Warm up bike? Yes or No???

Getting 'dressed' while the bike is idling is just an old habit, I suppose.
The only bike I every had warm up issues with was a 1978 GL1000 that I rebuilt. It never needed choke until the winter temps arrived...around freezing an under. It didn't like to start in low single digits F. Once it did, I had to keep the throttle open manually and carefully otherwise it would die. Took about five minutes 'til it warmed and was drivable , it operated normally after that routine.
 
Single digits!!! Are you sure you are from Texas, Riding?I know it gets cold.Your bike was telling you to put it into Hibernation.✌️✌️
 
MaxPete said:
Oil circulation is nearly instantaneous and so sitting still doesn't really do anything but waste fuel.

So, once they start-up, I warm up my bikes by riding gently for the first couple of miles. In fact, since they are all old (the newest is 40 this year), I ride them gently most of the time.
Click to expand...
All this ^. That's how I feel. On a cold day I start the bike as I don my riding togs. Usually the idle has dropped by then. If it hasn't I ride off anyway gently as stated above.

If it's not cold enough to wire up (bone-chilling 55º or less) I'll put on my helmet then start the bike. Back out of the garage and I'm off. Again - gently.
 
Al st1100 said:
If there is oil on the cylinder wall doesn't that mean that the oil scaper rings ( oil control rings) are not working ......
Click to expand...


The "scraping" action, stripping all the oil from the walls, is a common misconception.

Hence the switch to naming the rings "control rings" as you noted.

In fact, they act as "lubricating film thickness regulators".
 
start go. No warm up needed. Bike has fuel injection.
Carb bike warm up might needed. especially with modified exhaust,=straight pipes. poor jetting.
 
DannoXYZ said:
There's tiny layer of oil to lubricate rings. That's why there's cross-hatching on cylinders. Depressions of scratches hold oil and prevents rings from removing too much. There's optimum amount of valleys and angles of scratches that yields optimum oil-retention and cylinder-sealing. Too much petrol will wash this oil off and create excessive wear.
Click to expand...
I have seen a lot of flooded engines and just because it was flooded doesn't mean it creates excessive wear. from the web. unleaded gasoline has shown extreme good lubricity value, 279 μm,(what ever that standard is). 2 stoke engines have a lot of gas lubricating things some as much as 50 to 1.
 
DannoXYZ said:
Nope, open-loop when cold because it takes O2-sensor 2-3min to warm up to operating temperatures. So ECU ignores it in beginning. On cold-starts, ECU gives variable amount of enrichment above base-maps based upon air & coolant temps. That's because cold air won't vapourise liquid petrol and lots of it will just pass through without burning. So a little extra is needed to ensure what there's enough vapourised petrol to combust. Here's data from Bosch Motronic 3.1 ECU showing fuel-enrichment values on cold-start based upon outside air-temps. +3.1% at 66F, +7.8% at 12F and +12.5% at -27F

1695351565598.png
Click to expand...
cold starts are open loop, correct. In closed loop the ECM brings the mixture to 14.7 to1. Under loads and acceleration that changes but what Gummycarbs stated is "Once the engine reaches some condition, it will switch to closed loop and use the O2 sensors to lean out the mixture as much as possible. " thats wrong.
 
I don't think we should even start the engine until it's fully warmed up.

Of course, just kidding, but I don't really see the difference between starting a cold engine and easing out of the driveway.

I remember an ad for oil many years ago (I don't remember the oil) where they guarantied that the engine would never suffer an oil-related failure if you used their oil. I have NEVER heard of an oil-related failure caused by not warming up an engine before putting it in gear.
 
Warm it up only long enough for it too respond to cracking the throttle and not miss fire and of course idle without stalling. Avoid high loads and the redline till it fully warmed up. Engines warm up faster when loaded a bit. Took my Auto pre-apprentiship in Dawson Creek where the average winter temp was -22 c , bless his Soul our teacher's first leason to us lower mainland Kids was how to take care and operate our cars in that weather.
 
