World's first subwoofer on an ST1300!!!

Quick replies to several posts...

1. Yes, I could put a capacitor in (to minimize the drain on the alternator). However, since the amp is wired directly to the battery, it would be working to level out the spikes in amp draws when I exceed the RMS rating for everything. Which means I need to turn it down more than anything else.
I should prolly put a voltage meter on the bike to keep an eye on things too.

Wouldn't this only be true if everything was wired in series from the battery? Not an expert here, but, you don't learn if you don't ask. Thanks.
 
If you want to know a thing or two about capacitors for audio systems, here is a really good read. I usually send it to people who think that installing a capacitor in their car will fix their electrical shortcoming issue. I'm sure you guys already know most of it, but I still read it about 3x a month because it's such a good article.
http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/showthread.php?t=17970

i'm curious as to why you can't run the amp below 55Hz. does that amp have a fixed high pass crossover on it that you can't change or what? most A/B amps have a selectable crossover that lets you choose high pass, low pass, or through (or full pass) and a potentiometer to adjust where that crossover point is. that would be weird if your amp wasn't adjustable like that.

what i meant about stiffening the box was that the plastic walls are going to flex even with the dividing board for the 6th order bandpass. a layer or two of peel n seal inside will really reduce "box flex" and in turn it will give you a better sound by eliminating most of your upper harmonic distortion.

anyways, it's still neat-o! truly an innovation.
 
Yes, I believe everything must be wired in series from the battery. I am essentially using the battery as a very large capacitor right now. But when the amp exceeds its RMS output wattage by to much, it draws excessive amps from the battery for a very short time, which causes the voltage to dip across the entire electronic circuitry of the motorcycle, which makes the headlights dim to the beat- a very bad thing. Adding an actual capacitor in series between the battery and the amp would work better, because a capacitor responds much more quickly to an amp draw than a battery does.

Basically, the amp has a lot of capacitors in it, so that it can put out various wattages as needed while drawing a smooth, regular amount of current from the battery. But a cheap amp (like mine) has undersized capacitors that can't do a fantastic job when I crank it to max. So I have to keep the volume down, so that it draws a smooth, appropriately sized load from the battery.

If the headlights are dimming, it means the amp is getting close to drawing so much load from the battery that it is basically shorting it. If I am at freeway speeds, there is plenty of wattage delivered from that monster 660 watt alternator, so there is no dimming of the headlights, and all is well. In short, low volumes in town or just turn it off at stop lights, and close to full blast when you are out alone on the freeway.
 
Thanks Juddspaintballs!

You are absolutely correct. The walls do flex, however the shape of the box is kinda spherical, so it flexes less than a rectangular box would. The plastic walls are also very thick (GIVI Quality!) Adding the peel and seal would help. It would also further decrease the volume of the box, making the frequency response somewhat worse, but the frequencies that it did respond to would have less distortion.

The reason I can't hit below 55hz is not an amp issue- it is a box size issue. The box is so small that to tune it appropriately would leave me with impossibly small or long tuning ports. i believe I used WINISD to calculate everything, and it was starting to say that I would be exceeding the speed of sound inside of the lower Hz ports to tune them down to 20Hz. Which is unfortunate, because the woofer is fantastic between 20-200 Hz.

essentially, since the box can't handle the lower frequencies, the sound gets converted to mechanical energy (for the most part) and the GIVI box acts like there is an angry monkey inside of it, and starts jumping around. I ran a few bass test mp3's and it is hilarious to watch. You can hear the lower frequencies, but a large part of the sound is lost mechanically.

essentially this is an interesting farkle, fun to play with, but definitely NOT practical. Kinda like the snow tires I made for a blackbird 1100xx a few years ago... Got me to school and back, but it was very dangerous and 17 degrees outside... Got lots of stares though! Nothing like a crotch rocket passing a 4 wheel drive in a few inches of snow....
 

