Throttle Body Removal

When the time comes to re-install the throttle bodies, you will need to re-tighten the clamps that hold the lower portion of the rubber boot onto the engine. There is a unique procedure for doing this: You don't tighten the clamps based on torque values, instead, you tighten the clamps until there is a specified gap between the bands of the clamps.

I made a post a year ago showing how you can construct a measuring tool from a credit card or plastic hotel room key and use this tool to measure the correct gap. That post also contains some pictures that might help you figure out how to access the screw-heads on the clamps to loosen them. Here's the link:

An inexpensive tool for correctly installing ST 1300 Throttle Body Insulators

Michael
 
I did say to pull up on the pipe but I pulled so hard that the bike lifted one foot of the center stand off the ground and the TB still did not budge. Then I placed one foot on the right foot peg and used the strength in my leg to push up, similar to putting the bike on the center stand, and the TB came off.
 
Yeah, they are very hard to dislodge "the first time" (meaning, after 10 or 15 years since the bike was first assembled), but it is easier to remove them after that.... like, for example, once you have re-assembled everything and discover that you forgot to connect one hose or wire underneath the throttle bodies. :)

Michael
 
CYYJ said:
Yeah, they are very hard to dislodge "the first time" (meaning, after 10 or 15 years since the bike was first assembled), but it is easier to remove them after that.... like, for example, once you have re-assembled everything and discover that you forgot to connect one hose or wire underneath the throttle bodies. :)
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Been there, done that - just not on this bike! lol
 
Multiple methods worked, but destroyed the rubbers in the process. Replacements on the way!

How does the wax unit come off the cable? It appears to be threaded - should I mark a spot on it and screw it out or is there another something I'm not getting here?
 
on my 1300 the wax valve didn't hook to any cables. The shaft had a plastic slide on it that hooked into the air valve mechanism. then 2 bolts on the bottom side. Oh and the cooling fluid lines.
 
Aladinbama said:
I have to replace the wax thingy and need to get the throttle bodies off. Aside from the screws being a pain in the rear to get to it seems the TB doesn't want to move (not even wiggle). I still have one screw to go, but it sure seems secure for one (seemingly) loose screw to be holding everything so tightly. Everything else is disconnected already (except the water tubes at the bottom).

Any tips or tricks?
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I think I have a bad one too on my 2003 with 80K miles. Did you buy a new one and if so, how much $$$? Is there any way to troubleshoot it to make absolutely sure it's the problem and not some other component? I wonder how often they go bad? I live in Sacrament so it doesn't get that cold here like say in Wyoming.
 
tystew53 said:
I think I have a bad one too on my 2003 with 80K miles. Did you buy a new one and if so, how much $$$? Is there any way to troubleshoot it to make absolutely sure it's the problem and not some other component? I wonder how often they go bad? I live in Sacrament so it doesn't get that cold here like say in Wyoming.
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I order pretty much all of my parts unless I HAVE TO HAVE IT SOON and then I get them from the stealer! I think it was @$45 at Babbits. I'd recommend going ahead and ordering the carb boots too. My 04's were pretty hard and brittle!

I have no idea about troubleshooting it. It was just in the troubleshooting section of the cheap manual I bought to work on it with. You can test it, but you have to take it off to do so and since I went that far already I figured I'd go ahead and change it out.
You're suppose to apply a heat source (heat gun) and make it expand and remove and it contracts back if it's working properly. Mine didn't contract back!
 
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@Aladinbama :

When you do re-assemble everything, be really cautious about getting the orientation of the rubber insulators & the bands that go around them correct. The insulators have a top and bottom - they are not symmetrical - and I think that the upper and lower clamps might be slightly different. There are tiny holes in the clamps that fit over little projections moulded into the clamps, this to prevent the clamp from rotating as you tighten it. The critical issue is orienting everything such that you can get a very long-handled screwdriver onto the bolt-head at the end of the clamps by sticking the screwdriver through the sides and front of the engine, as shown by the red arrows in the picture below.

Michael

tb-clamp-orientation-jpg.234464
 
CYYJ said:
@Aladinbama :

When you do re-assemble everything, be really cautious about getting the orientation of the rubber insulators & the bands that go around them correct. The insulators have a top and bottom - they are not symmetrical - and I think that the upper and lower clamps might be slightly different. There are tiny holes in the clamps that fit over little projections moulded into the clamps, this to prevent the clamp from rotating as you tighten it. The critical issue is orienting everything such that you can get a very long-handled screwdriver onto the bolt-head at the end of the clamps by sticking the screwdriver through the sides and front of the engine, as shown by the red arrows in the picture below.

Michael
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I saw that!
My b-i-l introduced me to neat little sockets that were actually swivels too. Not a swivel extension, the the socket actually swivels. Helped TONS in disassembly as I couldn't get my screwdriver through one of those holes (right side #4)!
 
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