That time of year; new Tires VS color Dots

[Tom Mac 04a]

I know we've gone thru this before, but I fiq I post it again to let all newer guys read it...

I just went to mount new tires on mine and my friends bikes. The tires came with white dots and red dots ( prev one had a yellow ).

So the question comes up , Where to put the Dot!

First, I'll mentioned that by default ( IMO ) the dots go with the valve stem.... this seems to be standard accross various brands ( the dot being light on the tire and the valve being heavy on the rim )

But, some rims, esp cast will have heavy marks/dots on them and then the dot on tire should be aligned with that AND the valve is not always the heavy spot.

My method;
1) remove old tire, clean bead, remove any weights
2) balance rim and mark inside the heavy spot ( I use nail polish )
3) place tire dot at heavy rim spot and then spin balance as normal

Using this method , I can get a tire to have very little or at times no weights ( spin balance is accurate to 1/8oz ). And I don't go crazy by cutting weights to 1/2 size... if you get it within 1/4oz, the tire will be fine.

So, as a following note... what colors dots have you seen and on what tires?? Bridgestones use red and white or yellow at times ( sometimes 2 diff colors , one color is static balance and one is a diff sort of spin rotation forces away from rim )... either way balance rim first to have min weights.

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

Shinko tires I just put on a Wee; red dot = light spot

 

[BakerBoy]

Seems a number of tire manufacturers have dropped the dots... The last few tires I've mounted had none to find. And my last few Michelins (PR2s, PR3s) don't have dots.

I too have found and marked the heavy spot on my rims, but then the tires I've used aren't marked.

 

[caldercay]

1) remove old tire, clean bead, remove any weights
2) balance rim and mark inside the heavy spot ( I use nail polish )
3) place tire dot at heavy rim spot and then spin balance as normal

Exactly how I do it ... don't trust the rim ... I always check its heavy spot, every tire change.

So, as a following note... what colors dots have you seen and on what tires?? Bridgestones use red and white or yellow at times ( sometimes 2 diff colors , one color is static balance and one is a diff sort of spin rotation forces away from rim )... either way balance rim first to have min weights.

Color doesn't matter, and with some manufacturers, there is *no* dot. The Michelin's I put on the CBR have no dot (front and rear).

The Pirelli Angel GTs on the ST have two red dots next to each other.

 

[Nashcat]

Red dots are put on the high point of the tire and dimples put on low point of the wheel, so that when mounted dot-to-dot, you have the best possible combination of concentricity. (Roundness). Most of the time, the high point of the tire is often the heavy point, but not always.

Yellow dots are the light point on the tire and should be mounted inline with the valve stem. EXCEPT! The red dot takes precedence. In you have red and yellow dots and have a dimple, mount red-to-dimple to get the roundness. Balance can be corrected with weights.

Read about it here.
http://www.tirebusiness.com/article...s-those-color-coded-sidewall-markings-serve-a

I worked 5 years on equipment that measured and marked low points on Ford PU rims. I learned quite a bit about wheels and tires, but trying to find a tire shop where they have heard about "match mounting" make it all worthless.

John

 

[Firstpeke]

If you tyre has no markings it would be best to check the interior for any product joins, which there has to be given the nature of the way they are made, this is where there is an overlap of the casing material.... this should also be the heavy spot.

Mark the outside of the casing at this point and put that at the side opposite the valve.

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

I worked 5 years on equipment that measured and marked low points on Ford PU rims. I learned quite a bit about wheels and tires, but trying to find a tire shop where they have heard about "match mounting" make it all worthless.

Thanks for the info.... That's why i do all my tires myself. Not overly anal, but I want it done right.

As to the none marked tires, I throw them on and pop the bead then do a test balance with old weights... if it uses more than 3 (1/4oz) tabs, I'll break it again and rotate the tire 180d... then remount.
Usu it helps a little.

 

[roginoz]

Or, for the truly anal:
You can balance the wheel without mounting a tire. Mark the light spot, and temporarily affix weights to balance. Mount the tire, and determine the "new" heavy spot. Break the bead, and rotate the heavy spot on the tire to match the light spot on the wheel. Remove the temporary weights, and re-balance the wheel.

For the really, really, anal:
balance the bare wheel without the rotors, bolt one rotor on, check the balance to see if the rotor has changed the balance. (It probably hasn't.) Move the heavy spot on the rotor to the light spot on the wheel. Repeat with the second rotor (if equipped.) It there's a sproket or drive pulley, repeat to compensate for it's balance. (The rear drive pulley on my XR1200 did have a slightly heavy spot.) Once the wheel and rotors are aligned for best balance, the procedure at the top of the post is all that's necessary.

Yeah, I did this once. I had to move the pulley and rotors from my stock XR wheels to a new set of forged wheels.

 

[Firstpeke]

Or just pour in two ounces of Dynabeads....... fixed.