Vredestein Hypertrac All Season Tire

>I used a plastic grocery bag between the swingarm and the bigger rear tire, to slide it into place easily.
I cut a 2 gallon windshield washer bottle up and used that, together with some of the same tire goo used for mounting tires. It worked a treat.

I sure hope I mounted these tires in the right direction.
So far at 28psi (cold) I feel like these are very nearly invisible. I do notice that with the rear car tire, that it is much more noticable if the rear shock preload is less than it should be.

20240818_143203.jpg
Judging by the tread sipe cut directions, you got at least half of it going the right direction.
 
>I used a plastic grocery bag between the swingarm and the bigger rear tire, to slide it into place easily.
I cut a 2 gallon windshield washer bottle up and used that, together with some of the same tire goo used for mounting tires. It worked a treat.

I sure hope I mounted these tires in the right direction.
So far at 28psi (cold) I feel like these are very nearly invisible. I do notice that with the rear car tire, that it is much more noticable if the rear shock preload is less than it should be.

20240818_143203.jpg
20240818_143248.jpg
Did you pay close attention to the clearances on the BT46 front? Several people have had trouble with rubbing on the fender as the BT46 has a different profile than the BT45 did.

B
 
I have the Double Dark Vredestein / BT46 setup recently installed - the installer cannot balance the wheels so I'm thinking about using balancing beads..
Does it work ? can I install it through the valve stem ?
What oz do i need ?
what to dop with the existing counterweight on the rims ?

thanks
 
I'm honestly not sure whether the V-stein was balanced or not, it was a drive-by hispanic kind of place. It may well not have been balanced.

As for the B-stone, we used a Mark Parnes balancer in my friend's garage.
 
The wheels should be able to be manually balanced if you didn't want to go the bead route.

Something along this line. I bought my balancer from Princess Auto and stick on weights from Fortnine.



For the beads, I've not used them yet, but I'd follow the instructions for a MC tire for the DS'd front (it is a MC tire afterall) and for a CT for the rear. Start with a smaller amount. You can always add more if it feels a bit off. Much harder to remove them if you get too many.... ;)

As for the old weights, if you do beads, remove the weights. No need for both. The old weights would have been for the old tire/rim setup. Even if you do stick-ons, remove the old weights first.
 
stick the axle thru the wheel and set it up like this video. I didn't use the small bearings. Get some stick on wheel weights . did this on all my wheels for the last 10 years , no problems.
 
Here is an update on this fantastic tire, it is the best handling dark side tire that I have used and I have used several. I now have 32,000 miles on it and I am going to replace it now, I was trying to wear it out on my trip to Idaho last month and when I got home there was still a lot of rubber left. I then ride another 2500 miles on it before making another trip to Idaho and it still has a bit left.

I will be replacing it with the same tire as I am very happy with it. My 2012 ST1300 has the same tire on it.

This is the most miles on any tire I have ever used. Some people might get more out of this tire but I primarily ride on two lane twisty roads where the asphalt is usually not in good shape and my biggest problem with my tires is my right wrist!!

Here is a picture of the tire now.

PXL_20241021_231925887.MP.jpg
 
The price point of this tire easily justifies an "early" replacement.
That 32k would in all likelihood require 4 rear m/c tires at my average mileage, and as I enjoy premium sport rubber at twice the price per tire (at least!), we can say it would cost me EIGHT-x as much.
Considering my favorite tires are Michelin and Dunlop for my style of riding, you've provided me some of the best equipment advice I've ever had in 5 decades of riding.
So I thank you once again, Mike, and for the few reading this who haven't heard me say this many times before -- I am convinced I'm giving up NOTHING in handling, longevity, safety or comfort by switching to this tire.
 
The price point of this tire easily justifies an "early" replacement.
That 32k would in all likelihood require 4 rear m/c tires at my average mileage, and as I enjoy premium sport rubber at twice the price per tire (at least!), we can say it would cost me EIGHT-x as much.
Considering my favorite tires are Michelin and Dunlop for my style of riding, you've provided me some of the best equipment advice I've ever had in 5 decades of riding.
So I thank you once again, Mike, and for the few reading this who haven't heard me say this many times before -- I am convinced I'm giving up NOTHING in handling, longevity, safety or comfort by switching to this tire.

So when's the Beemer going dark?
 
So when's the Beemer going dark?
When you see icicles in hell.
But actually, the paint scheme is called Triple Black, so it's already dark enough.
With the cost savings mentioned above, I'm under no pressure (see what I did there) to scrimp on dirt rubber. (Although I will admit to you and no one else, I did score a very slightly used set of Dunlop Trailmax Missions on ADVrider for a ridiculously low price, with shipping.)
This Big Mule will see miles and topography unattainable (or at least unreasonable).to the ST.
 
So let's then amend your statement to:

FOR THE ST1300 "
I am convinced I'm giving up NOTHING in handling, longevity, safety or comfort by switching to this tire."
 
The price point of this tire easily justifies an "early" replacement.
That 32k would in all likelihood require 4 rear m/c tires at my average mileage, and as I enjoy premium sport rubber at twice the price per tire (at least!), we can say it would cost me EIGHT-x as much.
Considering my favorite tires are Michelin and Dunlop for my style of riding, you've provided me some of the best equipment advice I've ever had in 5 decades of riding.
So I thank you once again, Mike, and for the few reading this who haven't heard me say this many times before -- I am convinced I'm giving up NOTHING in handling, longevity, safety or comfort by switching to this tire.
I would have been through at least 5 PR5 tires as I got 6000 miles out of a set on my 2012 ST.
 
So when's the Beemer going dark?
Oh the horror. A darkside in a BMW. 20,000 miles and counting. I'll have to give VD tire a try next time.

 
This is the static balancer I considered buying a few years ago. Very good quality and reputation. It seems the most important part of these balancers is the bearings the axle sits on. The stand can be two regular jack stands. I don't go through enough tires to justify it though and maybe selling my mighty ST because of lower back problems.


As far as balancing beads, they do work. Put them through in the valve stem or dump them in when mounting the tire. You're supposed to get proper valve stems for them too, as they come with stoppers on the ends to prevemnt the small beads from penetrating the stem mechanism from the inside. Some have had the air leak out right after checking the tire pressure (me) as the valve got stuck. A quick fill up of air (if you have it) will clear the valve again. Check the air pressure with the valve halfway or on top of the tire.

Find a small length of plastic tubing (6") and fit it over the valve stem with the valve removed. Fill it half full and give the other end a quick shot of compressed air and they go in the tire. Watch out for the back pressure of air. Release the blow gun seal slowly.

The beads do slightly chew up the inside carcass of the tire and can't be re used, but no issues with tire longevity to my knowledge.

I just replaced my rear tire as I had a sliver of metal in it. It already had over 11,000 kms so I didn't bother patching it. I had the new tire balanced at a motorcyle garage and it balanced with "no weight" I've never seen that before.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Obo
Oh the horror. A darkside in a BMW. 20,000 miles and counting. I'll have to give VD tire a try next time.

So you fit the 205/50 tire ? Any mods? I'm measuring my 1200rt and it looks to be very close. I'm trying to find a used one for a mock up.
 
Well this thread convinced me and I'm on my last GYTT so we'll give this one a go. Thanks Mike.

FWIW, I've been running the 130 BT46 on the front and haven't had a fender crack, but maybe I've just jinxed it.
 
Well this thread convinced me and I'm on my last GYTT so we'll give this one a go. Thanks Mike.

FWIW, I've been running the 130 BT46 on the front and haven't had a fender crack, but maybe I've just jinxed it.
The older BT tires were about 3/4" narrower and had no problems fitting, I am not sure why they made the 130/70/18 wider now.
 
The older BT tires were about 3/4" narrower and had no problems fitting, I am not sure why they made the 130/70/18 wider now.
I wonder which year the wider rubber appeared?

My front is taller, to the point I had to remove the front fender just to install it, but once fitted i have no fitment or clearance issues. I only had to move the fender up above the tire to get the wheel in, but then everything fit back together.

No rubbing anywhere up front.
 
I wonder which year the wider rubber appeared?

My front is taller, to the point I had to remove the front fender just to install it, but once fitted i have no fitment or clearance issues. I only had to move the fender up above the tire to get the wheel in, but then everything fit back together.

No rubbing anywhere up front.
I just place a jack under the engine and jack the bike up enough to place a 2x6 under the center stand which allows you to just remove the tire without removing the fender.
 
Back
Top Bottom