Clutch Slave Cylinder...

ST1100Y

ST1100Y

Site Supporter
Joined
Dec 4, 2012
Messages
5,276
Age
60
Location
Vienna, AuSTria
Bike
ST1100Y, ST1100R
Looking forward to install this baby... :cool:

IMG_20200910_155611.jpg

It claims reduced heaviness of clutch action; design looks well made, piston seals with a V-ring plus a (Teflon or PTFE?) guidance ring to reduce friction in bore.
Will see how it works...

Source:

Honda by Oberon Performance

motorcycle parts and accessories for race and custom motorbikes by oberon performance uk designed and manufactured
www.oberon-performance.co.uk
 
Oberon makes a nice fuel cap kit that replaces the ST1300's keyed fuel cap. Very nice product! If that clutch slave cylinder is of the same quality (and there is no reason to doubt that), you have a winner in your hands.
 
I installed one about a year ago. Works good. I didn't feel a big difference in the lever pull. I was able to do the install without removing the header pipes. One of the pipes kinda blocks one of the bolts.
 
Ron said:
I installed one about a year ago. Works good. I didn't feel a big difference in the lever pull. I was able to do the install without removing the header pipes. One of the pipes kinda blocks one of the bolts.
Click to expand...

So how did you get that one bolt out, when it is blocked by the pipe? I had to move the headers on mine as well.
 
Adding my name to the list of people wanting to know that too. I HAD the remove the right side to get the clutch slave off. Don't see how the one bolt will come out. Even with that bolt removed I didn't think there was enough room to remove the slave.
 
I got my clutch slave off without having to remove the header. I used an open ended spanner to turn the tricky slave cylinder bolt about an eighth of a turn at a time, then when it was slack enough, I turned it out with my fingers. It would have been much easier to undo the header but I didn't have a replacement header gasket/seal and didn't want to disturb it. My bike is a 2001 ABS model, don't know if this is any different to other years/models. (after reading more replies, I wonder if the awkward bolt on my bike had been replaced with a shorter one by a PO).
 
Last edited:
WobblyG said:
I got my clutch slave off without having to remove the header. I used an open ended spanner to turn the tricky slave cylinder bolt about an eighth of a turn at a time, then when it was slack enough, I turned it out with my fingers. It would have been much easier to undo the header but I didn't have a replacement header gasket/seal and didn't want to disturb it. My bike is a 2001 ABS model, don't know if this is any different to other years/models.
Click to expand...

Getting to the bolt is not the problem though. I was able to back it out with the proper tool as well, but when it contacted the pipe, there was no room to complete the removal from the hole, no matter how much I tried to twist it slightly sideways.

Since others have removed it easily as well, I wonder if some 1100's had slightly different bends in the pipes during the manufacture of the exhaust headers?
 
"How much of a dent in the pipe would it take for it to clear?"

I thought of that and gave it a shot. But the first and second shots didn't seem to do much and I was concerned about knocking the bike over and moved on.

I screwed the screw out as far as possible. Using a large screw driver, I moved the pipe enough to get the screw out. Reversed the process for installation. I later thought about shortening the screw but the job was done so, ... I'll look at that next time.
 
Last edited:
Ron said:
"How much of a dent in the pipe would it take for it to clear?"

I thought of that and gave it a shot. But the first and second shots didn't seem to do much and I was concerned about knocking the bike over and moved on.

I screwed the screw out as far as possible. Using a large screw driver, I moved the piped enough to get the screw out. Reversed the process for installation. I later thought about shortening the screw but the job was done so, ... I'll look at that next time.
Click to expand...

Mystery solved! I wouldn't have thought you could get any movement of the pipe doing that.
 
Threw it in today, new and shiny it's sticking out like a sore thumb... ;)

IMG_20200926_113410.jpg

Really smooth clutch operation, IMHO noticeable less force required pulling the lever which seems owned to that additional Teflon ring guiding the piston.
 
I also had problems with that one bolt when I replaced the clutch slave cylinder on my ST 1100 - I eventually removed the bolts that hold the exhaust header in place, that let me move the header enough to get the last clutch slave cylinder bolt out. Full writeup is here: ST1100 - Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder.

Michael

Clutch Slave Cylinder 2.jpg
 
CYYJ said:
I also had problems with that one bolt when I replaced the clutch slave cylinder on my ST 1100 - I eventually removed the bolts that hold the exhaust header in place, that let me move the header enough to get the last clutch slave cylinder bolt out. Full writeup is here: ST1100 - Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder.

Michael

Clutch Slave Cylinder 2.jpg
Click to expand...


Now we know that prying with a BF screwdriver will allow you to force the header enough to the left to allow removal of that bolt. If I have to do it again, that's what I will do, rather than risk breaking off an exhaust header stud that is sure to be corrosion welded to the nut and head after all these years.
 
CYYJ said:
I also had problems with that one bolt when I replaced the clutch slave cylinder on my ST 1100...
Click to expand...
Weird... I simply use an 8mm box wrench to loosen it, flip the wrench over using its fork side to keep turning, then my fingertips to remove it... ratchet and socket for the other two... the slave itself comes out easily without any obstruction due the down-pipe...

preview300x300.aspx.jpg

And since I've applied a slight smear of marine grease on both sides of the paper gasket during the last installation (some years back...), the old slave housing came off nicely, without sticking or ruining the gasket...
 
Wow!!! Tons of great info here. Thanks a lot guys... Guess I'll pull the slave again and check out a few more items. Many thanks to jfheath for very detailed info on the clutch master. I did change to adjustable levers and I'm pretty sure the brass bushing is seated properly, but I'll check it again to make sure.

Do most of you find that the clutch throw is short on the ST's as previously described or is that indicative perhaps to my other issues with the clutch? My Goldwing has a very smooth and linear clutch operation, so I am comparing to that.

In terms of the Oberon slave cylinder, is that available locally or does it have to come from UK?

One more question. I'm not a young man (74) and find the leg position on the ST a bit uncomfortable. Are there any commercial highway pegs available that would increase comfort? I'm having a go at manufacturing some of my own and they look promising but I'm still not finished with them. I have a pretty complete shop with both Mig and Tig welding capability so I think I can come up with something comfortable.

I have also installed some risers for a bit more bar comfort. I really like the look and sound of the ST so I hope I can make this work. She's quite a bit lighter than my Wing and pretty nimble on the twisties here in eastern Tennessee so I am hopeful I can iron out these issues. Otherwise, I'll have to sell her and look for a different 2nd bike.

Thanks to all that have offered advise and help. I'll keep you apprised of my progress as work continues on my ST.

Dadztoy
 
MCL used to offer a peg lowering part for the 1300, but they closed up shop formally about a year + ago, and informally more than that. I've not seen any offered for the 1100, but since I have a 1300, it is possible I did not take note of one if I had seen it. Try a google search, and you might end up fabricating your own.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom