VRR and 6 PIN connector BURNED UP/MELTED

Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Messages
9
Location
Augusta, GA
Bike
1993 Honda ST1100 Pa
Good morning guys, so I have a 93 ST and I burned up the VRR and 6 pin connector.
New VRR is already here and I ordered what I THOUGHT would replace the stock one but it is not a match. I cannot find this piece anywhere. Can anyone point me in the right direction to solve this issue?
Thanks in advance I can't wait to get her back on the road
 

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Here you go
 
Before going to far and spending coin on a temporary fix. put a piece of paper under your bike where the alternator is located. Leave it overnight. Check the following morning for traces of oil. If there is, you have an alternator upgrade in store for you.
Also look at the main relay connector it too, might be in the same condition as your VRR connector.
The good news is that the replacement alternator is affordable, there is an adapter plate available from a member here who has duplicated it. The upgrade alternator has a built in VRR. Your bike will have a new lease on life and last for thousands of miles.
 
Here you go
Thanks man! Does this look like the right one?
 

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Before going to far and spending coin on a temporary fix. put a piece of paper under your bike where the alternator is located. Leave it overnight. Check the following morning for traces of oil. If there is, you have an alternator upgrade in store for you.
Also look at the main relay connector it too, might be in the same condition as your VRR connector.
The good news is that the replacement alternator is affordable, there is an adapter plate available from a member here who has duplicated it. The upgrade alternator has a built in VRR. Your bike will have a new lease on life and last for thousands of miles.
I called my local shop and they said it's no longer available for the 93? Where did you buy yours sir?
 
Good morning guys, so I have a 93 ST and I burned up the VRR and 6 pin connector.
New VRR is already here and I ordered what I THOUGHT would replace the stock one but it is not a match. I cannot find this piece anywhere. Can anyone point me in the right direction to solve this issue?
Thanks in advance I can't wait to get her back on the road
Pics of what I ordered
 

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Note that, unless your goal is to maintain original parts, you don't have to use an exact match. You could remove each half of the burnt-up connector and attach individual, insulated terminals to the wires.

Or, you could use any suitable plug and socket with enough terminals.
 
Note that, unless your goal is to maintain original parts, you don't have to use an exact match. You could remove each half of the burnt-up connector and attach individual, insulated terminals to the wires.

Or, you could use any suitable plug and socket with enough terminals.
Do you know of any tutorials or videos showing this process? I would love to learn and do this but want to do it correctly. Do I need to solder these terminals or what materials would I need to attempt this today? Sorry for the stupid questions I am new to this and have never done it before. Thank you for your help sir
 
To expand on Kiltman's post above, an oil leak does not necessarily mean the alternator is shot. They all seem to develop a leak at some point, usually from where the wire harness goes into the alternator.

However, you probably are looking at replacing the alternator anyway, with the amount of overheating seen at the 6P connector. You can't, as you found out, get a new 28 amp unit from Honda anymore, so you have to upgrade to the 40 amp unit used in all post '95 models. This is available as an aftermarket part, but you need that base plate mentioned above also to do the conversion.

This is a major job, which requires removal of the swing arm. I'll post the write up on how that is done, with the help of a loaner kit, if someone doesn't beat me to it, from the Archives of Wisdom.
 
Mechanical crimping is okay, soldering is better. Typical auto parts stores carry electrical terminals. You need to get pairs (male and female) of connectors suitable for the current and for the wire gauges involved.

Most popular are spade and bullet connectors:

1610220035189.png 1610220140710.png



As for how to use them, either search for "how to make electrical connections on motorcycles" and similar terms, or find a friend who is experienced with wiring. Good electrical connections should be both mechanically and electrically secure.
 
Repeating my reply to your same Q in the other thread earlier today:

“When I loan out the free STOC Alternator Upgrade kit, I ask the loanee to save their white 6P VRR connector (if serviceable) with enough length left on the leads so they can be easily spliced into someone’s harness. It’s not used with the 40amper.

Now is the time for one of you upgraders to step up and help this fellow. If not here then ask over on ST-Riders.net.

In the meantime, you can simply install female spade connectors onto your extant 6 leads and plug them into the VRR individually. You certainly wouldn’t be the first to do this. Heck, it’s been done done a few times roadside to get home. Probably a few STs still running that way. Oh yeah, one of the leads (the red one?) has a larger size spade than the others. As you’re home with it, I’d simply file/trim that spade in the VRR down so a regular spade fits. FWIW Good luck.

Edit: oh yeah2 - you need to inspect the entire system for corrosion/resistance that caused the meltdown, especially the red 3P with the yellow AC leads from the stator.”

John
 
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You can solder the wires together and forget about connectors. Many a VTX rider did this as the plug was a terrible connection. Its not something you mess with alot. Jmo
 
If you go the route of crimped terminals, either spade or a multipin connector, you use a special (but not expensive) crimp tool to crimp the tiny spades and female receivers to your wires. Do NOT solder them. Crimping leaves the stranded wire flexible and it will not break at the base of the crimp. Solder it and you are making the wire solid wire, and subject to metal fatigue from bending and vibration. It will eventually break. You can solder wires together, but you should do what is called a western union splice that gives you a mechanical bond as well. Probably only electricians and electronics guys know what I am talking about, but again, the purpose for the connectors was to make the pieces separate for service or replacement. If the soldered splice is subject to bending, we are back to the possibility of breakage.
 
Morning guys! So I got her all wired up with connectors and the electrical is good working condition. Went and bought a brand new battery. 4 new spark plugs and put fresh oil in her.
It will not turn over.
So now I'm looking at maybe a fuel pump issue or a clogged fuel line I believe? Any info on that? Headlights. Blinkers, horn, brights all of that works. And dash lights. What is my next step?
 

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