Identify this left hand throttle lock-- spoiler! Was a left hand throttle

mthonda said:
Possibly to allow the police officer more flexibility with running multiple items at once?
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If that were the case you'd think there would be some trace of it on the 'net. There may be but then it's pretty elusive. But I see a potential use case particularly as it's an STP. "Isosceles" comes to mind.

So it's a throttle assembly. And it's also a throttle lock? Has the function of the bit that seems to get pushed when the clutch lever is pulled been confirmed?

Dual throttles would seem to need a learning curve as it could be a quick way to get into trouble. Maybe that's why T2 has some resistance compared to T1. What PD/SD/SO did this STP come from? They should be able to shed some light on this mystery.

Around 2016/2017 Honda started allowing civilian sales. Could a dealer sell one to a civilian before that? Were STP sales done via Honda not a dealer with bikes set up by a dealer? Against Honda's policy? At this point I'm interested more in the bike's provenance now the T2 has been somewhat sorted.
 
ST Gui said:
If that were the case you'd think there would be some trace of it on the 'net. There may be but then it's pretty elusive. But I see a potential use case particularly as it's an STP. "Isosceles" comes to mind.

So it's a throttle assembly. And it's also a throttle lock? Has the function of the bit that seems to get pushed when the clutch lever is pulled been confirmed?

Dual throttles would seem to need a learning curve as it could be a quick way to get into trouble. Maybe that's why T2 has some resistance compared to T1. What PD/SD/SO did this STP come from? They should be able to shed some light on this mystery.

Around 2016/2017 Honda started allowing civilian sales. Could a dealer sell one to a civilian before that? Were STP sales done via Honda not a dealer with bikes set up by a dealer? Against Honda's policy? At this point I'm interested more in the bike's provenance now the T2 has been somewhat sorted.
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Uncertain about all the above.

It's a 52,000 mile bike that I picked up for $800. Jumped on it knowing it had some problems.

It definitely was a police issue. Has all the wiring cut for the bobbles that were on the back. No rear foot pegs. Brackets for front lights near side mirrors. Strobes still in the side panels. PO said that person they bought it off of told them that it was used as a program bike after retired from the police force. I assume that means some sort of motorcycle training. Would explain why a lot of the plastic is cracked and the Tank's been repainted.

Hazard and turn signal fuse kept blowing. Replaced the horn and brake light fuse and it's been fine since. Found a bunch of cut and bare wires which I isolated.

Heated grips and heated seat were unhooked. So far after applying power to the heated grip control module I got nothing to light up on the controller. I'm thinking it's spent.

Took one test drive and then rode it home after purchased. Probably a total of 30 miles.

Was pushing it around my driveway a few days later and heard the rear tire rubbing. Found the inner fender liner had been cut and the battery tray eliminated and replaced with some metal work allowing inner plastic to be warped and pushed all out of shape. I have since purchased all the parts to replace that and have everything back to factory.

It does have two newer Dunlop, new battery, and supposedly a recent clutch.

Also in the process of checking out a windshield issue. One side is looser than the other and seems to be out of time. Seems common on these.

To say the least it's a project.
 

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ST Gui said:
I admire your ambition!
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I enjoy Hobbies like this.

I know these bikes are pretty safe bet overall. I always like to go through anything I buy used and get to know it and bring it up to Snuff within reason. I'll probably have another $500 in it plus my time to make it a respectable riding bike.


If it meets my needs I'll ride it for quite a while. If I really love it I may find a nicer, newer, lower mileage version and trade up one some day.

Overall cosmetics will be this bikes weakest point and even at that it's a good ten footer standing still. Looks even better at speed! Lol
 
Those under tank photos showed what I was suspecting. Two independent sets of cables actuating the common throttle linkage.

I think the police heritage may also be irrelevant. Again, I'd wager this is an accommodation for a rider with disabilities.

Doesn't make sense to remove or disable the right side throttle - then no one other than the owner could pilot the bike. The right side switch gear is essential for the engine cut-off switch and the starter. No reason to relocate or fabricate replacements if the OEM can still work in tandem.

Many, many years ago one of the young salesmen at my Honda dealership lacked his right hand and his prosthetic was a hook. The kind that looked like a large pair of curved needle nose pliers that he could open and close with muscle movement. As such, he couldn't apply the front brake nor twist the throttle of a conventional bike. He rigged a few inner tube slices like large, wide rubber bands around the right grip that he could stick his hook in between to hold the right bar. On the left he used a thumb lever for the throttle that I think he sourced from a snowmobile. Not really sure though. Could have been from the early days of ATC and quads, I wasn't sure. He also routed the hydraulic line from the right brake pedal/master cylinder to the front to actuate the front disc. This was on a 650 Hawk GT. He wasn't a racer but did take it to track days at Laconia and was more than a respectable rider. Showed me his taillight on my V45 Interceptor!

These days in the aftermath of Mick Doohan's injury and accommodations, I bet he'd have turn-key solutions to most of these issues.
 
STRider said:
Those under tank photos showed what I was suspecting. Two independent sets of cables actuating the common throttle linkage.

I think the police heritage may also be irrelevant. Again, I'd wager this is an accommodation for a rider with disabilities.

Doesn't make sense to remove or disable the right side throttle - then no one other than the owner could pilot the bike. The right side switch gear is essential for the engine cut-off switch and the starter. No reason to relocate or fabricate replacements if the OEM can still work in tandem.

Many, many years ago one of the young salesmen at my Honda dealership lacked his right hand and his prosthetic was a hook. The kind that looked like a large pair of curved needle nose pliers that he could open and close with muscle movement. As such, he couldn't apply the front brake nor twist the throttle of a conventional bike. He rigged a few inner tube slices like large, wide rubber bands around the right grip that he could stick his hook in between to hold the right bar. On the left he used a thumb lever for the throttle that I think he sourced from a snowmobile. Not really sure though. Could have been from the early days of ATC and quads, I wasn't sure. He also routed the hydraulic line from the right brake pedal/master cylinder to the front to actuate the front disc. This was on a 650 Hawk GT. He wasn't a racer but did take it to track days at Laconia and was more than a respectable rider. Showed me his taillight on my V45 Interceptor!

These days in the aftermath of Mick Doohan's injury and accommodations, I bet he'd have turn-key solutions to most of these issues.
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I guess I could see that.
I have to decide which direction to go now. It's either but the left side your ass is, took the left side apart and get a hundred percent functional, or eliminate it and take it back to factory
 
mthonda said:
I guess I could see that.
I have to decide which direction to go now. It's either but the left side your ass is, took the left side apart and get a hundred percent functional, or eliminate it and take it back to factory
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Only you can decide that, but why have a bike with unconventional controls whose suspected advantage - accommodate a disability - has no value to you?

I'd honestly be afraid they would interfere with my control of the bike using knowledge and skills I developed over 50+ years of riding.

That said, there's actually some nice fabrication work there indicating some serious thought and execution to accomplish. Those spools/pullies the cables wrap around remind me of the cable interface unit of a MC-Cruise Cruise control. https://mccruise.com/product/universal-d-dual-spool-ciu-parts-kit/

Each pulley has a brass pin and there's a tab seen at the top of the center section which those pins engage. I bet the center section controls the movement of the throttle butterflies and the pulleys on either side rotate via the cables and the pins engage that tab to move that center tab. The cables on the right would always engage that tab if the throttle grip they're attached to was opened, BUT it won't cause the pulley and cables on the left side to move - I bet the pulleys that the cables wrap around spin free on the shaft independent of each other.. If the throttle controlling the pulley on the left is opened then it also rotates the center part with the tab. But because the brass pin of the pulley on the right is between the one on the left and the tab, when it's pulled both pulleys rotate.

So the behavior I predict is operating the right side throttle has no effect on the left throttle, but operating the left throttle will cause the right throttle to rotate in unison?

Just a guess... (I like mechanical puzzles you might suspect)
 
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SMSW said:
Might as well throw in my 2¢, your pictures look like the left and right grips. Are they both in fact pictures of the left grip? Let's make sure we are all on the same page - left and right sides of the bike are from the rider's perspective when he is sitting on the bike.

Looks to me like picture #1 shows a heated grip controller in the background on the flat part of the fairing below the glove box. Left side of the bike.
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Sorry for the late reply. Not getting notifications. All the pictures are of the left grip only

ST1100Y said:
That those headed grips are installed incorrectly in relation to the wiring route is one thing (risk of braking and/or hinder throttle operation)...

But what I can make out in your photos is some additional, obviously bespoke throttle cable assembly on the left handlebar.
Can't tell though if this serves as either/or throttle operation (i.e. to free the right hand for gun operation/others), or it only helps in locking the actual throttle tube and cables on the right, needs to be figured out...

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I would however start with correcting the route/position of the heater wiring immediately to prevent imminent damage...
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You may be correct. Heated grips may already be damaged.

Found heated grips and heated element for the factory seat disconnected. I tore things down and found the wires were unhooked. I reattached power ground and feed out to the controller but the controller doesn't light up. I am getting current back out of the controller though. Grips show know signs of heat with just a key on and no engine running.

As far as the seat goes I think I'm going to utilize power from one of the police switches and see if I can just send current on and off to it. May not be happy with it but I thought I'd at least try. Probably should have some type of a rheostat
 
mthonda said:
You may be correct. Heated grips may already be damaged.

Found heated grips and heated element for the factory seat disconnected. I tore things down and found the wires were unhooked. I reattached power ground and feed out to the controller but the controller doesn't light up. I am getting current back out of the controller though. Grips show know signs of heat with just a key on and no engine running.

As far as the seat goes I think I'm going to utilize power from one of the police switches and see if I can just send current on and off to it. May not be happy with it but I thought I'd at least try. Probably should have some type of a rheostat
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Some (proper) measures with a multi-meter will enlighten on this, helping to circle down on the source of trouble...
 
I may be repeating something I missed that has been said before, but-
Seems to me that what you have is a modification for a Police bike that has a right handed shooter. I would be interested to find out complete operation of it. It is a concern that has been in the back of my mind, its not new to bikes. But has been gone for a long, long time. Like the 30s or older.
For instance can the left grip control be locked out so only right twist works alone?
 

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Nice work! I think Tom has it figured out. This is a firST for me in 26 years on the ST forums. My firST thought was to allow the right hand free for whatever (pistol?) while underway/at speed.

Anyway… moST intereSTing tech thread this year for me.

Edit: personally, I’d remove it ASAP. JMHO
Edit2: good luck with the rehab! Keep us poSTed please.

John
 
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Just wanted to say a big thanks to everybody trying to figure this old girl out. It's a journey as she hasn't had the easiest life and possibly a sketchy background lol.

I did change the title to be more accurate with the information we have now.

I wish I could upload a video that would show the operation at the throttle bodies. Basically it's designed so that either grip will rotate the throttle independently and the pin just floats in the slot on the throttle that's not being activated. It may be best just to remove it for my use. I don't think I'll be shooting a pistol my right hand while driving LOL.
 
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mthonda said:
may be best just to remove it for my use. I don't think I'll be shooting a pistol my right hand while driving LOL.
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Living in Montana you're probably right, but maybe post it up on eBay. There may be riders in big urban areas that are struggling with their left hand aim that may really find a use for it...:laugh-2x:
 
Bmacleod said:
Living in Montana you're probably right, but maybe post it up on eBay. There may be riders in big urban areas that are struggling with their left hand aim that may really find a use for it...:laugh-2x:
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I'd be happy to swap with somebody for a factory setup if they'd pay shipping.
 
Probably right. May be able to eliminate some of the mechanism on the throttle body linkage also. More than likely I'll need to Source new heated grips since I need to replace the left grip anyway.
 
mthonda said:
Just wanted to say a big thanks to everybody trying to figure this old girl out. It's a journey as she hasn't had the easiest life and possibly a sketchy background lol.

I did change the title to be more accurate with the information we have now.

I wish I could upload a video that would show the operation at the throttle bodies. Basically it's designed so that either grip will rotate the throttle independently and the pin just floats in the slot on the throttle that's not being activated. It may be best just to remove it for my use. I don't think I'll be shooting a pistol my right hand while driving LOL.
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After closer inspection of the photo @John OoSTerhuis included in his most recent post, I notice that those pins are stacked so each throttle engages that center tab independent of the other.

So I revise my earlier description of suspected behavior as being completely independent of each other. :)
 
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