Throttle Body Removal

Aladinbama

Aladinbama

Joined
Sep 11, 2011
Messages
341
Location
Pearland, Tx.
Bike
97 ST1100 04 ST1300
I have to replace the wax thingy and need to get the throttle bodies off. Aside from the screws being a pain in the rear to get to it seems the TB doesn't want to move (not even wiggle). I still have one screw to go, but it sure seems secure for one (seemingly) loose screw to be holding everything so tightly. Everything else is disconnected already (except the water tubes at the bottom).

Any tips or tricks?
 
If the intake boot clamp bands are all loose it should just take a bit of force to pop the TB off. I took a piece of pipe to use as a lever and a soft nylon loop under one side of the TB frame. I padded the top of the frame under the pipe and levered the TB off by pulling up on the end of the pipe. Larry has mentioned squirting some light oil or lubricant around the top of the boots to help release the boots from the intake manifold or TB.
 
The rubber boots are the only thing physically holding the TB's to the cylinder head. Bear in mind that on your bike they have been clamped up tight for 16 years so will be somewhat stuck on. If you can I'd suggest gently prying around them to break the seal, and maybe a little penetrating oil. Some heat (like a hair dryer) would also help to make them more pliable. After that you may need to find a solid part of the TB casting that you can use as a gentle prying point. The rubber boots are inexpensive at $12 each, and new ones will be much more pliable and easily sealed.
 
NewtonNole said:
Lever it. I had to when erroneously praying the Knock Sensor was the wiring harness. No such luck ECM.
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lol!

I've got an ECM waiting for the same issue. The day I received the ECM is the day this thing died (before I tried to change it out)!
 
the way I do it...and I've removed throttlebodies, at least five times!

I CAREFULLY remove the two bolts at the right side rear, where the brace and the right rear throttlebody is at.

Once I remove them(without dropping them down the abyss), I use a large screwdriver or prybar on that right rear throttlebody and they pop up okay.

before reinstalling, I use a little plumber's grease on the four rubber mounts and it slips right on in, then you need to replace those two bolts. You can try to replace them before hand, but if you do, don't tighten them up, until after you have seated the throttlebodies back in.

You're welcome! :)
 
Hello......for what its worth. I just removed mine at start of winter. Because the boots seemed rigid ( not pliable ), I warmed them for at least an hour. The pry method with a strap was a success. The pry method was wickedly unsuccessful until I warmed them with a mild heater covered with a towel (vented). I was so happy because, at my age, I've never experienced boots that seemed so rigid that it scared me, lol.
 
SupraSabre said:
I CAREFULLY remove the two bolts at the right side rear, where the brace and the right rear throttlebody is at.

Once I remove them(without dropping them down the abyss), I use a large screwdriver or prybar on that right rear throttlebody and they pop up okay.
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Forgive me as I'm apparently brain dead today, but what does taking those two bolts out do for you? What advantage to prying does that give you? The bracket is still there. Where do you pry? I've got a large SD and prybar, but I guess I'm just afraid I'm going to break something!

I guess I should just go for it - the broomstick method for my 1100's carbs didn't seem right either until I did it - lol!
 
Aladinbama said:
Forgive me as I'm apparently brain dead today, but what does taking those two bolts out do for you? What advantage to prying does that give you? The bracket is still there. Where do you pry? I've got a large SD and prybar, but I guess I'm just afraid I'm going to break something!

I guess I should just go for it - the broomstick method for my 1100's carbs didn't seem right either until I did it - lol!
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Removing the bolts relieve the pressure on the four different throttlebodies that that rear brace puts on it, thus allowing the right rear throttlebody to be pried up easier.

You put a rag or something on the frame behind the throttlebody, and pry against the rear right throttlebody. See diagram

Throttlebodyprypoints.jpg

Hope that helps!

As long as you are careful when doing this, you shouldn't have any issues.

But, if you do and if you break it or lose those two bolts, let me know and I'll send you replacements!

That's how confident I am about pulling them this way!
 
Someone else posted he removed his TB's with the strap and a 2 x 4 across the top of the frame tubes. Gentle heat and if you can get a squirt of WD or penetrating oil down there sounds like the way to go. I'd suggest a small dab of silicone grease on the new boots - it doesn't harm rubber.
 
SupraSabre said:
Removing the bolts relieve the pressure on the four different throttlebodies that that rear brace puts on it, thus allowing the right rear throttlebody to be pried up easier.

You put a rag or something on the frame behind the throttlebody, and pry against the rear right throttlebody. See diagram

Hope that helps!
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Bolts are out and it didn't budge much (if at all). I've got a small crowbar that I'm using.
I'll give it shot again soon! Probably just scared that I'll break something!
I sprayed a bit of WD-40 on it. Tomorrow I'll add some warmth in if I can't get it!
 
