Good point this. You may not even need to remove anything depending on which hose is leaking.
So the fuel will come out of the fuel pump side once I remove hose as it is being fed from the upper tank and being forced out by the gravity feed from the upper tank? Any idea the size, 3/8 or 1/4?You don't really need a siphon. If you don't want to wait for it to arrive, see the below method that will drain all but a few ounces of fuel from the lower tank.
Draining the Lower Tank
(Courtesy of John, AKA BakerBoy on ST-Owners.com)
If you want to drain both of your fuel tanks, leaving only a small amount of gas where the pump doesn't go, remove the hose labeled #6 in the below picture and QUICKLY attach a similar size hose to the exposed nipple. Lead the hose to a very big gas can!
1. Have a big gas can with you!
2. There will be hardly any gas left in either fuel tank.
3. Be quick swapping the two hoses when you first start out. You will lose a little gas, but the quicker you are the less you will lose!
The below photo shows the lower fuel tank hose connections.
There are 4 fuel connections on top of the lower fuel tank, numbered as indicated in the picture above:
1- Small hose that vents lower fuel tank vapours into the upper fuel tank.
4- Large hose that connects the upper fuel tank to the lower fuel tank.
5- Pressurized fuel delivered out of the fuel pump to the fuel rail above the throttle bodies.
6- Depressurized excess fuel returned from the fuel rail.
The image below shows the upper fuel tank hose connections.
1- Vent tube to allow air to escape the lower fuel tank during fill-up.
2- Breather tube connected the charcoal canister.
3- Drain tube to evacuate fuel spills or water from around the upper tank filler neck.
4- Large hose that connects the upper fuel tank to the lower fuel tank.
A- Electrical harness for the fuel level sensors.
Thanks, I have a set of JIS screwdrivers, been burned way too many times by trying to use a Phillips on front master cylinder screws....
No fuel pump needed.
) Then I only lose a little fuel when I disconnect the large tube at the bottom of the tank.
Original from Honda is 5.5mm inside diameter, which is right about in the middle between 3/16" and 1/4".
Never heard of a Japanese Industrial standard screwdriver or why those phillips screws were such a pain. I will order one today though.
Phillips were designed (I think) to limit the torque. Anyway, they will cam out when twisted too hard and damage the screw slots in the process. JIS have more vertical wings and are less rounded where the wings join.
The design is often criticized for its tendency to cam out at lower torque levels than other "cross head" designs. There has long been a popular belief that this was a deliberate feature of the design, to assemble aluminium aircraft without overtightening the fasteners.[14]: 85 [15] Extensive evidence is lacking for this specific narrative, and the feature is not mentioned in the original patents.
The JIS B 1012[26] was commonly found in Japanese made equipment, such as cameras and motorbikes. Superficially it looks like a Phillips screw with narrower and more vertical slots, to give less tendency to cam out. The bottom of the recess is flat, and the point of the driver has to be blunt. A Phillips screwdriver has the same 26.5 degree cone angle but because of the tapered slots will not seat fully, and will damage the screw if forced. A correctly sized JIS driver will engage at full depth into a Phillips or Pozidriv head screw slightly loosely, but without damage. JIS heads are often identified by a single dot or an "X" to one side of the cross slot.
Yes it was cold overnight with garage windows open due to fuel spill. But wouldn't I see wetness in the V?
Depends which one is leaking.
Common issue.
Take care not to over-tighten the hose clamps on the radiator hoses. The radiator inlet/outlet pipes are soft and can deform if the clamps are over-tightened.