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The reason I can't hit below 55hz is not an amp issue- it is a box size issue. The box is so small that to tune it appropriately would leave me with impossibly small or long tuning ports. i believe I used WINISD to calculate everything, and it was starting to say that I would be exceeding the speed of sound inside of the lower Hz ports to tune them down to 20Hz. Which is unfortunate, because the woofer is fantastic between 20-200 Hz.
Ahhh, I didn't think about that. Got it. Interestingly enough, this is one of the few times WINISD is actually close to being correct. It's formulas are based on an acoustically dead room, and an open air environment is as acoustically dead as you can get :D
 
Yup! :D Lucky for me, since I had never built a sub woofer enclosure before this. My first attempt at building this box was literally a 12" sub woofer suspended inside the givi box. It did not make any noise at all, and I couldn't figure out why...

A lot of my co-workers :bow1: gave me advice and tips and I learned a LOT getting this thing working.
 
I think it's a silly idea, but who cares, as long as you keep it where it is...


Three states away from me. :D :D :D
 
I think it is unique and original, however I don't think I would have cut up a $300+ GIVI top box, maybe one of the $60, made in China knock-offs they sell on eBay. Nice work though!!:yes:
 
$300+ ???? My friend, you need to buy your GIVI stuff at the following website:

http://rlmotorcycles.com/home/Accessories/givi_monolock.htm

I bought both my E33 Monolock cases for ~$90 apiece. And they came with the universal mounting plate. They also arrived within a few days...

*My apologies if we are not supposed to plug vendors. I am not affiliated with RL motorcycles in any way- just a very satisfied customer*
 
$300+ ???? My friend, you need to buy your GIVI stuff at the following website:

http://rlmotorcycles.com/home/Accessories/givi_monolock.htm

I bought both my E33 Monolock cases for ~$90 apiece. And they came with the universal mounting plate. They also arrived within a few days...

*My apologies if we are not supposed to plug vendors. I am not affiliated with RL motorcycles in any way- just a very satisfied customer*

That's why I bought the eBay knock-off. It's a knock-off of the larger top box that GIVI makes, the 929 or something to that effect. But after searching the web for a true GIVI large enough for two helmets, the best price I could find for top box and mount designed for the ST, was $300+. I did at the time look at the location you recommend, but was unable to put together the package I needed for my ST1100. Also, plugging a vendor is not a problem on this site and is quite welcome to help find the best parts, service, and price.
 
I just ordered a Bestem 2012 on ebay. There's 5 silver ones left (they are larger than the 929 and have brake lights wired in). $80 shipped
 
I just ordered a Bestem 2012 on ebay. There's 5 silver ones left (they are larger than the 929 and have brake lights wired in). $80 shipped

Maybe mine is the 2012 as well. It is made by Bestem and has the brake lights wired in as well, with enough room for two helmets, and I also paid $80 with shipping. It's a good deal and has worked out just fine. Either way they are GIVI knock offs that seem to be worth the money. Ride safe.
 
I was thinking about building a "surround sound" system for my ST too, and had thought about putting speakers in the box somehow

just haven't got up the nerve yet to cut open my Givi box, and probably won't

was thinking about mounting some speakers to the grab bar of the passenger seat
 
If you do put it under the knife you probably want to talk to the original poster and read up on enclosure design. There are a number of factors to balance when designing speaker boxes. Don't know if the Basslist mailing list / usenet is still out there in some form on the net. You're not talking hifi on a bike but need to be aware of the trade offs with a ported enclosure and the driver used.

I was thinking about building a "surround sound" system for my ST too, and had thought about putting speakers in the box somehow

just haven't got up the nerve yet to cut open my Givi box, and probably won't

was thinking about mounting some speakers to the grab bar of the passenger seat
 
Hi viprex,

R u sure the world's first subwoofer?
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That's good stuff Viper. Remember, you can't hear them tell you what they think about your tunes if you just turn it up some.

Here's mine:

bassdrop2.jpg


sbB
 
That's good stuff Viper. Remember, you can't hear them tell you what they think about your tunes if you just turn it up some.

Here's mine:

bassdrop2.jpg


sbB

wow... you going to hook up a stebel to it? LOL that should wake up the whole county!
 
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