Where oh where did my Moly go to, where oh ...

Don B said:
Michael, what class of NASCAR races do they have at HMP? I enjoy watching Nationwide and Sprint Cup racing weekends on TV, wouldn't mind going someplace local to watch some good "stock car" racing. Going to Fort Worth to watch the big league races at TMS is too much of a hassle for me, 'specially when I can just watch the races on the big screen TV...
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Don - I'm so glad you found the discrepancy in the Service Manual. I removed the snap-ring and pulled the "driven flange plate assembly" off.
The [thin inner] o-ring was galled - called Honda of Houston - they had one left in stock. Turns out 3grams of moly is the "perfect" amount applied to those mating surfaces.

USPS woman just walked up and delivered the o-ring for the splined side - whoop!


Sorry Don, you'll never find a Nationwide or Sprint car at (link) HMP :) ... you can get tickets at Fiesta for $5 ... at the track, $1 Cokes, $1 hot dogs, $1 beer (other foods as well). It's a 1/8 mile concrete track, so every Sat we watch Dwarfs, EcoStocks, Trucks, and Modifies - it's all fun!!. Gates open at 6, racing at 7. Right next door is an 1/8 drag strip (Fri nights). We enjoy going just because it's close, inexpensive, and just "something different to do" on a Sat night. Rio Bravo motocross track is next door (I used to race there back in the '70s).
 
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Since day one I've always used Loctite Moly Paste. If you look at the MSDS sheet you will see that it truly has 65% Moly unlike Honda Moly 60 which only has 15 - 20%. Over 100K miles and final drive splines still look almost new. The brush in the 8 oz. Loctite container is great for applying. More Moly equals better protection.
 
Ok, I'll be the odd man out

Never used the Honda Moly grease
Never measure how much I put on, just make sure that all the splines are flooded in grease.
Never replaced the 2- O-Rings in 65,000 miles.

Product I use is for the splines is an industrial application, lithium polymer ("MOBIL GREASE XTC"AGMA-type CG-1/CG-2 high-speed, flexible couplings) that is used for gear couplings in say pulp and paper or refineries.
I'm going to experiment and try another product from Mobil, it's called Mobilux EP 111 Lithium AGMA-type CG-1/CG-3 couplings in the near future.

This grease stays in these gear couplings at my work for years and sometimes we check them. Preventative maintenance ..
Most machines that have this type of grease run 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

My rear tire lasts about 18,000 miles, so that's my interval on changing out the grease on the final drive splines.

Oh, by the way, my splines still look like new.

Also, I've removed the OEM grease out of the 2 final drive ball bearings and put in some MOBIL SHC 220 synthetic grease in them.

Packed them solid with this grease and then put the seals back on the bearings.
You'll really be surprised when you pull the bearing seal off and see how little grease there is in these new bearings.
The bearing manufactures don't know if this bearing is going to turn at 100 RPM or 20,000 rpm, so they put in an amount for the 20,000 RPM, very little.
My way of thinking is when I packed my bearings on my cars years ago, I packed them full, so that's what I do now on the final drive bearings.
 
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I've obviously been slathering way too much moly on the splines - 5 grams puts a nice coat on the male and female splines, without any excessive "build up" of moly in the spline channels.
And thanks to Don who pointed out the issue in the Service Manual - about applying the 3grams of moly to the "other" side of the flange (rubber damper side).

Anyway, here's a [thumbnail] photo of 5grams of moly paste in a 1/2 teaspoon - as you can see, it's a splotch over 1/2 teaspoon:

paste-5g.jpg
 
caldercay said:
I've obviously been slathering way too much moly on the splines - 5 grams puts a nice coat on the male and female splines, without any excessive "build up" of moly in the spline channels.
And thanks to Don who pointed out the issue in the Service Manual - about applying the 3grams of moly to the "other" side of the flange (rubber damper side).

Anyway, here's a [thumbnail] photo of 5grams of moly paste in a 1/2 teaspoon - as you can see, it's a splotch over 1/2 teaspoon:

paste-5g.jpg
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Got a picture of the splines with the 5 grams of moly on them?
 
Funny but I completely forgot that back in January when I put a new PR3 on the 1300, I checked the O-Rings and found a bad one. Here are a couple of pics of it. I got lucky by catching it and replacing it in time. Looks like it got pinched during installation (or maybe a rubber addicted rat took a hunk out of it :)):


O-Ring1_RearWheel_800_zpsf4adcbd4.jpg

O-Ring1_RearWheel_800_zpsf4adcbd4.jpg

O-Ring1a_RearWheel_751_zpsb52f7243.jpg

O-Ring1a_RearWheel_751_zpsb52f7243.jpg
 
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Byron said:
...unlike Honda Moly 60 which only has 15 - 20%.
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Might explain why it "flowed out" the spline area on the OP's bike: its simple too runny...

I'd always wondered about that, as the in the w/shop manual suggested Moylcote Gn plus (40%) is thick and almost crumbly as old fashioned (canned) shoe polish...

Over here they sell the Moly Gn plus canned and in tubes... in the can you nearly need a scraper to "cut" a piece out of it, and the tube is just impossible to squeeze; I always end up cutting it open and peel the required amount out with the tip of a screwdriver...
 
Mick said:
I checked the O-Rings and found a bad one. Here are a couple of pics of it. I got lucky by catching it and replacing it in time.
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Hey Mick ... I'm guessing that's the 61x2 o-ring? (the one on the side with the rubber dampers)?
Or is that the 50.5x3.5 that's on the male spline?

My 50.5 o-ring was in almost-new condition (but I replaced it anyway on Sat).
Additionally, the 61x2 o-ring was no-good (it was actually square and a bit galled).
 
Great thread! Glad I found this before replacing my cush rubbers at 62k.. hadn't even thought about the o-rings. Both o-rings and the old cush inserts still looked ok but now they're good for another 60k. Was getting just a bit of leakage from under the bigger o-ring on the wheel spline end.

I wish I had scanned back a bit farther in the thread tho - that whole "mating surface of the rear wheel hub end and the final driven flange A" thing had me wondering wth Honda was talking about. Now I know. And now I need to take it apart again - cleaned that mating surface, didn't lube it.. lol.
 
bkra13 said:
I wish I had scanned back a bit farther in the thread tho - that whole "mating surface of the rear wheel hub end and the final driven flange A" thing had me wondering wth Honda was talking about. Now I know. And now I need to take it apart again - cleaned that mating surface, didn't lube it.. lol.
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I took another look at the ST1300 - Rear Flange Bearing Replacement article ... on Page 1, look at the fifth picture down.
We can see moly on the cush side of things after Mellow removed the plate.
 
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