mostly because of Vinny's suggestion to take a look at Titan. I know Vinny would not tolerate a sub-par tool of any description and if Titan pleases him...I know I will be happy.
Found a deal on them from Excel Equipment. The offer them for a discounted price which essentially covered the shipping charges. Here's the deal...http://excel-equipment.com/motorcycle-lifts-equipment/motorcycle-atv-lifts.
I was able to ship it to a friends business where he has a loading dock. This save me a bunch on shipping. It remains to be seen how we get it off his dock and onto my trailer. And then how we get it off the trailer and into my shop.
Found a deal on them from Excel Equipment. The offer them for a discounted price which essentially covered the shipping charges. Here's the deal...http://excel-equipment.com/motorcycle-lifts-equipment/motorcycle-atv-lifts.
I was able to ship it to a friends business where he has a loading dock. This save me a bunch on shipping. It remains to be seen how we get it off his dock and onto my trailer. And then how we get it off the trailer and into my shop.
Which model are you getting?
OP
OP
The Titan 1000D Lift...http://excel-equipment.com/motorcyc...le-atv-lifts/titan-1000d-motorcycle-lift.html
I decided to forego the side extensions due space considerations. I also don't think I'll need it for lawn mower etc. We'll see...I can always order the sides if I need them.
Late to the party and I have one of the cheap HF lifts so commenting on some general use and questions.
I agree that extensions are something to consider. I am like Bigmak and I walk along side the bike on the left side to put it up on the lift. Not sure if this is a reason for this but I am 6'4" and Bigmak is something like 6'6". Maybe this is a more preferable option for those of us that are fairly tall. Because I walk along the left side of the bike I am on the proper side to pop it up on the center stand and get to work strapping things down. Another tip is I have a section of 1/4 plywood on the deck below where the centerstand goes. Though the HF has a lip along the sides which holds it in place. Not sure if the others have this as well. This gives me a little more lift of the back wheel without making it too hard get up there if they were thicker. Also consider that without extensions your sidestand is worthless as it won't hit anything as the base isn't wide enough. So be ready to go up on centerstand right away. I didn't see anyone mention that bit of info. With a good wheel vice that you trust it isn't as big of a deal but the one that the base model HF lift comes with is pretty cheap and not high enough for me to trust. A good quality wheel vise is a double edge sword. Sure it supports the bike well but it makes it harder to do front end maint unless you pull it. Also it is easier to remove clips for the plastic if you can move the bars left and right. I just open up the cheap vice all the way and go to work. Use good tie downs and don't be afraid to relocate or add additional tie down points. While I have a panel I can pull for rear wheel maint, I find that since it is only 4 screws to remove the rear fender I just do that. It is easier than lifting the tire up and lowering it down. For the front wheel, I use 4 or 5 2x4 blocks. I forget how many. I pull down on the back of the bike and have the wife or someone stick them under the oil pan then tighten the tie downs again. Remember to loosen them before trying to pull down on the back of the bike.
Once you have one you won't know how you lived without one. As I mentioned I bought the cheap HF manual one and got it on sale for $280. Totally worth it. I figured I should be able to get that out of it later once I am ready to move up to an air model. Been thinking about going to the Titan but I have other things ahead of that buy.
I agree that extensions are something to consider. I am like Bigmak and I walk along side the bike on the left side to put it up on the lift. Not sure if this is a reason for this but I am 6'4" and Bigmak is something like 6'6". Maybe this is a more preferable option for those of us that are fairly tall. Because I walk along the left side of the bike I am on the proper side to pop it up on the center stand and get to work strapping things down. Another tip is I have a section of 1/4 plywood on the deck below where the centerstand goes. Though the HF has a lip along the sides which holds it in place. Not sure if the others have this as well. This gives me a little more lift of the back wheel without making it too hard get up there if they were thicker. Also consider that without extensions your sidestand is worthless as it won't hit anything as the base isn't wide enough. So be ready to go up on centerstand right away. I didn't see anyone mention that bit of info. With a good wheel vice that you trust it isn't as big of a deal but the one that the base model HF lift comes with is pretty cheap and not high enough for me to trust. A good quality wheel vise is a double edge sword. Sure it supports the bike well but it makes it harder to do front end maint unless you pull it. Also it is easier to remove clips for the plastic if you can move the bars left and right. I just open up the cheap vice all the way and go to work. Use good tie downs and don't be afraid to relocate or add additional tie down points. While I have a panel I can pull for rear wheel maint, I find that since it is only 4 screws to remove the rear fender I just do that. It is easier than lifting the tire up and lowering it down. For the front wheel, I use 4 or 5 2x4 blocks. I forget how many. I pull down on the back of the bike and have the wife or someone stick them under the oil pan then tighten the tie downs again. Remember to loosen them before trying to pull down on the back of the bike.
Once you have one you won't know how you lived without one. As I mentioned I bought the cheap HF manual one and got it on sale for $280. Totally worth it. I figured I should be able to get that out of it later once I am ready to move up to an air model. Been thinking about going to the Titan but I have other things ahead of that buy.
This is probably not a concern for Bob, he no longer has the ST... he has gone over to the other side and bought a couple of BMWs... but we still love him!
I saw that but mentioned it in the event other ST owners were reading the post that may also be shopping for a lift. Also there is the fact I have never worked on a BMW bike so I don't know if this is a consideration. The big wheel clamp is likely easier to deal with than one of the alternatives. Some people with the cheap HF lifts also pick up one of the front wheel chocks. While these work it makes it harder to work on the front of the bike. So I would recommend making it something that can be removed.
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OP
OP
I've been "outed". Still have many great memories from my ST...unforgettable motor for sure. I've been riding a boxer since January and have just begun feeling comfortable with how to make the engine work for me. None of the "bottomless pit of low end torque" that my ST1300 had. But I will say that I don't miss those pesky plastic push pins (PPPP's??)
But many thanks to all for helping this ST Refugee. Hmmm....song title in there?
You weren't outed by him. I saw RT and GS below your pic. Like I said it was more of a general comment about moving the bars around for the good of the group I don't think you would have that issue on a GS but not sure on an RT. Never worked on either one. I have to say that the GS is my Powerball bike. I just can't justify one as there really isn't anywhere to ride one near me off road.
I still suspect you will have the same issue with BMWs in that there isn't a way to put it on sidestand so you will have to rely on whatever you have for a front wheel vice or centerstand until you can get it strapped down. Have some help available the first couple times using it which is pretty much a given I assume.
Meant nothing by that, Bob... we really do value you just as much or more than before... seriously.
Think nothing of it Bob, you may have had a laps in judgement in your scooter choices, but you are smart enough to stick around here so it's all good.
:duck:
I bought a pro cycle drop tail with the chopper extension and the side extensions. It's straight pneumatic with nothing hydraulic. Front wheel vise and their blackjack positional center scissor lift. I love this lift. The rear section slides completly off with the bike on its center stand or the blackjack. This allows uninhibited access to the rear wheel. Having a good lift is the only way to go. I have a Condor wheel chock that I position in front of the wheel vise for my KLR650. That bike is much shorter and the Condor positions it back more so that the droptail works for the KLR.
Keep an eye on Craigslist (or your local equivalent) for lifts. I've seen two Handy lifts come up here in the last month. One was a S.A.M. 1000, the other a B.O.B. Air Lift (1,500 lbs, wider, with rear drop panel). Both were 1/2 retail.