For both of youse guys, lipSTick is suffering the same cold start symptoms. Runs fine and gets good mileage when warm, but doesn't wanna start even as warm as 50. I had to use ether to get'er started in New Boston, TX on Monday morning at 28?. Hadn't thought of the enrichener circuits, I'll run some Sea Foam thru her on the next tank. BTW, this has come on slowly, just really noticed it the last couple months. With generally warm weather until this most recent trip, hasn't been a problem.
Jonathan, I don't recognize that piece of torn rubber either, and I've been into many STs. Wonder if it's part of the rubber sheet which should be UNDER the carbs, got replaced wrong at one time or another? (Just a guess.)
Anyhoo, the "valley plumbing" referred to are the coolant hoses under the carbs. Recommend replacement before 122,000 miles (STick blew a hose at 122,000 plus.
) With the carbs off, check the right front coolant hose and the PAIR valve hose clamp underneath. On mine that clamp rubbed a hole after those many miles. On several bikes with fewer miles, I've found that clamp intruding. Look closely, could save ya a headache. Mike Martin's maintenance site has the complete list of parts needed to refresh the coolant system, hoses, thermostat, etc.
Checking the valves is no big deal but changing the shims (if necessary) is more problematic. I suggest getting an experienced hand to help if ya do need changes. At least, the first time.
(Have I written this up before?)
To check the valves, pull the maintenance covers and knee panels. Pull the valve covers. Put the bike in fifth gear and turn it over by rotating the back wheel forward. As each cam lobe stands straight out from the head, measure with a good set of gauges. I use "go-no go" as best indicator for correct setting, no need to be anal UNLESS one of'em indicates out-of-spec. Using this method, no need to remove the lower cowl or timing mark cover, no need to check any of the other settings. Yur just looking for the loose or tight valve.
If ya DO find valves out of spec (too tight or too loose) then you can get anal and start following the book.
Agree you probably need a new timing belt.
Anyhoo, both of ya please keep us poSTed as to your final solutions. Always interesting reading.
Jonathan, I don't recognize that piece of torn rubber either, and I've been into many STs. Wonder if it's part of the rubber sheet which should be UNDER the carbs, got replaced wrong at one time or another? (Just a guess.)
Anyhoo, the "valley plumbing" referred to are the coolant hoses under the carbs. Recommend replacement before 122,000 miles (STick blew a hose at 122,000 plus.
) With the carbs off, check the right front coolant hose and the PAIR valve hose clamp underneath. On mine that clamp rubbed a hole after those many miles. On several bikes with fewer miles, I've found that clamp intruding. Look closely, could save ya a headache. Mike Martin's maintenance site has the complete list of parts needed to refresh the coolant system, hoses, thermostat, etc.Checking the valves is no big deal but changing the shims (if necessary) is more problematic. I suggest getting an experienced hand to help if ya do need changes. At least, the first time.
(Have I written this up before?)
To check the valves, pull the maintenance covers and knee panels. Pull the valve covers. Put the bike in fifth gear and turn it over by rotating the back wheel forward. As each cam lobe stands straight out from the head, measure with a good set of gauges. I use "go-no go" as best indicator for correct setting, no need to be anal UNLESS one of'em indicates out-of-spec. Using this method, no need to remove the lower cowl or timing mark cover, no need to check any of the other settings. Yur just looking for the loose or tight valve.
If ya DO find valves out of spec (too tight or too loose) then you can get anal and start following the book.
Agree you probably need a new timing belt.
Anyhoo, both of ya please keep us poSTed as to your final solutions. Always interesting reading.
Yeah, I had it backwards. Had to re-read the high altitude adjustment procedure to get my head straight: "Turn each pilot screw clockwise 1/2 turn..." Clockwise = In = Lean for high altitude.