Where are you located? Can I ask also what your desire is and your plans for them?
Identify this left hand throttle lock-- spoiler! Was a left hand throttle
- Thread starter mthonda
- Start date
Sadlsor
Site Supporter
Seems to be an enigma, stuffed with a riddle.
A young friend was a successful road racer, but lost his right arm after a horrific crash. Another engineer-type friend from our sportbike club fabricated all left- hand controls for his bike, and he continued to race.
Now the young man also leads dual sport rides. I have GOT! to ride with Jared on the trails.
A young friend was a successful road racer, but lost his right arm after a horrific crash. Another engineer-type friend from our sportbike club fabricated all left- hand controls for his bike, and he continued to race.
Now the young man also leads dual sport rides. I have GOT! to ride with Jared on the trails.
I'm in Richmond, VA. I have a dual (no pun intended) interest.
One is that I sometimes use my left hand on the throttle to give my right shoulder a rest.
The other is as an interface for adding an electronic cruise control.
Bmacleod
Site Supporter
This sounds like a good project
I'll do some disassembly of mine and give new idea of what it consists of and we'll go from there. I've got a brother in Richmond virginia!
If I'm not mistaken, that's the outer-most portion of a right-side housing from a donor bike, epoxied onto the original left housing, along with the throttle-tube and grip, and cables.
That hole in the housing at the left edge of the picture would be pointing down if it was on the right side. The 1300 cables point toward the front of the bike, not toward the ground.
That hole in the housing at the left edge of the picture would be pointing down if it was on the right side. The 1300 cables point toward the front of the bike, not toward the ground.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Depends on how far off populated areas you intend to go...
AFAIK do you have bears, wolves, coyotes and such critters up there... and the right to carry... thus...
So you use your left hand on the right grip?
That would confuse my brain so much I'm sure I would turn the wrong way.
Sadlsor
Site Supporter
I'll confess to doing this on the regular... sometimes I have a nasty hot shooting pain under my right shoulder blade, and I'll switch hands on the throttle to relieve it. It only happens loafer a long time in the saddle, but feels like a red-hot knife being slid under my scapula.
There is no worry about "steering the wrong way", but if you are clumsy in the transition, it is possible to hit that engine cutoff switch and turn your bike off.
At highway speeds, you get your hands right again, pull in the clutch, return the engine cutoff to Run, release the clutch, and be more careful next time.
All this is a lot easier than doing a stoppie while sitting on the tank with your legs draped over the handlebars. The fact that I've never been able to do a stoppie this way, proves my point.
At least for me.
Absolutely, yes. One or two steering inputs and my instincts take over.
I think about which direction to twist, not which hand to push or pull with.
Okay Larry!If I'm not mistaken, that's the outer-most portion of a right-side housing from a donor bike, epoxied onto the original left housing, along with the throttle-tube and grip, and cables.
That hole in the housing at the left edge of the picture would be pointing down if it was on the right side. The 1300 cables point toward the front of the bike, not toward the ground.
Thought I'd give you the information on here so others could also gleam what was going on here more thoroughly. It's actually a pretty slick setup.
I found the reason that the left hand throttle wasn't working as fluidly as the right was a combination of the throttle tube having some resistance on the bar but also the bigger part was that the grip itself was slipping on the tube. You could see where somebody had been in there with some sort of adhesive trying to get the grip to stick to the tube.
I don't know where the throttle assembly was sourced from. But it is three pieces. I can't reference it to a standard right hand throttle assembly because of having a police style right hand assembly. So I'm Flying Blind there.
The assembly was glued to the switch housing with the addition of one screw going through the face of the bottom half into the switch body to help stabilize things. Wasn't sure I was going to get it off in one piece because it was pretty strong glue but everything went well.
Next I went into the throttle body area and removed an allen heads screw out of the tip. There was a cap piece of plastic between this and the rotating assembly for the left cables.
The left cable Hub would then slide off the shaft. Then there is a collar in the center of the two throttle hubs that is held with a set screw.
Once the collar is removed then the right throttle collar would slide off the shaft.
I'm now at a standstill because I cannot determine what is holding the shaft for these collars and hubs onto the Factory throttle body shaft. I'm assuming that inside there is an Allen head or Philips that is holding the two together. Its deep enough I can't see in there. Deep enough that a short end of a 90⁰ Allen won't touch. Not enough depth to get the full length of the Allen in between the assembly and the Motorcycle Frame.
If somebody can give me some insight as to what may hold a factory throttle Hub onto the end of the shaft that might get me a little further along. All the parts diagrams I can find do not break this down that far.
It looks like what I would need from you would be the the factory throttle collar to attach on to my throttle shaft and the factory bracket where the cables would mount to take me back to factory. And I'd be good on this end. Hope this makes sense.
Got it!
Was looking closer and saw a plastic collar as the final piece stacked between the right throttle hub and the throttle shaft. Slid that off and found another set screw. Once the set screw was backed out I could thread this auxiliary shaft off the throttle body shaft that is got to threaded end with a flat spot. This makes for a nice surface for the set screwed to tighten down on.
Im also wondering about that stamped tin collar on the shaft with the idle stop screw. This almost looks as if the throttle cable would attached to that when set up from factory. In which case I may just need a lock washer, flat washer, and nut to keep this attach to the shaft?
I would also still need the cable holder as well so I could give up this double one.
I have since started the bike and run it on the center stand and the controller lit up! Seem to function with all the buttons. Even on the high settings got the little to no heat. Further investigation will be needed!
On to my next question..
It looks like I must have two left hand throttle grips to account for the throttle tube on both sides. So I will be on the hunt for new heated grips I guess.
First question is why there would be so much Gap in between the handle and weight and the grip or if I slide the grip out between the grip and the switch assembly. It's like this on both sides. Did they go as far as replacing the left hand handlebar with a right hand so they had a longer bar for the additional throttle assembly? Looks like I have the factory heated grip option so I believe in maybe Honda grips. Or maybe just a loosen the switch assemblies and slide them further out on the bar toward the grip to take up the extra space? This would require me to slide out the Clutch and Brake assemblies as well to keep them in line with the hand grip.
Then the next question would be what would be the best bang for the buck heated grips to replace what I have because I'm not finding the factory option any longer.
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ST Gui
240Robert
I've seen three names mentioned here that might be to your liking though maybe not all in the best bang for the buck category.
The KOSO Apollo grips are interesting but pricy at $145. They may be cheaper at other than Revzilla. They appeal to me because of the all in one and auto off nature.
Most people recommend wiring them/everything to a relay with switched power. The Rev has a cheaper non-integrated version for $80.
Then there's Oxford Heaterz grips. There's a range of more and less expensive grips in their lines.
The Symtec Heat Demons are pads that mount to the handlebars. Popular here though Unc's 4 1100s skew the voting a skosh. But reasonably priced.
These are just potential suggestions. Everyone has their picks. Those chiming in will be able to advise why.
F'rinstance I'd like to get the Apollos. Integrated grip/controller. 5 heat settings. Wire directly to the battery with Auto-Off. (Not a popular method of installation.)
Lots of choices. Many vendors. Happy hunting.
The KOSO Apollo grips are interesting but pricy at $145. They may be cheaper at other than Revzilla. They appeal to me because of the all in one and auto off nature.
Most people recommend wiring them/everything to a relay with switched power. The Rev has a cheaper non-integrated version for $80.
Then there's Oxford Heaterz grips. There's a range of more and less expensive grips in their lines.
The Symtec Heat Demons are pads that mount to the handlebars. Popular here though Unc's 4 1100s skew the voting a skosh. But reasonably priced.
These are just potential suggestions. Everyone has their picks. Those chiming in will be able to advise why.
F'rinstance I'd like to get the Apollos. Integrated grip/controller. 5 heat settings. Wire directly to the battery with Auto-Off. (Not a popular method of installation.)
Lots of choices. Many vendors. Happy hunting.
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Thanks for this! I'll definitely do some research into these.I've seen three names mentioned here that might be to your liking though maybe not all in the best bang for the buck category.
The KOSO Apollo grips are interesting but pricy at $145. They may be cheaper at other than Revzilla. They appeal to me because of the all in one and auto off nature.
Most people recommend wiring them/everything to a relay with switched power. The Rev has a cheaper non-integrated version for $80.
Then there's Oxford Heaterz grips. There's a range of more and less expensive grips in their lines.
The Symtec Heat Demons are pads that mount to the handlebars. Popular here though Unc's 4 1100s skew the voting a skosh. But reasonably priced.
These are just potential suggestions. Everyone has their picks. Those chiming in will be able to advise why.
F'rinstance I'd like to get the Apollos. Integrated grip/controller. 5 heat settings. Wire directly to the battery with Auto-Off. (Not a popular method of installation.)
Lots of choices. Many vendors. Happy hunting.
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- '21 RT / '24 GSA
Definitely a strange throttle setup but since it's a police bike, seems like something done in case a right handed shooter can have better accuracy...
I always find it humorous when in some movies the MC riders chasing bad guys, or good guys, use their right hands to shoot... lol
I always find it humorous when in some movies the MC riders chasing bad guys, or good guys, use their right hands to shoot... lol
The best heated grips come from this company. With 5 heat settings, it gets very warm from the third level onwards, I have never used the fourth or fifth level, as it gives me blisters on my palms.
The website is also available in English, at the top right of the website under DE you will see ENG.
Works great in my Pan ST1300.
holm from Germany https://www.coolride.de/?a=15174&lang=eng
The website is also available in English, at the top right of the website under DE you will see ENG.
Works great in my Pan ST1300.
holm from Germany https://www.coolride.de/?a=15174&lang=eng
The best grips are the ones where you cannot use about half the settings because they burn your paws? Wirklich?
the Ferret
Daily rider since May 1965
I had the Oxford Heated Grips on my ST (and on my NC 750) 5 heat settings and auto off. About $100. Wired directly to the battery. With my handlebar muffs it makes little heated caves for my hands and I ride down to zero with thin summer weight deerskin gloves and usually with the heat setting on 30% (it goes 30, 50, 70, 80 and 100% I believe). Have never used more than 50% they get too dang hot.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
I never paid attention or noticed- Are the ST1300 handle bars hollow all the way through to run the wires internally?
