YEA, I KNOW, another oil thread.

Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Messages
633
Age
60
Location
Halifax, PA
Bike
2006 ST1300
It's V E R Y long but tests almost everything including diesel oils.
Also has a motorcycle section.

NEW look at oil (for me)
I'm now rethinking EVERYTHING about oil. I now have my new favorite for my cages but don't know about my bikes yet.

The beloved Rotella is sub-par along with Chevron, Valvoline, etc. He says to run 5w-30 car oil in ALL water cooled motorcycles, ignoring the resource conserving part saying if the clutch is in good condition it will be fine.
 
Dead dinosaur + kitchen blender = /close thread.

Since someone already got the popcorn, I'll get one of these started :campfire1:
 
Sheesh, just when you thought you had it all figured out, someone finds a new way to :beatdeadhorse:

I for one, have been using several diesel oils in my bikes for the last decade and haven't had ANY engine failures because of it. So I'll continue to stick with what I know works! So this is what I say to any new oil findings! :nanana1:
 
This oil report has been around for some years - As to the additives and energy conserving oils - these can cause clutch issues no doubt - grabby squawking clutches - I've seen this too many times. This RAT guy bases all his test data on film strength primarily - comes off as a super expert - I'm not so sure.
 
Admins... please ban the next person that posts "Well I've been using.....".

(hopefully that kills this thread :biggrin: )
 
It's V E R Y long but tests almost everything including diesel oils.
Also has a motorcycle section.

NEW look at oil (for me)
I'm now rethinking EVERYTHING about oil. I now have my new favorite for my cages but don't know about my bikes yet.

The beloved Rotella is sub-par along with Chevron, Valvoline, etc. He says to run 5w-30 car oil in ALL water cooled motorcycles, ignoring the resource conserving part saying if the clutch is in good condition it will be fine.
Yep, and he'll be replacing alot of clutch packs.
Says he does not get PAID or SELL products, but I wonder how much oil is GIVEN to him :nuts:
 
I guess what I question about his conclusions are that he simply looks at load carrying capacity - there is so much more to a good lubricant than that - no consideration about cleanliness over a long period of time, ring sticking, carbon buildup, acid formation, shear stability over a long period of time and on and on. A quick snapshot of film strength would only apply to an engine that is perhaps used for racing and all the others things won't apply since the oil is only used for a short period of time. It is like looking at Castor based oils - commonly used in racing applications for many years - the Castor based oils have tremendous film strength and provide fantastic lubrication in extreme operation but burns very dirty. Engine run for any length of time on Castor oil, even de-gummed castor will carbon up severely in a short time. The piston rings will glue themselves into the piston. As a racing oil fine, but not for long term use.
 
I'd better start reading that wonderful article, since I can't even count the number of engines I've ruined by using the wrong sub-standard motor oil in a motorcycle. Oh wait, the reason I can't count them is the number is ZERO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I had a V-Star. Went to a forum to learn about octane. Some riders using super some using premium and some regular gas. Like the oil thread here that forum went on and on and on and on. After all that crap my conclusion was just use the octane the dang manual tells you to. Simple enough.
 
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