H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6

k2mpw said:
Well I pulled the offender back out this afternoon. I think more of it came apart than was supposed to cause the picture is a little different than Spiderman302's pic. I shot the base with D5 Deoxit and the armature too. Putting back together had me thinking, this aint gonna work. It did go back and I powered it up on the bench with 8 volts. The thing spun up without a complaint! I shot a video of the right side fan at the turn of the key. The video is on Youtube here. Back to a happy clam but I'm buying a backup set tonight! Safego offered me a 30% discount on a replacement set due to me being out of warranty. Amazon has the set for $50 so a 30% discount works for me.
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Did your "fix" stay fixed ? I put a touch of light oil on my whining fans (had them since summer of 2016 ) a few weeks ago but they started up again making noise yesterday. What lube will work ? Grease might be too heavy but oil is too light. Opinions welcomed!
 
mcycleboy said:
Did your "fix" stay fixed ? I put a touch of light oil on my whining fans (had them since summer of 2016 ) a few weeks ago but they started up again making noise yesterday. What lube will work ? Grease might be too heavy but oil is too light. Opinions welcomed!
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Since using the D5 Deoxit, its been quiet as a mouse. I guess the threat of getting replaced by a new bulb scared it into being quiet!
 
So, what are peoples thoughts on mixing and matching bulbs vs using 2 identical ones.

My though process would be to use an F2 in one bulb for the distance, and another bulb being something that does more side of the road for twisties etc.

Something from Spiderman's existing lists in the thread vs just grabbing some unknown bulb out there in the webiverse.

Obviously there'd be some brightness issues comparing both bulbs, as well as potential color variations. And the bulbs themselves would look different if you looked in the headlight housing when the bike wasn't running :)
 
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The optics are primarily a function of the reflector, though you can modify the beam somewhat by varying the location of the light source (filament or LED). I'd suggest you give @spiderman302 a PM with this question. Most bulbs out there are designed to emulate the original halogen lamps and succeed to varying degrees. I doubt one will give you a significantly wider beam spread unless it's an accident and their design failed. Again, ask Spidey, I'm no lighting expert. Please let us know what he says.
 
Yes....
Go back to page 16, post 318. The shape and location of the leds will modify the beam pattern.
If you remember the Maglight flashlight, you can focus the beam by twisting the reflector housing.
A small change in the focus point takes the beam from a spot to a wide beam pattern.

Different environments require different patterns.
If you live where you can not see the forest for the trees using spot lights might not make sense.
If you live in wide open flat lands where roads are long and straight using a flood light is not the best option.....
Yes, you can try older bulbs that have less focus to get what you might want.
We have many choices to add extra spots, driving, passing, low, fog, flood, gutter, alley, backup lights to our rides.
I have added linear spread lens (wide angle glass) to some spot lights to spread out the beam pattern.
I like to run a mixture of lights. There is no one solution...........

The development of F2 was to get something that works just like the original halogen bulb that it replaces...
But we get more light with less power.......
 
Only one reason I'd have a halogen mixed with an LED... the human eye can see more stuff with a yellower light at night. That said, the much greater lumen output trumps that IMHO. With the F2's I find I don't need auxiliary lighting to see at night, they are plenty bright. As for a different "focus" to see stuff to the side, the reflectors are what they are, focus shouldn't change LED vs. halogen..... again I find the F2's more than adequately light up the sides with more lumens than a halogen.
 
RaYzerman said:
Only one reason I'd have a halogen mixed with an LED... the human eye can see more stuff with a yellower light at night. That said, the much greater lumen output trumps that IMHO. With the F2's I find I don't need auxiliary lighting to see at night, they are plenty bright. As for a different "focus" to see stuff to the side, the reflectors are what they are, focus shouldn't change LED vs. halogen..... again I find the F2's more than adequately light up the sides with more lumens than a halogen.
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I wasn't really thinking mixing halogen and led, I was thinking more one F2 for the distance, and one of the other "recommended but not an F2" options for a little more width. (having not seen how F2's function in person...) I guess I'm trying to find something that covers both bases - long range as well as illuminating the ditches closer in - which no single product seems to do all.

If I was that worried about an F2 and a non F2 being used together they make an F2 in a fog yellow 3200K so I could always have one of each.
https://www.amazon.ca/Alla-Lighting...w+h4+9003&qid=1592409942&s=automotive&sr=1-45
I don't think there's an legal issues in my area about having a "yellow fog light" on all the time but I'm not sure if it would bother drivers. Being an F2 bulb everything should be optically the same - other than the color. The catch would be I still would have more distance than width, which is why I asked for thoughts on mixing LED bulbs.

I think I'll end up with a set of F2's and a set of B6's(W6) and either do two of the same or one of each - likely a trial by error evaluation.

I'm spending way too much time trying to find the right bulb at the best price and can't seem to make my mind up. I was ready to pull the trigger on the M1's (5w under the F2 and a built in power supply so no big transformer wart) but looking at the satisfaction ratings on the only Amazon seller I can find gave me second thoughts.
 
