G2 Tamer Thottle Tube

mitch96

mitch96

Joined
Mar 6, 2006
Messages
294
Location
WestCentralFla
Hi,
I don't know which sub forum this should go so I'm just tossing it out there. I never liked the throttle response (on/off/on transition on my '05 St 1300. I't would "kaCHUNK" when I transitioned on or off the throttle. Off was no problem, just pull in the clutch before rolling off the throttle. The ON part was the problem, especially when I was coming on the throttle going into a turn. The bike would do this little wiggle, like a chick with a cute *** would do. Nice to look at but sucks on a bike in a turn!! I tightened up the throttle cables, better but not what I wanted. T.T. fuel pressure reg made it better but no joy in mudville.. I read on the FJR boards about this throttle tube from G2 ergonomics that took away the crappy throttle response on the '06 FJR so I thought I would give it a shot.. Well the damn thing works and works just fine!! It has a cam built into the throttle tube that extends the range of the throttle action which pulls in the F.I. really smooth. Rode about 50 miles today and hit some of my favorite entrance/exit ramps to check it out and I'm very pleased. No twisties down here in So Fla...... flat, flat, flat...... drat.
No more kaChunk in the turns YAHOOOOOOO... The only problem is I now have to relearn my right hand for the new throttle!! $60, new hand grip and about 1 hrs work. I had to cut the grip off and the new tube has knurls on it which made it a bit of a chore to install, but worth it to me..
First ride and I didn't notice any difference and then I realized I did not re adjust the throttle cables. Ten min later I was in throttle nirvana.

No connection with this guy and as always YMMV
Mitch
Flat, Flat Hollyweird Fla...

http://g2ergo.com/shop/catalog/Street-4-1.html
 
Mitch. I moved this to the correct sub-forum, although it could also go into handlebars and footpegs or known issues or st1300 tech.. LOL

I also renamed the thread so people would know the product name in case they did a search later.

Thanks for the info, how hard was it to install?
 
Hi Joe,
It's pretty easy as farkles go... Just like if you were gonna lube the throttle cables. Loosen the throttle nuts (sounds weird.... loosen your nuts?) Remove the bar end weight, remove the hand grip. Remove the two phillips screws that hold the housing together and open her up. Get a needle nose pliers and remove the cables from the throttle tube. Replace the throttle tube with the G2 tube. It's aluminum where as the Honda unit is plastic.. If you put them end to end you can see the cam which is at about 180? from where the throttle cables hook up to the tube.. Put everybody back in their right place and re adjust the cables. I adjusted mine to very little to no slack........ Thats it!! Like I said I spent more time trying to re install the grip than anything else.. On the web site they talk about the "400" tube and the ST tube has F4 on it..

BTW I did not see the thread posted to New Posts.. What happened? When It got switched did it go missing from new posts???
 
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mitch96 said:
Hi Joe,
It's pretty easy as farkles go... Just like if you were gonna lube the throttle cables. Loosen the throttle nuts (sounds weird.... loosen your nuts?) Remove the bar end weight, remove the hand grip. Remove the two phillips screws that hold the housing together and open her up. Get a needle nose pliers and remove the cables from the throttle tube. Replace the throttle tube with the G2 tube. It's aluminum where as the Honda unit is plastic.. If you put them end to end you can see the cam which is at about 180? from where the throttle cables hook up to the tube.. Put everybody back in their right place and re adjust the cables. I adjusted mine to very little to no slack........ Thats it!! Like I said I spent more time trying to re install the grip than anything else.. On the web site they talk about the "400" tube and the ST tube has F4 on it..
Click to expand...

I guess I'm curious as to what this does other than provide a smoother movement to control the cables. But, if that's a cure, I'm all for it.

mitch96 said:
BTW I did not see the thread posted to New Posts.. What happened? When It got switched did it go missing from new posts???
Click to expand...

New posts are posts YOU haven't read yet, since you wrote this one it won't show up since you're basically already read it.
 
I contacted them about an ST specific device. They replied that they procurred a throttle tube and modified it for the ST. I didn't followup only because I have the Symtec heated grips and didn't want to hassle with changing them again. I didn't get a good explanation of how it improves the throttle, so I thought I'd save my money.

Dean
 
I guess I'm curious as to what this does other than provide a smoother movement to control the cables. But, if that's a cure, I'm all for it.

I believe it slows down the cable movment for a given input,I think. If you are really really smooth and slow you don't get the kaChunk. When your zipping into a corner you want to crack the throttle ASAP to stabilize things. The Honda with the direct 1 to 1 input from the throttle was too slow to achieve the smoothness needed. The cam does this for you.


Tnx for the info on the posts..

mitch
 
(Edit: Looks like Mitch kinda beat me to it but...)

deanrd said:
I didn't get a good explanation of how it improves the throttle...
Click to expand...

The cam on the stock throttle tube has a standard radius all the way around, which means that x degrees of rotation at the right grip opens the butterflies on the throttle bodies some amount that's always proportional to the position of the grip. G2's cam uses a compoind radius which opens the butterflies a little less in the "earlier" parts of the grip rotation and makes up the difference in the "later" parts. The larger ratio in the earlier part means it takes more grip movement to open the butterflies the same amount, giving you much finer control over the throttle.

Think of it as the difference between driving a 4" gear with another 4" gear versus a 2" gear. Every degree of turn on the 4" drive gear results in the same amount of turn on the 4" driven gear. If you switch to a 2" drive gear, it takes two degrees of movement to make the driven gear turn one degree. That means you get more precise control over the position of the driven gear. Changing the shape of the cam does the same thing.