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WD-40 is a solvent, not a penetrating oil.
Try some PB Blaster, or if you can't find some, mix equal parts of Acetone and ATF Fluid and use that.
Remember when you finally put everything back together, new boots would be wise, and don't tighten the clamps down. They are to be tightened to a measurement between the flats on the clamp and no more, or you'll be dealing with air leaks etc.
 
Well, I said it will make it easier, not easy! :rolleyes:

BTW, how cold is your working area? That will effect how tightly they are held in place.

When I removed the '04#2 throttlebodies the first time, they were held in there pretty tight. You might need a bigger prybar. Mine was about 18" long and it did take some pressure to break them free. Just don't use a hammer or anything to wack the prybar. You could use a large rubber mallet, tap down LIGHTLY on a small piece of wood, sitting on the throttlebodies, that might help break the bond between the two parts.

Even the 2x4 method could have the same issue of trying to break them free from the boots.

More pictures...

Okay, this is a side view of where you are prying, look right under, there is another area that you can pry at that has a little more meat to it.
DSC05893-se.jpg

Here are some old boots I have floating around, trust me, they are as hard as rock! Some heat just might soften them up enough. Remember, these are at least 16 years old rubber!

DSC05894-s.jpg

Sorry the pictures are not crystal clear...
 
First off, I've not done this, so I am no expert. My ideas come from basic mechanics, and reading reading reading the posts on this website. Old rubber is hard and will tend to bond (stick) to metal. You have two* basic ways of breaking that bond and stiffness, heat and solvents. For the heat, I'd consider making a "bubble" of thin mil plastic around the bike and putting an electric heater inside (assuming you are working in a cool to cold area). This would be a bit of work, admittedly, but if you can warm the bike up to around 65-75 deg, that will make the next step easier. Next I'd use a hot air gun/hair dryer to blow warmer air into the area between the frame tubes and down onto the throttle bodies. Get this area good and warm to the touch. This is going to help evaporate any penetrating oil but I think getting the oil where it is needed is going to be difficult (and the heavier components of pen oil won't evaporate). I don't like prying against a soft metal (cast aluminum) but I do like the idea of looping webbing or thick soft rope around the solid body of the TB, tying it on top of a 2x4 atop the frame tubes, and lifting on the end of the 2x. Enough guys have broken stuck throttle bodies loose with no damage that I have to think the job is doable, although probably not a trivial task.

*Ok, three if you include using a rubber mallet on the top of the TB's hoping the mechanical shock will break the rubber to metal bond below.
 
SupraSabre said:
Here are some old boots I have floating around, trust me, they are as hard as rock! Some heat just might soften them up enough. Remember, these are at least 16 years old rubber!
Click to expand...
It is pretty chilly in there so I'll put some heat near it for a while and see what happens. And don't worry, it's a wimpy heater that doesn't get real hot, but does put out good warm air! I've got a decent heat gun too if needed.

I am familiar with the rubber boots AND the force necessary to initially break them. The broomstick method on my 1100's carbs was a bit to swallow until after I did it. And the belt/strap method for putting on V65 Sabre carbs had me scratching my head too (until I did it SEVERAL TIMES - lol). I believe I changed out both sets of boots too - I know the V65's were cracked up pretty bad!
I'm just afraid of breaking stuff!

I'm not familiar with the 2x4 method - ??
 
Aladinbama said:
It is pretty chilly in there so I'll put some heat near it for a while and see what happens. And don't worry, it's a wimpy heater that doesn't get real hot, but does put out good warm air! I've got a decent heat gun too if needed.

I am familiar with the rubber boots AND the force necessary to initially break them. The broomstick method on my 1100's carbs was a bit to swallow until after I did it. And the belt/strap method for putting on V65 Sabre carbs had me scratching my head too (until I did it SEVERAL TIMES - lol). I believe I changed out both sets of boots too - I know the V65's were cracked up pretty bad!
I'm just afraid of breaking stuff!

I'm not familiar with the 2x4 method - ??
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Same as the broomstick...neither of what I have used.

If you have messed with the carbs on V65 Sabres, you shouldn't have too much of a problem with the ST1300! MUCH easier! I haven't messed with a ST1100s at all, but I had VF700S/V45/V65 Sabres for 20 years, and did R&R on the carbs more times than I would like to think about!

Get heat and good luck!
 
Andrew Shadow said:
Same as below but with a 2 X 4.
Courtesy of Dave- @dduelin

1579882352689.png
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Looks like in this method, you are using and area to pull up on that might not be a strong as the area I'm suggesting to pry on...

I'll stick to the prybar method... I know it works for me.
 
SupraSabre said:
Looks like in this method, you are using and area to pull up on that might not be a strong as the area I'm suggesting to pry on...

I'll stick to the prybar method... I know it works for me.
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What works best for you. This worked for me when I was in the same spot as the OP.
 
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