This is what I'm dealing with till my replacement F2 LED comes in. The first photo shows the burn't out LED and the second photo is a Halogen on the drivers left and LED on the right. (only about 40 hours on it when it burn't out)
My replacement is due to arrive the beginning of July till the end of August.
I haven't ridden at night yet with this combination so I don't know the results.
 

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kiltman said:
This is what I'm dealing with till my replacement F2 LED comes in. The first photo shows the burn't out LED and the second photo is a Halogen on the drivers left and LED on the right. (only about 40 hours on it when it burn't out)
My replacement is due to arrive the beginning of July till the end of August.
I haven't ridden at night yet with this combination so I don't know the results.
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Well it's got to be better than driving with only 1 headlight.
 
My order update: arrived two days ago, packaged as before: bundled in bubble wrap, inside plain cardboard box. Have not installed yet.
 
Al-Hala said:
My order update: arrived two days ago, packaged as before: bundled in bubble wrap, inside plain cardboard box. Have not installed yet.
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So a month and a half on the slow boat from China. I've seen worse! Good luck with the install.
 
I came across this LED bulb today. It says it fits a Honda ST1100/ST1300. But...

16000LM H4 LED Motorcycle Headlight Bulbs Lamp 6000K for Motor High Low Beam
www.ebay.com

16000LM H4 LED Motorcycle Headlight Bulbs Lamp 6000K for Motor High Low Beam | eBay

<li> This item is One piece extremely bright high power csp LED chips 6000K xenon white H4 Hi/Lo Beam LED headlight bulb, mini design,direclty plug and play for only motorcycles. 16000 lumens especially designed for replacing the motorbikes headlamp</li> <li> </li>.
www.ebay.com

1592584859394.png1592584859394.png

Chris
 
This type of bulb works only in a full round head light, all of the light goes up in the reflector. if you look at the top (and bottom) of the ST reflector it is flat. light that goes up from the bulb gets wasted in our headlights and any rectangular reflector. Our headlights and rectangular headlights do better with leds that project to the sides. Because of this halogen bulbs are less efficient in rectangular headlights.....

Since the high beam and low beam only use the top of the reflector. the "high beam will only be a brighter more focused low beam.
Since the high beam and low beam are on the same plane, the high beam will not project above the low beam.

If you look at the F2, the high beam led is offset lower than the low beam led, this puts the high beam focus just above the low beam.
The F2 high beam led spills into the bottom sides of the reflector which will give a better beam pattern.....

Oh, one more thing. All the heat is dissipated into the headlight housing where there is not much air flow......
 
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What spiderman says....... These are the ones I use, and I look for the pic with the F2 yellow box, which are the Eviteks..... it seems to me many of the LED headlamps now are re-packaged F2's under their own label, but hard to tell. There are others that are likey good but I stay with the tried and true until I know better. Very close to DOT, but as spiderman says, that's a whole other discussion for another day, I'm sure more developments are evolving..
This is only one listing, they're changing all the time, prices vary, I've had them as low as $40.
www.ebay.com

H4 9003 F2 LED Headlight 72W 12000LM Cree Chips White 6K Driving Front H/L Bulbs | eBay

H4 (HB2, 9003), H7, H11(H8, H9, H16 Japanese), 9004(HB1), 9005(HB3, H10), 9006(HB4), 9007(HB5), 9012(HIR2), H13(9008). 2 x F2 LED Headlight Bulbs. Power Per Bulb:72W/high beam,36W/low beam. Socket Types.
www.ebay.com
 
I know this is an old, very long thread, but wanted to give my account of install of the Evitek F2 in my 2001 ST1100. I've read this post in its entirety. Thanks to the many quality contributions which made my install much easier.
#1: Ordered one set of Evitek F2 from Cindy at cindy@evitekhid.com on June 1. I had emailed her earlier this day and she responded quickly, with a quote of $46.80, (USD) which included shipping. She requested I make this payment through paypal at email: linglay@126.com. She confirmed payment received on June 2. Confirmed shipping on June 5. I didn't actually receive them (Vancouver Island, BC) until July 20th.
2: You must use the adaptor rings on the ST1100. I ordered these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06Y6LZ6MK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$19.95 CAD shipped.
3: I think if you have small hands, are flexible and have a good understanding of how everything fits in there, you can probably do this going from underneath the fairing and thus avoid some disassembly of the fairing. I was able to remove the bulbs using this method, but you are working blind when reassembling. I decided to remove the windshield and the two other trim pieces. The removal of these pieces is literally a 5 minute job and probably suits the majority of DIYers here. I found this job much easier by removing these pieces. Both methods are previously described in this thread and I won't add to that.
-what wasn't clear to me previously was the new F2 bulbs allow the removal of a ring which is forward of the flange at the back of the bulb. Removal of this ring allows reinstall of the rubber boot without cutting it. The bulbs fit in there with what appears to be adequate ventilation of the little fans and the bulbs, housing, wiring and ballast all have a have a high quality look and feel to them. There is adequate room behind the fairing to secure the ballasts and wiring using a couple of locking nylon straps.
4: I'm not much of a night rider anymore and but really wanted the sharper light penetration of LED lights for daytime conspicuousness. I did try them out after dark, however, and the difference is.....stunning. I did not have a single oncoming vehicle 'flash' me during a app. 10 km after dark ride.
 
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