Igofar Reviews

Often a leak coming from the square opening, or lower radiator hose will blow back and the round hole will catch it, appearing to be leaking.
I just had him verify that it was not a constant drip as in a failed mechanical seal etc.
 
I must caution all of you who frequent this forum; be very careful about calling Larry. He might just call you to see if you followed through on his advice:biggrin:!! I had this very awesome privilege. I had already called and been given the low down on how to make the clutch slave replacement a much less painful ordeal and so when Larry saw my post about not having a firm lever when done, I received a follow up call with more tech assist. So, if you need help and the :WCP1: number has been offered. CALL!! You will not be disappointed. If the whisperer calls you, you better answer too.
Thank you for all the help Larry.
 
just back from a 6,300 mile tour of 20 states visiting family and friends. About 100 miles into it I would get what sounded like a bearing squall when I'd hit a bump then it would go away after hitting the next bump. If you've ever heard what a water pump squall sounds like that is the noise.... then it stayed continuously.... I'm thinking CRAP!! I'm going to have to turn around and head for home... pulled over at Raton, NM to call Larry, just as I'm explaining it all I see the culprit!! axle bolt loose.... sent pics to Larry and he talked me through the 22mm wrench and 6mm allen....
headed for an O'Riely's and they loaned me the tools... 10 minutes and I'm back on the road. Larry's calm reassurances and explanations ea sed my stress and saved the trip.
You are the MAN....... Thank You LARRY!!
- Mike Baird 20230601_131820.jpg
 
This is my ode to @Igofar:

My SMC was failing (again), so I sent Larry a DM and requested a consultation on the White Courtesy Phone. Because I figured that so many people were reaching out to him, I thought that I’d need to schedule a time to speak with him. Not so. He called me the very next day and we spoke for 2.5 hours! Amazing! What’s more, he offered to walk me through a variety of procedures over the phone for an extremely reasonable price (wink, wink, nod, nod). What a remarkable commitment to someone he had never met in person!

After the call was over, I wasn’t sure if my experience with the guy on the other end of the White Courtesy Phone was a mistake or a blessing. I had owned my ST for a while, put nearly 60,000 miles on it, and done quite a bit of work on it myself, I thought I was pretty knowledgeable about the bike. Larry quickly, but nicely, disabused me of that notion. My level of ignorance was astonishing and I was concerned. Larry’s immense knowledge was immediately apparent, and I was humbled.

I was also quite despondent over the poor condition of my bike. The vast majority of the initial call was taken up by Larry telling me all things that were wrong with my ST. His “list” went something like this:

Clutch lever bushing was worn & boot torn
Forks were misaligned
Rear brake caliper bracket was damaged
Rear Brake Fluid Reservoir was damaged (it was amber-colored)
Wrong Brake Pads (EBC)
Wrong oil (Shell Rotella T6 because it is no longer S rated)
Performing oil changes incorrectly (not pulling in the clutch lever)
Didn’t have a magnetic oil drain plug
Hadn’t cleaned the bobbins on my front rotors
Fuel mileage less than 52 MPG (throttle body was not synced properly)
Counterbalancers were out of adjustment
The rear shock pre-load needed to be serviced
Missing rubber washers on the front fender
Bearings in the final driven flange needed to be replaced
Didn’t bleed the clutch line correctly after replacing the CSC
Not replacing the 2nd O-ring on the rear wheel underneath the final driven flange with each rear tire change,
Didn’t need to remove the throttle body to replace the O-rings for the cylinder head water pipe joints (although I did get points for replacing the fuel joint tube and correctly tightening the bands around the insulator boots), and I
Should replace the front axle pinch bolts with the type used on the Police bikes.


Nevertheless, he promised that if I followed his directions, he would help me correct all the deficiencies. While I professed my willingness to follow his tuition, I doubted whether I could do everything he expected. Despite my trepidation and because everything he discussed was explained to me in relatively simple and understandable terms, I decided to go through with it. Of course, it didn’t end up being that easy…that’s a story (or several stories) for another day.

