Yes, I believe everything must be wired in series from the battery. I am essentially using the battery as a very large capacitor right now. But when the amp exceeds its RMS output wattage by to much, it draws excessive amps from the battery for a very short time, which causes the voltage to dip across the entire electronic circuitry of the motorcycle, which makes the headlights dim to the beat- a very bad thing. Adding an actual capacitor in series between the battery and the amp would work better, because a capacitor responds much more quickly to an amp draw than a battery does.
Basically, the amp has a lot of capacitors in it, so that it can put out various wattages as needed while drawing a smooth, regular amount of current from the battery. But a cheap amp (like mine) has undersized capacitors that can't do a fantastic job when I crank it to max. So I have to keep the volume down, so that it draws a smooth, appropriately sized load from the battery.
If the headlights are dimming, it means the amp is getting close to drawing so much load from the battery that it is basically shorting it. If I am at freeway speeds, there is plenty of wattage delivered from that monster 660 watt alternator, so there is no dimming of the headlights, and all is well. In short, low volumes in town or just turn it off at stop lights, and close to full blast when you are out alone on the freeway.