yes I might see if can get strap around frame at rear, this would be good
thanks for that.... that the kind of idea i had in mind, lifted with a car ramp, 2 post, 4 arms.While inspecting the wheel alignment, I wish I had taken more photos. I also experimented with using the front and rear crash bars together to lift the bike, which provided easier access to the clutch master cylinder. However, the rear handles were only used for balance, not for lifting.
Although lifting the bike was feasible, putting it down was more difficult. I wouldn't recommend this method.
Since then, I've discovered a more secure way to lift the bike using straps by attaching them to the frame under the seat and the crash bars.
@Sidekick is lifting the bike aft by hooking onto either Bygdawg tip over bars or modified GW bars. These both attach to the frame solidly with two 10mm? (at least 8mm) bolts each side and are about as secure a lifting point as one can find on the bike. If lifting the bike to service it is what you plan for the future, I'd suggest either fabricating or buying a pair of the tip over guards mentioned. The front and rear TO bars are the way to go. The added benefit to the rear bars, of course, is protection in a drop.
yes I had one of those once, sold it. One still has to be crouching down or bending with that, is the problemAll you need to lift the bike enough to get the front wheels off is any automotive jack, remove fender and just lift under the engine enough to get the wheel about an inch off the ground.
Good info here
Best rolling motorcycle jack? | Tools/Workshop/Garage
I'm looking for a quality rolling jack for my ST1300. There isn't room for a permanent lift. Something stable while stationary and of course stable when moving. I can't say price is no object, but I really want quality. Thanks for your time.www.st-owners.com
Lifting the bike 5' in the air to change the oil might be a bit like standing next to a horse when he urinates....@Sidekick is lifting the bike aft by hooking onto either Bygdawg tip over bars or modified GW bars. These both attach to the frame solidly with two 10mm? (at least 8mm) bolts each side and are about as secure a lifting point as one can find on the bike. If lifting the bike to service it is what you plan for the future, I'd suggest either fabricating or buying a pair of the tip over guards mentioned. The front and rear TO bars are the way to go. The added benefit to the rear bars, of course, is protection in a drop.
Lifting the bike 5' in the air to change the oil might be a bit like standing next to a horse when he urinates.
There were pics and links to a number of lifts in Mellow's thread. Your two post car lift, however, is a home run compared to a bunt.
You can find a 1,000-pound electric hoist for under $150, but a quality lifting table can be more expensive.
If you already have a overhead lifting device of some kind in your garage capable of lifting the ST1300, it can also be used to store the lift table up in the air and off of the floor depending on the height available. Using proper rigging equipment, and safety chains secured to something other than the hoist, it presents no danger being stored in the air.
Absolutely possible, but why not just lifting the bike then, am I my missing something?
ah but these lifts cost quite a bit of cash. You also have to stoop over them and under them. The 2 post car ramp cost £700 and does the cars too, so better economy long term. Also handy for helping the neighbour/pals out with car stuff.
Because it is rare that what you are doing will not cause the motorcycle to sway and move around while you are trying to work on it while it is suspended in the air. This is frustrating, inconvenient, and possibly dangerous. It is even more rare that any maintenance task being performed on a motorcycle is made more difficult because of using a lift table. The stability, safety, and convenience of the lift table is always present however.
The bike wouldn't need to be swinging around in the air, it could be held with straps on each side to the ramp posts and an engine jack could be brought underneath to make sound contact.
Absolutely it could held with straps, anything can be done, but you will need a lot of attachment points to prevent movement which is what you want if you are doing any task that requires imparting any amount of force to accomplish. Suspending a motorcycle from the legs of an automobile lift is not the same as mechanically lifting a motorcycle using an automobile lift. If you are going to be working on an 800 Lb. motorcycle that is suspended from the air you don't want to be around it with it suspended from normal tie-down straps let alone working on it. I know I wouldn't. I would only use properly rated lifting slings that are designed for continuous load suspension. Even with that you should never be close to or underneath a suspended load for any length of time while it is suspended let alone working on it. Even if you have proper slings to minimize the risk you then have all of the stabilization straps that you are using to attempt to keep it where you want it that will be in your way when you are working on the motorcycle. After having done all of that it still won't be as stable or safe as it would be sitting on a lift table.
I wouldn’t use the rear crash bars to lift. They aren’t an integral structural part of the motorcycle. They are aftermarket bolt-ons.While inspecting the wheel alignment, I wish I had taken more photos. I also experimented with using the front and rear crash bars together to lift the bike, which provided easier access to the clutch master cylinder. However, the rear handles were only used for balance, not for lifting.
Although lifting the bike was feasible, putting it down was more difficult. I wouldn't recommend this method.
Since then, I've discovered a more secure way to lift the bike using straps by attaching them to the frame under the seat and the crash bars.
+1 It makes me think of positive and negative Gs on airplane wings. The stress anticipated for the crash bars is completely different than that imposed by lifting from them. With additonal points utilized the rear crash bars could probably be used more for stability than actual lift. That's all a WAG on my part. Not even a SWAG. So good luck.
