Swinging arm swap

[Nucker]

Hi All, I'm new to this forum and thought I should join as I have just become the unexpected owner of 2 ST1100's that have been keeping each other company in a garage for many years.
After an initial survey of the first one, I find that there is some corrosion on the swinging arm. "Thats to be expected" I hear you say... So I set about researching the issue and find that I have a few choices.
1. Remove and repair it
2. Buy a second hand one and hope its better than the one I have.
3. Buy a new one if such a thing still exists and I can afford it if it does.
Or.. a thought occurred to me as I was scrolling through the second hand items listed on Ebay, maybe replace it with an aluminium one off an ST1300.... If it would fit??
Does anyone here know if this would be possible? has anyone tried? If so, did it work? and how easy/hard was it ?
Please forgive me if this is a daft question but as I said, I have only just become the owner of said bikes and have had no experience of this model at all previously and could find no mention of such a swap in any forum or owners group... surely I am not the first to think of doing this?

 

[Upt' North]

Welcome Nucker from Northumberland.
The 11's and 13's are different beasts and whilst anything is possible it doesn't make it probable. Daft? Ay, if this is daft then lord knows what some of the other stuff we discuss could be classed as.
I was faced with a similar dilemma, not because it was rotten but what if it became so.
My conclusion was to locate a rust free example and once painted and waxoiled put it on the shelf. Which I did.
I found the States was the best option, obviously postage is a ...... how much .....and ..... customs .....blummin ink. But it worked out well enough and all in I think it was around £120 for a rust free example. It went with the bike when I sold it. I think they are harder to find and more expensive now.
I personally wouldn't he happy repairing one because I don't think you would ever get at all the rust, it's a complicated shape and construction. But if you're proper clever with a cutting disc and a welder then maybe that's OK too. It would certainly be a cheaper option as long as you're not paying for the repair.
I hope some of that drivel helps.
Upt.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I might suggest trying to source a used one from the USA EBay as it appears we do not see them go to pieces like you do across the pond.
I've got the originals on my 2 97s (184,000+ miles, 147,000+ miles) and on my 01 (80,000+ miles) and 02 (140,000+ miles) with no issues.

 

[Nucker]

Hi Upt' and thanks for the welcome and reply, I don't suppose you sold yours to a mate who has still got it gathering dust?

 

[Upt' North]

Hi Upt' and thanks for the welcome and reply, I don't suppose you sold yours to a mate who has still got it gathering dust?

It went to a chap in Edinburgh and he won't be letting it go.
Good try though.

 

[Nucker]

I might suggest trying to source a used one from the USA EBay as it appears we do not see them go to pieces like you do across the pond.
I've got the originals on my 2 97s (184,000+ miles, 147,000+ miles) and on my 01 (80,000+ miles) and 02 (140,000+ miles) with no issues.

Hi Uncle Phil, yes these bikes do seem to be built for an arid climate. Good to see those high mileage figures tho, my 2 bikes have done 90k miles and 50kmiles. Its the 90k one that i have managed to get out of the garage first, i have no idea what state the other is in yet. After an oil and filter change, a set of plugs, a replacement fuel pump and a quick carb clean to stop the float valves flooding the cylinders, the 90k one fired up and runs sweet as a nut with no smoke or rattles. it did however, develop a small pinhole in the radiator tank when it got up to temperature, so that will need replacing. It seems as though it will be worth spending a bit on them if they will last that long.

 

[Bikeric]

Welcome to the forum from Cornwall UK!

 

[Uncle Phil]

Hi Uncle Phil, yes these bikes do seem to be built for an arid climate. Good to see those high mileage figures tho, my 2 bikes have done 90k miles and 50kmiles. Its the 90k one that i have managed to get out of the garage first, i have no idea what state the other is in yet. After an oil and filter change, a set of plugs, a replacement fuel pump and a quick carb clean to stop the float valves flooding the cylinders, the 90k one fired up and runs sweet as a nut with no smoke or rattles. it did however, develop a small pinhole in the radiator tank when it got up to temperature, so that will need replacing. It seems as though it will be worth spending a bit on them if they will last that long.

Between my four running ST1100s (I own eight in total), I just crossed the 1/2 million mile mark between the four of them.

Half A Million Miles On ST1100s | Ride Reports

Since 'half a million' sounds more impressive than '500,000' I'll go with that. I was down to only 60 miles left so I took sort of a 'ceremonial' ride to finish it off. I felt like RedBird - who started it all in 1997 - was the proper machine for this milestone. And since I love the Natchez...

www.st-owners.com

 

[Nucker]

Welcome to the forum from Cornwall UK!

Thanks Bikeric

 

[Nucker]

Between my four running ST1100s (I own eight in total), I just crossed the 1/2 million mile mark between the four of them.

Half A Million Miles On ST1100s | Ride Reports

Since 'half a million' sounds more impressive than '500,000' I'll go with that. I was down to only 60 miles left so I took sort of a 'ceremonial' ride to finish it off. I felt like RedBird - who started it all in 1997 - was the proper machine for this milestone. And since I love the Natchez...

www.st-owners.com

Wow ! Fair play !

 

[jfheath]

Try David Silver Spares. He had a couple in stock a good while ago, but they are always searching for old stock. New stock - Fowlers.co.uk seem to have direct access to European and Japanese warehouse stock. If there are any around in official warehouses, they will be able to locate them.

There were design changes over the years. You need to know your model number and perhaps your VIN.

Good luck !

 

[Flexit]

OK @Nucker I'm definitely no mechanic, but, when you say there is corrosion on the swing arms have you actually checked whether it is terminal (ie bash it with a hammer test ). Each year, after the winter I look at my three 1100s. Inevitably they are showing surface corrosion, but are actually solid underneath. I apply de-ruster (fertol in my case) and then a covering of paint (all in-situ) and they keep on going.

 

[Nucker]

Try David Silver Spares. He had a couple in stock a good while ago, but they are aleays searching fir old stock. New stock - Fowlers.co.uk seem to have direct access to European and Japanese warehouse stock. If there are any around in official warehouses, they will be able to locate them.

There were design changes over the years. You need to know your model number and perhaps your VIN.

Good luck !

Thanks John, Yes I have model numbers and VIN's for both bikes and I have scrolled through David Silver's available spares and didn't see one. I don't know if its worth asking if he has one "under the counter"? I am waiting on him replenishing his stock of cam belt idlers and tensioners to go along with a new belt so its worth an ask I suppose. I have just tried Fowlers and had to take a deep breath... they can get one on back order for a 4 figure fee ! Time for another look on Ebay i think before i have to resort to dusting off my welding mask.

OK @Nucker I'm definitely no mechanic, but, when you say there is corrosion on the swing arms have you actually checked whether it is terminal (ie bash it with a hammer test ). Each year, after the winter I look at my three 1100s. Inevitably they are showing surface corrosion, but are actually solid underneath. I apply de-ruster (fertol in my case) and then a covering of paint (all in-situ) and they keep on going.

Hi @Flexit, Thanks for the optimism but it is beyond surface corrosion. I tapped on the webs between the arms and got a decidedly dead sound in some places instead of a solid metallic clang. A sure sign of internal rot preventing the steel from ringing. My next step was to apply some pressure in the dead sounding areas and sure enough, with not too much pressure , what should have been solid started to give way , a little more pressure and "pop" in went my thumb nail. At that point I stopped, took a step back and quietly cursed... I don't know the full extent of the corrosion and will investigate fully if a solid replacement cannot be found. Before I start digging out the rot though, I will make some card templates of suspect parts to help with fabricating some new parts, unless... the rot has invaded the main tubes and is not just confined to the pressed steel webs. If the main tubes are rotten, then I will start seriously thinking of breaking it/them, depending if they are both in the same condition, or build one good one and scrap the other ??

 

[Flexit]

@Nucker Oh well, it was worth a try. But here's one for you off Ebay. I got one from the same seller about a year ago as a spare for future use. Mine certainly seems solid and the insides look good (at least as far as I can see! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17663723...Y24BK0kV8Vabt3SqBPXZ1czA==|tkp:Bk9SR8y26fvrZA

 

[Nucker]

