What did you do with your ST1100/ST1300 today?

Eric, surprised about the colour in only one year. When you did it last year was there any sludge left in the corners of the reservoir? I used Qtips and flushed about three times cause mine was real BAD
 
Decided my Bridgestone T31s won’t last thru RockSToc so ordered some Roadmaster 3s, in stock, a little cheaper than T32s and good reviews so will give them a try.
 
STFlips said:
Eric, surprised about the colour in only one year. When you did it last year was there any sludge left in the corners of the reservoir? I used Qtips and flushed about three times cause mine was real BAD
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Ted is it? Yeah, this surprised me because I had cleaned the reservoir out spotless last spring (prior to that who knows how long the fluid had been in there; the bike sat for several years).
Clutch operation is currently good so it’s hard to chase something when everything working properly. I will keep an eye on how quickly this new fluid darkens.
Obviously there’s some sludge at the CSC and based on my experience I can only conclude that operating the clutch causes a backwash of fluid from the CSC into the reservoir.
I’m sure I’ve got that backwards and it may take several more flushes to clear it up.
Brand new CSC on the workbench ready if needed.
 
Obo said:
Nice but pricey. I've used standard blocks like these 1654081858554.png in small project boxes as they didn't have a cover for the screw terminal. Those look nice with the cover.

I've also though about using some Wago connectors if they meet the requirements for stranded wire and the gauge.

1654081987003.png
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I've only used the Wago on domestic cable but they are so easy to use. But not cheap. All connections are nicely tucked away with no metal to :nuke1:.
Upt'North.
 
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Esti1300 said:
I’m sure I’ve got that backwards and it may take several more flushes to clear it up.
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Based on the orientation of the fluid inlet and the bleeder valve, it seems that not much of the clutch slave cylinder fluid actually gets flushed, and much of the old fluid remains in place. If yours was really bad, there most likely is still a lot of old contaminated fluid in the slave cylinder.

If it wasn't so hard to remove, it would be advantageous to remove it so that it could be manipulated when flushing to replace as much fluid as possible.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
Based on the orientation of the fluid inlet and the bleeder valve, it seems that not much of the clutch slave cylinder fluid actually gets flushed, and much of the old fluid remains in place. If yours was really bad, there most likely is still a lot of old contaminated fluid in the slave cylinder.

If it wasn't so hard to remove, it would be advantageous to remove it so that it could be manipulated when flushing to replace as much fluid as possible.
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So continued flushing will not necessarily get rid of potential sludge in the CSC. Only way then is to remove and clean or remove and replace?
 
I did my clutch fluid flush today, my last job on the list to get my bike up to scratch since I bought it last October. Fluid was a little dark but not really bad, but I could find no record of when it was last done so seemed sensible to flush it through. Brake fluid was changed before the dealer put it up for sale so that should be ok for another 12 months or so.
 
- new tires front & rear (Exedra of course... I just LOVE that tire machine... and again no re-balancing required, Bridgestone are awesome :cool: )
- inspected wheel bearings, packed fresh marine grease behind seals, smeared some one the axles while at it
- new hub dampers & aluminum bushings (almost snagged the wrong pack from the shelf, reading -MZ0- froze me up, that's dedicated to NT700 isn't it... :biggrin: )
- cleaned and moly-ed the drive spline (ah, that orange polyurethane O-rings last forever)
- cleaned brake calipers, replaced 1/2-used rear pads precautionary (wanna go to Norway later on...)
- replaced oil, filter, air-filter, inspected secondary air-filter, spark plugs
- checked head-bearings
still due:
- fork oil
- valve check
- carb sync
(blaming Darwin for only giving my two hands though... )
 
ST1100Y said:
- new tires front & rear (Exedra of course... I just LOVE that tire machine... and again no re-balancing required, Bridgestone are awesome :cool: )
- inspected wheel bearings, packed fresh marine grease behind seals, smeared some one the axles while at it
- new hub dampers & aluminum bushings (almost snagged the wrong pack from the shelf, reading -MZ0- froze me up, that's dedicated to NT700 isn't it... :biggrin: )
- cleaned and moly-ed the drive spline (ah, that orange polyurethane O-rings last forever)
- cleaned brake calipers, replaced 1/2-used rear pads precautionary (wanna go to Norway later on...)
- replaced oil, filter, air-filter, inspected secondary air-filter, spark plugs
- checked head-bearings
still due:
- fork oil
- valve check
- carb sync
(blaming Darwin for only giving my two hands though... )
Click to expand...
I wonder how much pad material is wasted on brake maintenance.
I can't remember wearing a pair out in years, changed plenty though and in the case of cars I'm lucky to get two years out of discs before corrosion kills them but the pads are still like new, they're still changed at the same time though.
I had been thinking of changing pads and tyres before getting off to Portugal soon, then I thought again. My present tyres have probably only done around 2000 miles so the decision was made, "stop faffing and start riding".
Upt'North.
 
gbrand42 said:
I did my clutch fluid flush today, my last job on the list to get my bike up to scratch since I bought it last October. Fluid was a little dark but not really bad, but I could find no record of when it was last done so seemed sensible to flush it through. Brake fluid was changed before the dealer put it up for sale so that should be ok for another 12 months or so.
Click to expand...
My own experience with an 11 is it can get hot around the rear caliper, it's very enclosed in there. I wouldn't leave it longer than two years for a rear fluid change. I've had fluid that was around that age that failed badly, probably because of water contamination and I lost the back brake completely on an Italian mountain pass. I always change at least the rear fluid now before any mountain riding as a just in case. It seems to work.
Upt'North.
 
Upt' North said:
I wonder how much pad material is wasted on brake maintenance.
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None, as I keep the used ones with >50% lifespan in storage... they'll do fine in domestic use, but I'd like to avoid the hustle of having to locate spares while abroad... (it's like ammo-count...)
Tires are a different issue, I'll ditch them once they start to "handle funny"... front get's pointed, the rear wears oval and starts to crawl up on grooves...
 
ST1100Y said:
None, as I keep the used ones with >50% lifespan in storage... they'll do fine in domestic use, but I'd like to avoid the hustle of having to locate spares while abroad... (it's like ammo-count...)
Tires are a different issue, I'll ditch them once they start to "handle funny"... front get's pointed, the rear wears oval and starts to crawl up on grooves...
Click to expand...
I do what most ST owners do fluid changes all 'round every other year. I also check the pad thickness and replace if under 50%. My 'theory' is that if one of the pistons becomes a bit sticky prior to next maintenance, uneven wearout may come as an inconvenient surprise. Pads are one of the spares that hang on my pegboard wall.
 
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