New G6 H4 with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.

Uncle Phil said:
I keep trying to come up with a better solution to replace those bails which most folks find to be a pain.
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Just don't bend them putting them back on. I had issues with my '05 when I first learned how to take it apart, but after understanding the how's and how-nots, I've got about four extras sitting in my parts, that have been sitting there now for several years (not needing to replace any)!
 
You should not have to bend them, like Bob said, just learn how they work.
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The bending applies to the bails hitting the Evitek G4 bulb's fan and preventing it from seating properly. A standard bulb doesn't/shouldn't require bending the bail.

Seeing the stock bulb/bail/headlight assembly makes it easy to see how the bail has to be manipulated to be released and reinstalled.

Push-slide-release-remove. Reverse procedure to secure the bulb. This was the same for installing my 55/60W bulbs in the ST as was any H4 swap I've ever done for my other Hondas. The difference was being able to remove those headlight assemblies in a minute.

The ease/difficulty of actual manipulation of the ST's bail is a result of varying factors among individual owners. There's also one mention from another member that using the shims (for the 1100) added to the difficulty of closing the bail (due to their added thickness). Others haven't remark on that being a problem.

I was able (barely) to swap my 45/45W bulbs for 55/60W without removing any plastic. I will probably use Bob's method to install the Eviteks when they get here. (Unless there's an easier method...)
 
ST Gui said:
The bending applies to the bails hitting the Evitek G4 bulb's fan and preventing it from seating properly. A standard bulb doesn't/shouldn't require bending the bail.

Seeing the stock bulb/bail/headlight assembly makes it easy to see how the bail has to be manipulated to be released and reinstalled.

Push-slide-release-remove. Reverse procedure to secure the bulb. This was the same for installing my 55/60W bulbs in the ST as was any H4 swap I've ever done for my other Hondas. The difference was being able to remove those headlight assemblies in a minute.

The ease/difficulty of actual manipulation of the ST's bail is a result of varying factors among individual owners. There's also one mention from another member that using the shims (for the 1100) added to the difficulty of closing the bail (due to their added thickness). Others haven't remark on that being a problem.

I was able (barely) to swap my 45/45W bulbs for 55/60W without removing any plastic. I will probably use Bob's method to install the Eviteks when they get here. (Unless there's an easier method...)
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And here I thought you were talking about the mirror covers...lol

As for the headlights, I never noticed any issues with the wire holds hitting the fans. I'll have to take a second look at those.
 
ST Gui said:
The bending applies to the bails hitting the Evitek G4 bulb's fan and preventing it from seating properly...
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Sorry, I don't understand this quote. The mounting procedure on my ST1300 was to remove the LED 'bulb' and fan from the mounting plate, bend/remove the two lower tabs on the mounting plate, install the mounting plate, install the bail, install the rubber boot, pushing down firmly around the hole in the mounting plate, and finally insert the LED 'bulb' and fan into the mounting plate and twist to lock (adjusting to level the light deflectors to a horizontal position).

In my experience there was no need to modify the bails at all as they closed quite easily over the mounting plate and sit under the rubber boot, while the fan is outside the boot. Am I missing something in this conversation?
 
SupraSabre said:
As for the headlights, I never noticed any issues with the wire holds hitting the fans. I'll have to take a second look at those.
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MajorTom said:
Am I missing something in this conversation?
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I might be. I thought Unc had a problem with his 1100's bails hitting the fan. Or maybe is wasn't the fan proper but the body of the Evitek where the OEM bulb wasn't a problem.

Then there was a subsequent post about someone having the same problem with their 1300. I may have misspoke about the fan proper.

All I really know for sure is that I had a problem with pressing the bails with the factory bulbs so I hope I don't have to modify the bails for the G6s.
 
Well I had the entire front mid and lower cowls off for a valve clearance check so it was no problem to access the headlights and marker lights :) (which I also changed out). I never had a problem changing out a standard headlight bulb once I learned the feel of the "Push-slide-release-remove" you listed. Luckily it was the same as on my Accord, so once I made that connection I could do it by feel without seeing what was going on up there. Good luck with your install.
 
And remember, once the bails have been "reconfigured" for clearance, you should never have to mess with them again. I carry a spare LED bulb, but don't need to move the bail. Can squat in front of the bike and reach up behind the headlight assembly to remove/replace the bulb.
 
hoowasat said:
And remember, once the bails have been "reconfigured" for clearance, you should never have to mess with them again. I carry a spare LED bulb, but don't need to move the bail. Can squat in front of the bike and reach up behind the headlight assembly to remove/replace the bulb.
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That's a good thing to remember. I assume that the 'socket' for the LEDs is standard or do you have to have the EVITEK G6 bulbs?
 
Uncle Phil said:
I assume that the 'socket' for the LEDs is standard ...
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I do not know if they're a standard base or not, and I doubt there is an industry standard ... yet. My spare is a second set of EVITEK G6 bulbs. OTOH, the base-plate's fitment to your headlight assembly is a standard.
 
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DeanR said:
Correct. Bails hit the fan on a ST1100 and need to be bent to provide proper seating of the assembly. ST1300 I don't know.
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Okay, thanks for clearing that up. So this is only a problem if you're dealing with the interface between new and old technology. :rimshot1:
 
Uncle Phil said:
I assume that the 'socket' for the LEDs is standard
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This begs begs a similar question to Unc's— assuming the G6 socket fits an H4 bulb if a G6 blew could you run an incandescent H4 off that ballast module? Even if the socket and bulb match were talking a big difference in current demanded.


hoowasat said:
I carry a spare LED bulb, but don't need to move the bail.
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I never thought about that! That's a huge plus for me! Carrying a spare G6 bulb sounds like the way to go.
 
Re: New G6 H4 LED bulb with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.

The manual calls for a H7. Why dose all here seem to use the H4?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
ST Gui said:
This begs begs a similar question to Unc's— assuming the G6 socket fits an H4 bulb if a G6 blew could you run an incandescent H4 off that ballast module? Even if the socket and bulb match were talking a big difference in current demanded.
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Not that I can see. The 'base plate' has a custom plastic insert that the LED bulb locks into - similar to an old 1157 socket configuration.
 
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