Help removing ST1300 throttle bodies

st1300r said:
.1 to 1ohm

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Thanks Carl, I haven't gotten that far yet and the alternator shop will do the diode checks. I was still checking the wire harness in the first part of 19-9 last night to rule out having to remove the alternator.
 
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You'd be surprized at what a single drop of PB blaster will do on the rubber boots ;)
As I get older, I try to work smart, not hard.
 
Igofar said:
You'd be surprized at what a single drop of PB blaster will do on the rubber boots ;)
As I get older, I try to work smart, not hard.
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C'mon Larry. I bet it took at least four drops of PB Blaster... ;)

I'm assuming that this stuff comes in a spray can. How did you control the amount of PBB that you put in the boots? With a brush or something??? I'll have to try this the next time I take off the TB's (I'll try Kroil instead since this is what I have available). I used a two foot pry bar to pop off the TB's when I removed mine. I like Dave's method although if the lubricant works easier I'll try that first...
 
I used a product called Free to lubricate the boot/intake joints. It comes in a spray can like PB Blaster except without PBs awful smell.
 
sennister said:
Yeah, that was the only way I could get it out. As mentioned you have to be careful as you can break something in the process but sometimes they are stuck on there so hard that this is going to be the only option.

I will have to look at the SM on the process of testing the alternator. I don't know off the top of my head how much resistance is a sign that it is bad. The SM may not even say. Like I mentioned, I haven't had an alternator failure in either ST (knock on wood) so I haven't had to test it.
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The service manual simply says these two checks should show battery voltage. The first one Red White runs directly to battery positive. Obviously it should give the same reading as voltage at the battery. If this circuit was open (fused with the 65a main fuse) there would be no charge current and the alternator could still be good. The other wire White Black out of the regulator/rectifier side is also fused 10a as Starter/Bank Angle sensor and runs through both the ignition switch, engine stop switch, and bank angle sensor. In a long circuit like that its conceivable there might be some voltage drop normally. How much is allowable before it affected charge current output? Dunno. My old BMW allowed .5 volt drop in a similar circuit IIRC. With that bike I had two charge system failures in 40K and only one was an open rotor in the alternator. So I did want to rule out wiring problems before having to remove the alternator.
 
Scooter said:
C'mon Larry. I bet it took at least four drops of PB Blaster... ;)

I'm assuming that this stuff comes in a spray can. How did you control the amount of PBB that you put in the boots? With a brush or something??? I'll have to try this the next time I take off the TB's (I'll try Kroil instead since this is what I have available). I used a two foot pry bar to pop off the TB's when I removed mine. I like Dave's method although if the lubricant works easier I'll try that first...
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PB Blaster does come in a spray can, however, what I do is take a small needle oiler bottle and insert the red spray tube inside the bottle and simply fill it up. That way I can pin point where and how much I use on applications. Your right about the smell, but it does work better than anything I've found off the shelf. You may also try the homemade Acetone/ATF fluid mix someone posted a thread about last month, It works pretty well too.
I started using the PB blaster on hoses when doing coolant flushes etc. A few drops, on the edge of the lower hose, wait a few minutes and a single twist, would often have the hose in my hand without the need for tools.
.02
 
dduelin said:
The service manual simply says these two checks should show battery voltage. The first one Red White runs directly to battery positive. Obviously it should give the same reading as voltage at the battery. If this circuit was open (fused with the 65a main fuse) there would be no charge current and the alternator could still be good. The other wire White Black out of the regulator/rectifier side is also fused 10a as Starter/Bank Angle sensor and runs through both the ignition switch, engine stop switch, and bank angle sensor. In a long circuit like that its conceivable there might be some voltage drop normally. How much is allowable before it affected charge current output? Dunno. My old BMW allowed .5 volt drop in a similar circuit IIRC. With that bike I had two charge system failures in 40K and only one was an open rotor in the alternator. So I did want to rule out wiring problems before having to remove the alternator.
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Without looking at the schematic I would agree that if the circuit is much longer you will see a lower reading. Not sure what the allowable amount is though. I would move forward with the other tests that were shown above. That is where bkra13 found his fault. It will be interesting if the shop will do the rebuild. I think there were some people out in the UK that found shops that will do a rebuild so it is possible but I don't know that I have read about anyone getting one rebuilt here.
 
sennister said:
So I take it PB is rubber safe then. I haven't used it but might have to pick some up.
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I could not say if it is or is not safe for rubber, as I just put it on long enough to break the seal, then wife it off right away.
For the brief time its on the connection, I don't think it would hurt anything, but again, this is just my opinion.
 