But you know me... I advocate good right hand technique over changing the bike. :rolleyes:

--Mark
 
Think of it as the difference between driving a 4" gear with another 4" gear versus a 2" gear. Every degree of turn on the 4" drive gear results in the same amount of turn on the 4" driven gear. If you switch to a 2" drive gear, it takes two degrees of movement to make the driven gear turn one degree. That means you get more precise control over the position of the driven gear. Changing the shape of the cam does the same thing.
--Mark[/QUOTE]

That's it!! I knew it was all about ratios but could not verbalize it so eloquently as you...

Did someone say GROUP BUY????????????

mitch
 
Blrfl said:
But you know me... I advocate good right hand technique over changing the bike. :rolleyes:

--Mark
Click to expand...

While I agree with you, I just can't seem to get consistant enough to do it flawlessly each time. When I get it right, it's good, but something that would improve response all the time would allow me to concentrate on cornering better. Maybe I just need to ride more. Practice does make perfect... :D
 
I'd certainly give it a try....I'm getting better at it but if your not cheatin your not tryin right? LOL :crackup
 
One question I have. Does the Throttle Tamer require more total degrees of rotation from fully closed to fully open than the OEM or is the slower pull at the low end recovered by a faster pull at the upper end to end up the same?
 
wjbertrand said:
One question I have. Does the Throttle Tamer require more total degrees of rotation from fully closed to fully open than the OEM or is the slower pull at the low end recovered by a faster pull at the upper end to end up the same?
Click to expand...

Same amount of rotation from fully closed to wide open.

The initial 3mm (about) are at a slower slope and then the rest is made up for the rest of the distance to wide open, so you'll never notice the change through the range.

I got one, I installed it and what it does is a very small thing, yet it makes a big difference.

I usually have no issue with throttle control at slow speed until I get a passenger and then things change a bit because the bike carries more speed than it normally does and to slow I sometimes get to the point of completely closing the butterflies.

When that happens the stiction on those said butterflies is hard to pass sometimes without causing the bike to lurch, because it gets a bunch of fuel at once.

What this throttle tube with a modified cam does is allow you to turn the initial few millimeters with less pull and that results in a smooth opening of the butterflies. That is ALL it does.

Bottom line, it works!

If you have an issue at slow speeds where the bike lurches for you, this will help to resolve that issue.
 
mitch96 said:
Think of it as the difference between driving a 4" gear with another 4" gear versus a 2" gear. Every degree of turn on the 4" drive gear results in the same amount of turn on the 4" driven gear. If you switch to a 2" drive gear, it takes two degrees of movement to make the driven gear turn one degree. That means you get more precise control over the position of the driven gear. Changing the shape of the cam does the same thing.
--Mark
Click to expand...

That's it!! I knew it was all about ratios but could not verbalize it so eloquently as you...

Did someone say GROUP BUY????????????

mitch[/QUOTE]

Sounds like the old "Nautilus" exercise machines, the farther ya lift, the tuffer it gets. In this case, early throttle movement on the reduced diameter has less effect on the cable pull, the farther ya twist, the more (relative) movement ya get.

Sounds like a simple and elegant solution to a common FI problem. Honda could'a done the same thing with the FI Map by reducing the volume of fuel early in the throttle twist and richen it as the throttle opens farther (Steeper map ramp.)

I hear that Suzuki has the smoothest FI throttle. Any personal knowledge here?
 
I have mine already, now I need to install it with my other 4 farkles.
I have the police switch and heated grip elements, so it will take longer to replace it all.
 
"Sounds like a simple and elegant solution to a common FI problem. Honda could'a done the same thing with the FI Map by reducing the volume of fuel early in the throttle twist and richen it as the throttle opens farther (Steeper map ramp.)

I hear that Suzuki has the smoothest FI throttle. Any personal knowledge here?"

I rode a new Bandit and it's like butter. Triumph's too are really smooth.. The G2 on my '05 is a keeper.. Rode some twisties here in central florida this weekend (FL-STOC) and it was really neat.. I could even "throttle steer" in the corners.. Give it a little more gas and it would widen the arc or back off a tad and tighten up the curve without changing my lean angle.. Just like a sports car..

mitch
 
Re: G2 Tamer Throttle Tube

George said:
That's it!! I knew it was all about ratios but could not verbalize it so eloquently as you...

Sounds like the old "Nautilus" exercise machines, the farther ya lift, the tuffer it gets. In this case, early throttle movement on the reduced diameter has less effect on the cable pull, the farther ya twist, the more (relative) movement ya get.

Sounds like a simple and elegant solution to a common FI problem. Honda could'a done the same thing with the FI Map by reducing the volume of fuel early in the throttle twist and richen it as the throttle opens farther (Steeper map ramp.)

I hear that Suzuki has the smoothest FI throttle. Any personal knowledge here?
Click to expand...

I think I read that Yamaha attempted to address this problem in a similar manner but did so at the other end of the cable using a variable radius bell crank on the throttle body assembly. Thanks for the discussion, mine has arrived and is sitting on my bench awaiting the arrival of a new Symtec heater foil for that side. Can't wait to try it!
 
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Joe,

Enter it using ALL CAPS. It wouldn't work for me in lower case but did work in UPPER CASE.
 
Byron said:
Joe,

Enter it using ALL CAPS. It wouldn't work for me in lower case but did work in UPPER CASE.
Click to expand...

I thought it was over last night anyway.

I tried caps/lower yesterday too..LOL
 
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