Over the next couple of months, Larry made sure that I ordered all the necessary parts to fix my ST and that I had all the required tools. One tool I would have to make on my own. It was great having a second set of “eyes” look over my vast parts lists and a tremendous resource to answer my numerous questions.

Thus far, Larry has spent nearly 12 hours on the phone with me. Every time we spoke, he was gracious, patient, supportive, and very engaging. Larry has a great sense of humor and knows how to play a number of interesting songs on his guitar. Bleeding your brakes while he plays his guitar is quite an experience! I highly recommend it.

As I mentioned earlier, not everything I needed to do went off without a hitch. Each time I encounters a roadblock, I called Larry on the White Courtesy Phone. Virtually every time, he cheerfully answered my call, immediately stopped what he was doing, and spent time (sometimes an hour or more) helping me work through the problems. Larry has the patience of Job. Never once was he curt, short, terse, angry, or condescending despite my level of ignorance.

With Larry’s guidance, I have:

Rebuilt all three brake calipers;
Replaced the SMC
Replaced the lower steering stem, top bridge, and steering bearings (due to a broken pinch bolt);
Aligned the forks;
Replace the front wheel bearings; and
Successfully got all the air out of my brake system.


There was a time when I thought I’d never get all the air completely purged. Even my air bubbles had air bubbles! However, Larry is just that good folks. He can deftly instruct even an ignoramus like me from two time zones away!

In reality, I simply lack the vocabulary to adequately express my gratitude to Larry. I also sincerely appreciate his further commitment to help me with the throttle body sync, counterbalance adjustment, etc. in the future. As another member said: “Larry is both a World Class ST Whisperer AND a Great Guy.” He’s also a guru, instructor, and excellent mentor. Larry has even inspired me to help others with my newfound knowledge.

Saying “Thanks” just doesn't seem sufficient, but it’s the best I can do for now. If you need help, please do not hesitate to contact Larry via the White Courtesy Phone. You won’t regret it! Thanks again, Larry!

-Chris Welch

(P.S. I regret that I was not able to contribute to Larry's tip jar. After much pleading, however, Larry relented and permitted me to send him a small token of my appreciation. Larry is also a very generous person.)

(P.S.S. If anyone would like the details on the journey I took with Larry or pictures of the carnage, I will gladly share the details upon request.)
 
(P.S.S. If anyone would like the details on the journey I took with Larry or pictures of the carnage, I will gladly share the details upon request.)
Sure!
Start another maintenance thread of your own where you can detail it. We all benefit from the experiences of others, be they good or bad.
 
I once again have a '09 ST1300A that I can ride with confidence.

The wheels now rotate freely thanks to @Igofar. After Larry took the time to talk me through the problem and the solution I was able to order and replace parts myself. Larry's trust in my ability to carry this out was a huge boost to my confidence. Although there is more work to be done (Larry is VERY thorough) the ST1300 is back in service.

Larry's expertise and willingness to help is an amazing asset to the ST1300 community.

Thanks Larry. I will pay this forward as you requested.
 
If wasn't for Larry...bike would be for sale now. From my last post about a dragging rear brake...
Finally sharing an update...been off the bike/not made the time to wrap it up.. Very fortunate to get through to Larry (Igofar) on the white courtesy phone (which now has live acoustical guitar music while u wait) couple days ago, whom walked me successfully through the process, despite my best efforts. My commute to work is 50 miles one way and today was first time riding since Larry guided me through the process. Guessing it will take couple hundred miles for the new brake pads to properly seat, back tire spins more freely (2 complete revolutions), rear disk is almost cool to the touch like front disks, fuel economy seems better judged by the instant mpg display and bike rolls backwards much easier when in neutral. Best of all, slightest pull on the front brake level and the bike slows down like a tractor beam from the Enterprise just locked on. BIG SHOUT OUT to Larry. Few know this bike as well as him and even fewer can give directions over the phone on how to troubleshoot such a finicky system. To all who shared their ideas and suggestions--thank you as well. It confirmed others have wrestled with this system and found success

Quote Reply
 
September 2, 2023.....I phone IGoFar to cheer him up(?). Surprised to hear that he is waiting for a hospital room. We chat this and that. We momentarily discuss alternator possibilities since my bike is about to kick off the 90k season. I wish him well and...........