Al st1100 said:
.......the ECM brings the mixture to 14.7 to1......
Click to expand...


Are you kidding? You don't have to Google very deeply to find out how ECMs actually keep modulating the AFR above and below this value in function of different operating parameters.

And the goal IS to stay as lean as possible for best fuel economy. Under some conditions leanest may be 12: 1, under others maybe 17:1.
 
The ECM in the Honda motorcycle goes on a preplanned map when it is cold, it monitors the sensors as the engine warms. As the reading on the sensors reach a certain level it compares the readings to the map in the program and adjusts its fuel to match .
A cold engine needs more fuel to run smoothly because cold air is dense and has more oxygen in it. The manufacturers kick the idle up for faster warm up and to keep the engine from stalling as well as adding in a richer mixture. Until the sensors start to operate a simpler EFI system has no idea what conditions it is operating under until the sensors reach a threshold. The STs EFI is a fairly simple one.
Which is why it operates differently at higher altitude, I have had mine stumble when riding in Butte Montana. Even warmed up it has a map it works off.
Yes, I warm mine up till the idle comes down on everything I own, habit and just knowing that really loud slam when the trans goes into !st gear is enough for me to wait a few minutes
Most of your wear is in the warm up stage, up to 90% or more, the worst thing you can do to a engine is shut it off and let it cool down. But that is a bit unreasonable.
As for hurry up and drive under light throttle and light load, it really doesn't make much difference from letting it idle down. They both are going to work fine. I am older school in believing that any load when cold is bad. But with quality control , more research and better oil, warming is not the same as it used to be..
I have a Kawasaki Concours, the fuel injection system is a whole bunch more sophisticated than the STs. It gets better mileage and is 1400 cc instead of 1300, mostly because its more accurate input information.
But you still can't have my ST, it has got its tire tracks on my insides and it won't let go
 
If the clunk or bang of dropping it in 1st when cold bothers you….,. Start it in 1st gear and ride off.
 
motornut said:
As for hurry up and drive under light throttle and light load, it really doesn't make much difference from letting it idle down.
Click to expand...


As you say.....

motornut said:
Most of your wear is in the warm up stage,
Click to expand...


...so best is to get up to operating temp as quick as possible....by driving off gently (which btw also allows the rest of the drive train to warm up as well).
 
From a cold start if I roll out of my driveway up hill [I really should figure out the actual grade, but it's - bus gets stuck in heavy snow if there's no sand / some push their bicycle - steep] before the ST1300 transitions down from fast idle, it needs some clutch slip to keep it smooth. Downhill still notice that it's a bit short on torque. Once I turn onto the flat after half block [maybe two bars?] either way it's just about no difference. Sometimes a partially warm start will give me a brief too low idle and I'll give a slight throttle pressure to hold it up over 1,000 rpm briefly.
I nearly always wait until the idle drops as a "idle / runs smooth" verification and to make the first few feet off the ground moments as predictable as possible.
 
Wish I could but can't, forget starting out with light throttle on a cold engine at an off-camber driveway exit to a highway. Got dumped in front of a bunch of other ST riders, which is the most embarrassing way to do that, so don't. :rolleyes:
 
MidLife said:
Which Web please ....? Others have cited their sources.

For example:

"All fuel-diluted oil samples have higher friction and wear losses "

Effect of gasoline–bioethanol blends on the properties and lubrication characteristics of commercial engine oil - RSC Advances (RSC Publishing) DOI:10.1039/C7RA00357A

pubs.rsc.org
Click to expand...
of course. but it still has some lubricating proprerties "How is a 2 stroke engine lubricated? 2 stroke engines use a crankcase to pressurize the air-fuel mixture before transfer to the cylinder. Unlike 4 stroke engines, they cannot be lubricated by oil contained in the crankcase and sump: lubricating oil would be swept up and burnt with the fuel. " web https://www.google.com/search?q=do+...i57j33i160.40642j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 ever change oil in a on a old 2 stroke dirt bike :thumb:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom