I wonder if this is due to the shims used in the St1100 that aren't needed in the ST1300. I've seen two posts here about them making it more difficult to close the bale. Several others said they had no problem.paulcb said:
H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6
- Thread starter spiderman302
- Start date
I've been casually following the development of LED bulbs. I still feel like they're still not quite "plug and play" ready, but integrated heatsinks is a big step in the right direction. Have you go a link to the bulbs you're referring to?
The technology is rapidly improving, but just like overclocking computer CPU's heat rejection remains a limiting factor. The passively cooled emitters so far do not deliver as great an output as the actively cooled examples - even from the same company. The CPU guys and the motorcycle engine guys both went to liquid cooling. Maybe we need water-cooled headlights?
Sounds plausible... the shim pushes the bulb back a small amount which might interfere a little with getting that dastardly bale hook underneath the tab.
I haven't seen these yet in the H4 configuration, only the H7. The first two images are similar bulbs by different companies. The third looks entirely different. All three have the heatsink built into the body of the bulb.
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These things are buyer beware. Their numbers do not add up. The bottom one I can not find. However Leds are 50% efficient. So a 20 to 30 watt led will create 10 to 15 watts of heat. If all of it is dissipated inside of the lamp housing, where there is no air flow, then the LEDs will over heat and have a short life span.
There are some vendors and reviewers posting measured data that maybe worth looking at. Bulbfacts and HR Revolution to name a few....
There are some vendors and reviewers posting measured data that maybe worth looking at. Bulbfacts and HR Revolution to name a few....
One of my original LED Headlights (low beam) quit working. You could see light at the diode, but it wasn't bright at all.
I'm going to figure that all this On/Off stuff with my modulators (I do use them a lot during my commuting/Lane Splitting) probably has a lot to do with it failing. I just happened to have another LED Headlight from when my '12 had one fail on my '16 WeSTOC trip. So I first swapped the plugs to try out the spare and it worked fine, so that told me it was the light.
Since they were exactly the same lights, all I had to do to swap them was to just twist and pull, push and twist. With the exception of needing to remove the windshield, windshield cowl and the instruments. Took about 1.5 hours total.
I've ran it yesterday and today and so far so good.
Although time wise, might have been a short time, I think I put them in in 2016, but mileage wise it's been at least 30 K miles, of mostly commuting!
I'm going to figure that all this On/Off stuff with my modulators (I do use them a lot during my commuting/Lane Splitting) probably has a lot to do with it failing. I just happened to have another LED Headlight from when my '12 had one fail on my '16 WeSTOC trip. So I first swapped the plugs to try out the spare and it worked fine, so that told me it was the light.
Since they were exactly the same lights, all I had to do to swap them was to just twist and pull, push and twist. With the exception of needing to remove the windshield, windshield cowl and the instruments. Took about 1.5 hours total.
I've ran it yesterday and today and so far so good.
Although time wise, might have been a short time, I think I put them in in 2016, but mileage wise it's been at least 30 K miles, of mostly commuting!
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Over the past 5 years there have been a lot of different LED bulbs, along with the various modifications put into my ST. I can easily change the entire bulbs and mounts in less than 5 minutes.
Kneel in front of the bike and reach under the Headlight. Once you have done it a few times you could replace just the bulb in less than a minute. No tools required......
Yes, I did a few changes from the top and it was a pain, until I tried from underneath....
I am glad that you put a lot of time on one bulb. I was switching out bulbs a lot so I do not have anything that has a lot of hours on it yet.... Thanks for the info..
I am currently testing a new bulb that has a wider pattern but it is only 18 watts. I really miss the brighter F2. I am waiting on another set of bulbs.
When the time changes and the commute gets dark the F2's will be back in...........
Kneel in front of the bike and reach under the Headlight. Once you have done it a few times you could replace just the bulb in less than a minute. No tools required......
Yes, I did a few changes from the top and it was a pain, until I tried from underneath....
I am glad that you put a lot of time on one bulb. I was switching out bulbs a lot so I do not have anything that has a lot of hours on it yet.... Thanks for the info..
I am currently testing a new bulb that has a wider pattern but it is only 18 watts. I really miss the brighter F2. I am waiting on another set of bulbs.
When the time changes and the commute gets dark the F2's will be back in...........
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My experience with LED headlights is they don't last much longer than a halogen. The 50,000 hours is for the LED chip in a lab environment, not mounted on a light bulb...and it is only estimated.
But the light output is much better, so I'll stick with the LEDs.
Chris
I have been thinking about getting a spare set. My original F2's continue to perform very well,, along with the Kisan LED modulator. The fan effect seems much gentler, than it was when I first tested them with my old SDC H4 modulator. However,,, they are not likely to last indefinitely,,, so it would be good to have direct replacements on hand. They were a bargain when I first purchased them,, but I will have to scan to market to see what is out there now. I will keep watching this thread for sure,,, Cheers,, CAt'
sirbike
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I finally brought my 03 up to par with my 06 last night. F2s installed. Did it without removing fairings.
I snipped the boots a couple millimeters as it seemed that as much as I pushed them on they pushed back on the capsule. Not enough to dislodge the detent ball but I still
wanted to relieve that pressure. The difference between led and halogen is so vast. And to think that back in the day my CB350 light was so much weaker than halogen.
Had a stock vs led at the same time photo op.
Nice to see the beam patterns match.
Riding with F2s since May and no problems with head on traffic even on small two lane roads.
I snipped the boots a couple millimeters as it seemed that as much as I pushed them on they pushed back on the capsule. Not enough to dislodge the detent ball but I still
wanted to relieve that pressure. The difference between led and halogen is so vast. And to think that back in the day my CB350 light was so much weaker than halogen.Had a stock vs led at the same time photo op.
Nice to see the beam patterns match.
Riding with F2s since May and no problems with head on traffic even on small two lane roads.
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Indeed, getting better LEDs is only part of the equation.
Once installed one has to adjust the beam so that it is correctly aimed. This does two things. It prevents glare but also gets the most light down the road. What is worse is that there are many cars/bikes on the road that have their low beams aimed too low, so they can not see very far. This puts pedestrians and bambi at risk of becoming hood ornaments. Not being able to see far enough ahead is the biggest factor in night time accidents.
So there is this new blade LED bulb (B6) that is a little different than the others that look like it...
I had made the suggestion to make the leds longer than the halogen filament.
This is because the wire filament is 3D and the leds are 2D.
The filament emits light off the back end which makes it effectively "optically longer".
by making the leds longer it spreads the light wider, better lighting up the sides of the road.
This bulb might work in those headlights that have poor patterns with leds and halogen bulbs.
This configuration creates a very thin ribbon of light on the horizon. This reduces foreground glare and puts the light where it is needed. It makes a very good low beam and an excellent fog beam pattern.
This bulb has the solution for the dark spot and provides a wider beam pattern.
notice that there are six leds on each side on the low beam.
This bulb is only 18 watts (measured) which is half as bright as the F2/M2 bulbs. But is twice as bright as the halogen bulb.
Because the leds are spread out and being lower power it does not project as far as the F2/M2 bulbs.
This would be a good "in between" bulb. Wait What !!!!
=======================================================================================================
EDIT:
The NEW "under powered" 18 watt bulbs test to be exactly equivalent (but better) than a standard halogen bulb. This technically makes them DOT compliant !!!!!!!
Since I was focused on getting a bulb that gets us to the goal line, I blinked and missed this important mile stone.....
=======================================================================================================
In the H4 version the power is the same for High and Low beams. When you switch to Hi beam, instead of turning off the low beam the power is split between the low and high leds. This makes for a less powerful hi beam, but it does keep the light on the sides of the road. I have been using them on my bike for the last three months. (I will go back to the F2 when the time changes and I have to commute in the dark, to me distance matters... )
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...ml?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.10.444577b7xKlc8x
not yet on amazon......
Once installed one has to adjust the beam so that it is correctly aimed. This does two things. It prevents glare but also gets the most light down the road. What is worse is that there are many cars/bikes on the road that have their low beams aimed too low, so they can not see very far. This puts pedestrians and bambi at risk of becoming hood ornaments. Not being able to see far enough ahead is the biggest factor in night time accidents.
So there is this new blade LED bulb (B6) that is a little different than the others that look like it...
I had made the suggestion to make the leds longer than the halogen filament.
This is because the wire filament is 3D and the leds are 2D.
The filament emits light off the back end which makes it effectively "optically longer".
by making the leds longer it spreads the light wider, better lighting up the sides of the road.
This bulb might work in those headlights that have poor patterns with leds and halogen bulbs.
This configuration creates a very thin ribbon of light on the horizon. This reduces foreground glare and puts the light where it is needed. It makes a very good low beam and an excellent fog beam pattern.
This bulb has the solution for the dark spot and provides a wider beam pattern.
notice that there are six leds on each side on the low beam.
This bulb is only 18 watts (measured) which is half as bright as the F2/M2 bulbs. But is twice as bright as the halogen bulb.
Because the leds are spread out and being lower power it does not project as far as the F2/M2 bulbs.
This would be a good "in between" bulb. Wait What !!!!