Igofar said:
I could not say if it is or is not safe for rubber, as I just put it on long enough to break the seal, then wife it off right away.
For the brief time its on the connection, I don't think it would hurt anything, but again, this is just my opinion.
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For mine, when reassembling I used a very thin coating of silicon grease to act as a lube for re-installation. A few months later I had to pull it again because I blew a coolant line below the TB and they popped off pretty easy. Probably a combo of the silicon and the fact that they had been off a few months earlier. I know that you mentioned that if it is lubed that it may pop off but I haven't seen any sign of that. Made life easier for me anyhow.
 
It only took about an hour to finish to this point. It is out and ready to take Monday to the auto electric shop that told me they would take a look at it. The guy rebuilt the little 280 amp alternator in my BMW R100 several years ago and fixed the Bosch starter in that same bike a year later so I hope he can repair this one.

I was sweating pulling the unit out of its splined drive but it came out easy as pie.
 

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dduelin said:
Use of the lever created a vertical pull on the assembly several times what I could do without mechanical advantage and it took every bit I had. (I am apparently not as big as you. All that exercise jumping to conclusions buffed you Larry!) The bike was lifting off the right foot of the centerstand and resisting so I had to place a knee against the tipover bar on that side. The lever bore against the frame padded by a piece of silicone rubber. The soft nylon loop spread the load as softly as possible. In previous threads on TB removal some one broke off a corner of the casting by prying directly against it so I lifted instead of pried.
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That was me!!! Wait, that's something I shouldn't own up to, right? :)

I finally used the c-clamp and 2x6 method on the front right corner of the TB's. At least now I've got a set of TB's with half the mileage of my previous TB's.
 
Dave, what is going on with the alt. rebuilt? Have nto read any thing?
thanks Bob/ace
dduelin said:
It only took about an hour to finish to this point. It is out and ready to take Monday to the auto electric shop that told me they would take a look at it. The guy rebuilt the little 280 amp alternator in my BMW R100 several years ago and fixed the Bosch starter in that same bike a year later so I hope he can repair this one.

I was sweating pulling the unit out of its splined drive but it came out easy as pie.
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acedantinne said:
Dave, what is going on with the alt. rebuilt? Have nto read any thing?
thanks Bob/ace
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He sent me a PM yesterday (I think) Anyhow the windings were bad. Since no one redos winding and other parts that could be bad as they have 110K on them or so he opted to get the new alternator from Honda rather than doing a rebuild. The mechanic said they couldn't come up with a way to test it even if they were to replace the known bad parts since there wasn't a way to get a pulley on it. So he could get it all back together and find bad bearings or something else. The estimate was about 1/2 the cost of the new one so he passed. I think he said that all the parts he need to order came to about $700. That was the new alternator and some other stuff that he was going to replace while in there.
 
Yes that about sums it up. The shop that tried to help could not test the alternator as a unit but they did take it apart at my request to check the individual components. I hoped maybe it was brushes or something cheap and reasonably easy to fix and the repaired unit would have a high probability of working when it was again buried in the abyss. Turns out the rotor was open circuit. The part is available for about $215. If I went that route I would have about $300 in a high mileage alternator that couldn't be bench tested only field tested. A new alternator is $510. I bit the bullet and bought a new one along with all the hoses and rubber bits in the cooling system that are inaccessible or hard to get to. Replacing coolant hoses were already on my mind before this happened.

Props to Honda of Jacksonville. They matched the cheapest OEM prices I found online for each of the 16 items and threw in a small discount on top of that total to salve the pain. The parts manager called me this morning and said the parts came in today. I ordered them Wednesday afternoon about 4 pm. That's pretty good service.
 
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Did you get a new alternator sub harness?
All the ones I have seen the insulation is brittle & cracks when bent.
A new one is about $22.
Kevin
 
Kessie said:
Did you get a new alternator sub harness?
All the ones I have seen the insulation is brittle & cracks when bent.
A new one is about $22.
Kevin
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No, but I will check it. Thanks!
 
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