September 9, 2023 (Saturday).....I've been sick for 5 days (making progress), when I decide to take a 40mile romp. Nearing the six block mark before home, my ABs Light flashes (huh?). I pull over to assess the situation at Jack n the Box........Turn off engine, turn on engine, nope- insufficient cranking power (huh?). Battery has 12k on it. Previous battery has 19k and works. Since when does flashing ABs light and 12.2volts hold hands? hmmm.....A kind citizen provides a jump, I had pulled headlight fuses, and I notice my alternator isn't providing ANY charging power. Ride home like your life depends on it because of course I just bought refrigerator required groceries. Are you kidding me? IGoFar and I just discussed this potential situation. Am I a fortune teller now?

September 10, 2023.....Troubleshoot day! Yay! Not........... Fully charged both batteries I own. Research work in progress. I have no farkles. Don't these alternators last longer than this?

Question #1....Why is there a black/white wire from alternator to Kill switch on right handlebar? (Service Manual 2003-2010 page #19-2)
Question #2....Anyone know easiest access to alternator electrical connectors for tests?

Pic #1 Bike parked on Ridge above Stumpy Meadows Lake Reservoir-El Dorado County Calif
Pic #2 Nearing Loon Lake (Desolation Wilderness)-El Dorado County Calif
Pic #3 The only time a Lake Tahoe storm at Loon Lake ever halted before me
IMG_0036.JPGIMG_0041.JPGIMG_0046.JPG
 
The b/w lead through the run/stop switch is part of a small circuit through the bank angle sensor and the bank angle relay. The relay turns on power to many of the components that make the engine run eg coils, injectors, fuel pump, ....

In this way the engine can be made safe (no power) by using the red switch, or by dropping the bike.

A diagram can be seen in this post:


The b/w lead to the red switch actually comes from the fuse box, which in turn is fed from the main ignition switch.

The lead from the alternator is tapped into the b/w from the fuse box. I don't know enough about this, but I cant see why rectified voltage from the regulator would be feeding power into the line going from the fuse box to the red switch. I wonder if it is flowing the other way - eg providing a reference voltage for the regulator ???

Whatever, it is of no consequence until the engine is running..
 
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Question #1....Why is there a black/white wire from alternator to Kill switch on right handlebar? (Service Manual 2003-2010 page #19-2)
It's not FROM alternator TO kill-switch. It's FROM fuse-D TO kill-switch input AND alternator's regulator input at same time. Alternator-output is actually red/wht wire. It's like light-switch turning ON two light-bulbs at once with Y-split or T-junction. DC flows from power-source to device to ground. In this case, power-source is battery which powers ignition-switch then fuse-D.

Then fuse-D supplies power to BOTH kill-switch input and regulator input on wht/blk wire. Output of kill-switch is actually black wire that feeds bank angle sensor relay. Other branch of fuse-D wht/blk wire is INPUT to regulator.

uc


The b/w lead through the run/stop switch is part of a small circuit through the bank angle sensor and the bank angle relay. The relay turns on power to many of the components that make the engine run eg coils, injectors, fuel pump, ....

In this way the engine can be made safe (no power) by using the red switch, or by dropping the bike.

A diagram can be seen in this post:


The b/w lead to the red switch actually comes from the fuse box, which in turn is fed from the main ignition switch.

The lead from the alternator is tapped into the b/w from the fuse box. I don't know enough about this, but I cant see why rectified voltage from the regulator would be feeding power into the line going from the fuse box to the red switch. I wonder if it is flowing the other way - eg providing a reference voltage for the regulator ???

Whatever, it is of no consequence until the engine is running..
Yes, is ref-voltage feedback from fuse-D so regulator can adjust field-windings to vary output to maintain steady voltage.
 
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Thank you JFHeath and Danno, for your input. Does anyone know common reasons for ST alternator fails? If required, purchase options that don't include loans from Dubai? heh
 
Thank you JFHeath and Danno, for your input. Does anyone know common reasons for ST alternator fails? If required, purchase options that don't include loans from Dubai? heh
Cause & Effect? From what I can gather, symptoms/effects are brushes and slip-rings wear out. Not easily replaced, and if you get donor alternator with these good parts in them, might as well use that donor as replacement.

This is ND alternator similar to what's used on many Japanese autos. Brushes are not replaceable without disassembling. Unlike Bosch alternators where brushes can be easily replaced since VRM module is external (see photo below).

I suspect cause of these issues is heat due to location of alternator inside V. Similar issues with many Toyotas that kill these alternators in 60-100K-miles on regular basis. Some Toyota engineer put alternator above or next to headers and alternator's fan-blades actually pull hot air INTO alternator from above headers! This of course, cooks electronics (kills diodes) and make soft copper on slip-rings wear out faster. Solutions include adding heat-shield between alternator and header along with reversing fan to blow cooler air from pulley side into alternator. With these mods, alternators last forever, many have 400K-miles+. :)

Possible solutions:

1. find ND alternator from auto that may be bolt-on replacement, not likely without lots of trial & error scouring junkyards and measuring. May be bonus upgrade as ND auto alternators start at 55a output. Many Porsche owners actually use Toyota/Nissan ND alternators since they're 1/2 size of Bosch units. Frees up valuable space around engine for BIGGER TURBOS!!!

2. finding replacement parts from ND catalogue, might be possible.

1694458461469.png

3. cooling solutions for alternator... gold-foil heat wrap? liquid-cooling? Peltier coolers? Adding PC CPU-fans to RR on VFR was common solution in early days.


Bosch alternator with easily replaced VRM module with new brushes.
1694457624863.png1694457592171.png
 
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Mine failed at 116,000 miles. The rotor tested open circuit, I guess that is a broken wire in the rotor windings. The rotor was available from Honda as were the individual component parts. I elected to purchase new OEM rather than rebuild it. It appears Honda still has component parts available.
 
Mine failed at 116,000 miles. The rotor tested open circuit, I guess that is a broken wire in the rotor windings. The rotor was available from Honda as were the individual component parts. I elected to purchase new OEM rather than rebuild it. It appears Honda still has component parts available.

dduelin. May I ask what year your ST1300 was?
 
My 2005 ST1300 alternator went out around 60K (? - it's been awhile and I sold the bike to my son 10 years ago and I gave him the maintenance records. so I don't remember the exact mileage.) :think1:

Because I "was" commuting 125 miles a day, I started hording parts when I found them on eBay for a reasonable price. Of course by now, some of these parts are getting harder/more expensive.

And of course, to replace the alternator, you have to dig deep in the valley, to get to it.

Keep us informed on your progress.
 
Update!......What a beautiful blue sky day today (Wednesday). Removed plastic, radiator, thermostat house. Koeo, 12volts at alternator reference connector. Koer, only 12volts leaving alternator at exit nut. So, I am blown away that such an expensive part on the ST only lasts 90k without farkles. Considering my options. Let me check the money tree. $800 for an alternator? My first car didn't cost that. Any input appreciated. Have a great day everyone! Especially you, Larry :)IMG_0002.JPG
 
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Update!......What a beautiful blue sky day today (Wednesday). Removed plastic, radiator, thermostat house. Koeo, 12volts at alternator reference connector. Koer, only 12volts leaving alternator at exit nut. So, I am blown away that such an expensive part on the ST only lasts 90k without farkles. Considering my options. Let me check the money tree. $800 for an alternator? My first car didn't cost that. Any input appreciated. Have a great day everyone! Especially you, Larry :)IMG_0002.JPG
$637.08 with free shipping and no sales tax from here https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f133f870021c54be64a5/alternator
 
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