Vacuum bleeder pump not working

JimS

JimS

Today is a Good Day to Ride
Joined
Sep 28, 2007
Messages
109
Location
Southern Colorado
Bike
'06
Just purchased a Craftsman hand vacuum pump/bleeder kit. When I connect the reservoir to the pump and cover the inlet port with my finger, then operate the pump, it creates no vacuum (as observed on the vacuum gauge). With the reservoir removed and my finger on the pump, it creates vacuum just fine.

I noticed the reservoir does not make an airtight seal between the lid and the jar, as I can force air through the lid ports with my finger covering either port and blowing on the other.

So my question is; shouldn't the reservoir jar be airtight? Seems like a fundamental part of creating a vacuum. Observing the lid, though there is a little rubber gasket formed into it, the locking "teeth" don't seem to fit well onto the matching part on the jar.

Thanks for any help.
Jim
 
Hey Jim,
Does this mean you're planning on some riding? How are ya'?

The Craftsman seems to be the same as my Mityvac and I went out and tried mine. Haven't used it in quite a while. At first, when I'd draw 12 in of hg with my finger over the hose, it would start dropping almost as soon as I stopped pumping. Then I moistened all the connections and the top of the jar (with plain ol' spit) and pumped it up to 12 and it just sat there and held it. Also, though I doubt it matters if you're not drawing liquid in, there is one connection labeled "to the pump." Hope this helps, if not I'll be in Pueblo tomorrow and could meet you there and you can borrow mine.

Rod
 
I had the same problem with a Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder. I took the rubber seal out of the reservoir lid, and replaced it with a o ring of the proper diameter (available at Ace Hardware, in the plumbing section.) It works fine now.
 
Yeah, the problem is definitely with the lid seal into the jar. The teeth on the lid are of a soft, rubber-like material, and as I tighten it on, I can see how it tends to stretch, and is just not a good fit.

So, I went an bought an Actron cp7835 vacuum kit and it had the same problem! So I'm thinking I'm not doing something right. The Actron's instructions direct you to put some lube on the rim of the jar, and even includes some (which I did). What it meant was to apply liberally, because after I basically applied the entire tube, it did in fact hold a seal.

Afterwards, I went back and re-read the instructions which came with the Craftsman (model 20930). Not only no mention of applying lube, it cautioned against over-tightening (which was not the case for me). Needless to say, it's being returned. :mad:

Overall, though a good newbie experience, and a successful clutch fluid replacement. Didn't realize how dirty it was until it emptied into the jar, along with what looked like paint flakes. Next, onto the brakes! :eek:

Hey Rod! I'm doin' great. I think I'm going to head to AZ next week. Want to ride along? :cool:

Roger, thanks for the tip.
 
Glad to hear you're riding to AZ, good news. Wish I could go, but Loanne had her second knee surgery and I'm still on Go-fer duty.

I was thinking that a tube of silicone grease that I got at NAPA (pt #765-1351) which says it's "harmless on rubber" might be better than spit! Looked at the Actron on line and it looks better, sturdier, etc. Also noticed on their website you can buy separate parts.

Have a safe trip,

Rod
 
+1 on the Vaseline and/or silicone grease. I had the exact same symptoms and solutions on the manual vacuum bleeder kit I bought for my clutch fluid replacement job. Once I lubed the catch-jar lid, all was well.
 
It was a different story with the brakes. Cleaning both the control valve and rear brake lines required a more sustained vacuum. It will hold around 12hg's for only a short while, then begins to leak, and no amount of pumping will recover it. I have to apply more lubricant for it to work for a short time again. I just think it's a cheap part. Looking back, it would have been worth it to get one that MileHigh uses in his article which uses a compressor. :nuts1:
 
bled mine in no time the old fashioned way, got tired ofthe vac pump not being able to draw vacuum on the line,s that leak air if no loosened just right
 
JimS said:
It was a different story with the brakes. Cleaning both the control valve and rear brake lines required a more sustained vacuum. It will hold around 12hg's for only a short while, then begins to leak, and no amount of pumping will recover it. I have to apply more lubricant for it to work for a short time again. I just think it's a cheap part. Looking back, it would have been worth it to get one that MileHigh uses in his article which uses a compressor. :nuts1:
Click to expand...
Here's my homemade version to use with a compressor. I have used it on my bike and cars. Works great.

2790819886_c237bb964d.jpg


Here's a Harbor Freight one that works on the same principle

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
 
That is impressive! What did you use for the fitting next to the air hose. I can see making something like that with a valve to control the amount of air flowing thru.:06biker:
 
BlackPaw said:
That is impressive! What did you use for the fitting next to the air hose. I can see making something like that with a valve to control the amount of air flowing thru.:06biker:
Click to expand...

Just a 1/4" tee

Parts List (Lowes)
1/4" FIP Pipe Tee (about $2)
Two 3/16"X Barb Splicer 3/16"(about $2 each)
1/4" MIP X 3/16" Barb (about $2)
Roll of small Tygon Tubing (about $4)
Two Rubber Grommets (about $1.50 each)
Mason Jar and lid (Free) in Fridge

Construction- Drill two holes in Mason Jar lid and insert rubber grommets
Insert the two 3/16" barb splicers thru
Connect two pieces of tygon tubing to the barb splicers
Connect 1/4" MIP X 3/16" Barb to bottom of tee

To use...connect the open end of the tubing to the bleeder screw on the caliper, crack it open and blow air thru the two open ends of the tee. This creates a venturi effect (suction) on the tubing and mason jar. The fluid collects in the jar. This works for sucking out the old fluid or pulling the new fluid thru the lines.


I have also thought about a valve to control the airflow, but haven't gotten around to it. I think you would need some sort of an orifice in order to maintain a high velocity air stream through the tee. I can sort of control it by lowering the outlet pressure on the compressor. Not a whole lot of engineering went into it, but it works great. :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom