H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6

I installed the F2 LED headlights yesterday along with some new marker lights.
Below are some side-by-side before and after pics for comparison.
My ST1300 had a Phillips 45W headlight as a starting point.

F2.1A.jpg

(Above Pic) New F2 on right, old 45W Halogen on left

F2.2.jpg

(Above Pic) F2 and Crystal Blue Marker Light on Right. Stock setup on left.

F2.3.jpg

(Above Pic) New F2 Lights and Crystal Blue Marker Lights both sides

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My analysis: The F2 lights are extremely bright. The light is a brilliant white. Where I always rode with my high beams on during the daylight hours, this will no longer be necessary. The field of view of the lights is both far reaching and wide. I tested the low and high beams in an alley at night and the results are outstanding. The high beams are simply incredible. They produce strong light for a very long distance. For those who have fog lights, these F2 lights IMO make fog lights and running lights obsolete. I had to readjust my headlight focus up/down to not blind oncoming drivers. No issues with installation except for having to cut off the bottom two tabs that come on the light. And the extra cable length may need to be tied off on your own bikes.
 
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Nice photos Jay! I did notice that the bulbs were tilted differently in the last picture. The heat spreaders should be vertical. You can grab the fan housing and twist the bulb so the beam is flat.

The bulbs come 2 in a box from Cindy. You are getting Wholesale price. That is like $20 per bulb.....
I agree that the light from the F2 is so good that you do not need fog or driving lights. They are brighter and easier on your eyes than HIDs....

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?155154-Why-I-prefer-LEDs-to-HIDs&highlight=

Sorry, have to augment my statement above. Properly mounted low and aimed flat, fog lights will improve any lighting, by creating shadows that improve 3d perception. ...
 
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spiderman302 said:
Nice photos Jay! I did notice that the bulbs were tilted differently in the last picture. The heat spreaders should be vertical. You can grab the fan housing and twist the bulb so the beam is flat.
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I tried to get them vertical, but they seemed to slide in and lock into that slightly tilted position. I'll try to twist the fan housings again.
 
pumper316 said:
I have the cyclops 7000 lumens leds installed on my ST. It does take a little playing around with the clip along with some bending and finessing of the clip in order to make it fit. I had the Evitek G6's on my ST before I switched over to the Cyclops, great beam pattern and brightness.
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I did manage to get the bulbs installed by bending the spring...... I went for a night drive a couple nights ago and found the beam pattern and brightness to be fantastic. I did have to cut the rubber boots and make the hole larger for the lights.... Just wondering if you also had to modify the rubber boots............. Greg
 
GregO1969 said:
I did manage to get the bulbs installed by bending the spring...... I went for a night drive a couple nights ago and found the beam pattern and brightness to be fantastic. I did have to cut the rubber boots and make the hole larger for the lights.... Just wondering if you also had to modify the rubber boots............. Greg
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Yep! Had to do that as well.
 
Maybe I can explain the small differences. Go get some popcorn.....

First if you have the original H4 3800 with shields, the cyclops 7000, the G6, the DEDC, or the new F2 bulb they are all amazing and create DOT compliant beam patterns. This is due to the shield under the low beam. The shield works because the low beam is forward of the focus point. The high beam is closest to the focus point. BUT...

To help understand, get your old mag light and focus the beam to a point. Now, slightly defocus the beam and it will be bigger dot. defocus it more and it becomes a donut with a dark spot in the middle. It only took a very small offset to change this pattern... Lets look under the microscope.

If you measure the distance between the back to back emitters on the 7000 or 3800 they are offset by 0.235 inches. It uses two copper plates on a thick AL heatspreader. Remember the donut. These bulbs have the dark spot in the middle of the high beam.....

xhp50_7000.jpg

The G6 reduced this distance to 0.175 inches. It uses two plates on a thin heatspreader. This one is like the wider spot with no hole.

G6_led.jpg

The DEDC reduced it more to 0.078 inches. It uses two plates sandwiched between two heatspreaders. This one is a more narrow spot.

DEDC_led.jpg

The F2 reduced it to 0.037 inches. It uses ONE plate sandwiched between two heatspreaders. Oh wait..

The Halogen bulb filament is a coil of wire that is 0.068 inches in diameter!!!!

The F2 led emitters are now EXACTLY where the surface of the H4 Halogen filament is !!!

They are the same length of the coil 0.225 inches and are 0.068 wide.

Optically the F2 is the same as the Halogen bulb !!! Except it is way brighter.

It is all about the focus. Now you know.

Time to go for a ride........
 
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But the F2 is not prefect, there is a small difference in the placement of the low beam, and I relayed this back to the OEM. However as it is, this light blows the doors off all LED bulbs that came before it...

That is, this is the perfect autobahn light! It puts the light better down the road. as bright as it is it does a great job of lighting up the sides of the road too..

On the other hand the previous lights might be prefered by some because they create a wider and taller beam.
The thickness of the heat spreader effects the width and height of the beam.
So you have some choices on what beam width you prefer for your riding style.
 
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I was concerned at the power level that there could be a problem until I read the technical brief on the phillips [now Lumileds] csp chips. It is a flip chip so there are no bond wires, the substrate heat slug is directly soldered to the copper heat spreader. So it is able to dissipate heat much better than any of the previous led chips....
 
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Just want to confirm a couple of F2 things. Better to ask, then regret. The translated instructions at Step-1 say "pull up the socket". I am guessing this means that you can un-couple the fan body from the bulb, for assembly ?? And also,, the two lower/smaller tabs on the bulbs flange should be cut away with a pair of side-cutter pliers, as in prior bulbs ??
thanks, Cat'
 
Yes the mounting ring can be pulled off the body. There is a single spring loaded ball bearing that hold the ring in place. It allows you to twist the bulb for a flat beam for a motorcycle, or twist left or right to get the 'road sign' up-tilt for autos for which ever side of the road you drive on. It is the standard H4 plate so you have to break off the lower tabs to get it into a dual headlight motorcycle.... I score it with the side cutter then snap it off with the pliers....
 
Catmandu2 said:
And also,, the two lower/smaller tabs on the bulbs flange should be cut away with a pair of side-cutter pliers, as in prior bulbs ??
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Yes. I have no idea about 'pull up the socket' though. Me I'd give the fan and bulb body a little twist to see if they are meant to separate. There's been no mention of cutting the rubber surround for the assembly.
 
jspringator said:
I emailed the Evitek lady and haven’t heard anything back.
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It took several days for Cindy to reply to my email. All told, it took about 10 days to get the request, order and confirmation completed. I'm still waiting for mine to arrive. I expect at least two weeks and probably three weeks from shipment date to arrival. Cindy did not keep in constant contact. Once she receives payment, she then processes your order. Expect that to take several days, alone. I haven't heard anyone on this forum complain about not receiving their order.
 
Apropos of nothing, I've just placed an order via email. I received a response in 2 hours, a request for payment in 24, and just this morn, a notification of pending shipment.
 
Ok here is another closer look. The leds emitter surfaces are actually 90 mills apart, but that is extremely close to the 68 mill diameter of the halogen filament.....

F2_cut_halogen1.jpg

go back to post #48

the back to back emitter surfaces

3800 ---- 300 mills
G6 ------ 210 mills
DEDC --- 175 mills
T8 ------- 175 mills
F2 ------- 090 mills

the progression in improving LED focus....
 
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