=======================================================================================================
EDIT:
The NEW "under powered" 18 watt bulbs test to be exactly equivalent (but better) than a standard halogen bulb. This technically makes them DOT compliant !!!!!!!
Since I was focused on getting a bulb that gets us to the goal line, I blinked and missed this important mile stone.....
=======================================================================================================
In the H4 version the power is the same for High and Low beams. When you switch to Hi beam, instead of turning off the low beam the power is split between the low and high leds. This makes for a less powerful hi beam, but it does keep the light on the sides of the road. I have been using them on my bike for the last three months. (I will go back to the F2 when the time changes and I have to commute in the dark, to me distance matters... )
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...ml?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.10.444577b7xKlc8x
not yet on amazon......
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I relate to the comment about headlamps aimed too low.... when I lead rides, those who are visible have their lights aimed correctly, and those I can't see readily have their lights aimed far too low and are not aware. I'd recommend you have someone ride your bike and you ride ahead of it at distances of 100-200 feet or even more, and with the ST's adjuster knob in the middle, adjust your lights to where they are just starting to glare. Believe me, you want to be seen.
It's not just being seen...but to see.
What a lot of people miss, is that when the light is too bright up close, it closes the pupil of your eye to compensate. The net effect is that you see really really well up close. But it is useless because you are over-riding the headlights. And the area out where you need to see, you can't...because your pupil has closed.
Chris
What a lot of people miss, is that when the light is too bright up close, it closes the pupil of your eye to compensate. The net effect is that you see really really well up close. But it is useless because you are over-riding the headlights. And the area out where you need to see, you can't...because your pupil has closed.
Chris
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The NEW "under powered" 18 watt bulbs test to be exactly equivalent (but better) than a standard halogen bulb. This technically makes them DOT compliant !!!!!!!
Since I was focused on getting a bulb that gets us to the goal line, I blinked and missed this important mile stone.....
Since I was focused on getting a bulb that gets us to the goal line, I blinked and missed this important mile stone.....
Just got around to installing my F2 LED headlights on the Honda ST after my HID lights finally died. Nice and bright! 
OP
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I just switched back to the F2's since I am commuting to home at night now. I was going back and looking at the various AUX lights that I have and testing them.
It use to be with the old halogens that when I flipped on the AUX lights it was amazing. Now with the LED headlights I can barley tell that I turned on the AUX lights!
The F2 high beam on a dark road from the ST1300 is really something. Those who have them know.....
With all the commuter traffic, I rarely get to use the high beam...
It use to be with the old halogens that when I flipped on the AUX lights it was amazing. Now with the LED headlights I can barley tell that I turned on the AUX lights!
The F2 high beam on a dark road from the ST1300 is really something. Those who have them know.....
With all the commuter traffic, I rarely get to use the high beam...
Thank you for all of your testing and reporting on LED lights!
One unexpected characteristic of the F2's, is that on high beam,,, I see a strong reflection off of road signs, even in the daytime. On low beam, my Kisan modulator kicks in, and I see the pulse reflected off the signage, although at a shorter distance. Yes,, my beams are properly aimed. It is just that the F2's are very strong and focused. I like them so much,, that I purchased a backup set for my shelf,,, due to the low cost. My 1st set continues to perform well,,, with over 30,000kms on them,, although the fans are a bit noisy on warmup. Cheers,,, CAt'
So reading the threads and looking at the photos etc, I'm still a bit confused.
Are these the F2's? (emitters side by side) *EDIT these are not F2's*
If so what are these that were listed? (emitters almost in a line) *EDIT these are F2's*
And finally what about the B6's? https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...ml?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.10.444577b7xKlc8x
Thanks.
Are these the F2's? (emitters side by side) *EDIT these are not F2's*
If so what are these that were listed? (emitters almost in a line) *EDIT these are F2's*
H4 9003 LED Headlight Bulb Hi/Lo Beam Conversion Kit SAFEGO 72W 6500K 12000LM(6000LMx2) H4 Bulb Extremely Bright Led Chips Waterproof Ip67 360°Degree Lighting for Car Headlight Replacement, 2 Pack, Headlight Bulbs - Amazon Canada
H4 9003 LED Headlight Bulb Hi/Lo Beam Conversion Kit SAFEGO 72W 6500K 12000LM(6000LMx2) H4 Bulb Extremely Bright Led Chips Waterproof Ip67 360°Degree Lighting for Car Headlight Replacement, 2 Pack in Headlight Bulbs.
www.amazon.ca
And finally what about the B6's? https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...ml?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.10.444577b7xKlc8x
Thanks.
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