@Nucker Oh well, it was worth a try. But here's one for you off Ebay. I got one from the same seller about a year ago as a spare for future use. Mine certainly seems solid and the insides look good (at least as far as I can see! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176637239791?_skw=st1100+swing+arm&itmmeta=01JDFVTBCTTVX1PCVXZZYF3FBB&hash=item29206661ef:g:JA4AAOSwfrpnFkHs&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKmMExQXkbAgZQLPn1thxgg4mO8SFpNjtYXnGDDOj6xFrdiNUex3Cy7Y1mz9YAXDd66YrtbbxXQsjoRqd6wep8R5jV35RJiFUHxA3oSjXrIgK6+sJXCM379cXyOEKf2/1ip2U7KMmEi2OPxur5JibP+lsZ68Z708PtaOD9VWPeCTv33LAiw2lsvc03tpNWU+thkReEfabfeN0ezWrKDcku1Ru40eOvUd7z9V/RW2Cg/lD6aYso2PzcjII9lQwnwnw/HNvP4IxADncsV6+Vk2YPY24BK0kV8Vabt3SqBPXZ1czA==|tkp:Bk9SR8y26fvrZA

@Flexit Thanks for the link, its on its way. fingers crossed, it is as described. I have also ordered a radiator from ebay and cam belt with idler and tensioner from David Silver. There's 90k on the clock so i thought it prudent . I'll get all that sorted then have a good look at the calipers and wheel bearings.

 

[jfheath]

@Flexit Thanks for the link, its on its way. fingers crossed, it is as described. I have also ordered a radiator from ebay and cam belt with idler and tensioner from David Silver. There's 90k on the clock so i thought it prudent . I'll get all that sorted then have a good look at the calipers and wheel bearings.

Well done on finding one. You MUST use the correct tool for installing the left hand side lock nut. It is the one with an arm with a square 1/2" drive hole at the end. This is because you need to hold the inner swing arm bolt while holding the outer lock nut.

The reason for this is that when you tighten the bolt - it is actually a little too tight. When you tighten the locknut, it pulls the bolt back out a fraction.

Anyone who has ever adjusted the old fashioned cone and loose ball bearings on a bicycle wheel will be familiar with this behaviour. Adjust the bearing - not too tight, not too slack. Make sure it doesn't move with the cone spanner. Tighten the lock nut. Far too slack. ​

The torque specified for the locknut takes into account the extra leverage provided by the arm.

90K for the timing belt is spot on its due to be replaced date !

 

[SMSW]

I found these on ebay:

~~~ HONDA ST1100 PAN EUROPEAN SWING ARM WITH HUGGER ~~~ | eBay

I think it has been sealed and coated with a custom made hugger.

www.ebay.com

~~~ HONDA ST1100 PAN EUROPEAN SWING ARM SPARES OR REPAIR #2 ~~~ | eBay

SPARES OR REPAIR.

www.ebay.com

~~~ HONDA ST1100 PAN EUROPEAN SWING ARM SPARES OR REPAIR #1 ~~~ | eBay

SPARES OR REPAIR.

www.ebay.com

Those look pretty rough. There are also a few in Germany with an asking price of $600+USD that look excellent. And then there is this one....How can you go wrong?

1993 Honda ST1100 Swing Arm | eBay

This motorcycle had 7,822 miles on it prior to being disassembled. This motorcycle started and ran as it should. The engine and electrical components were all in working condition. ( VIN# JH2SC2646PM300187).

www.ebay.com

 

[Nucker]

I found these on ebay:

~~~ HONDA ST1100 PAN EUROPEAN SWING ARM WITH HUGGER ~~~ | eBay

I think it has been sealed and coated with a custom made hugger.

www.ebay.com

~~~ HONDA ST1100 PAN EUROPEAN SWING ARM SPARES OR REPAIR #2 ~~~ | eBay

SPARES OR REPAIR.

www.ebay.com

~~~ HONDA ST1100 PAN EUROPEAN SWING ARM SPARES OR REPAIR #1 ~~~ | eBay

SPARES OR REPAIR.

www.ebay.com

Those look pretty rough. There are also a few in Germany with an asking price of $600+USD that look excellent. And then there is this one....How can you go wrong?

1993 Honda ST1100 Swing Arm | eBay

This motorcycle had 7,822 miles on it prior to being disassembled. This motorcycle started and ran as it should. The engine and electrical components were all in working condition. ( VIN# JH2SC2646PM300187).

www.ebay.com

Hi SMWS, thanks for that. as you said, apart from the last one, they look a bit rough. Unfortunately, the last one will not ship to the UK . I emailed them to ask as the UK was not on their ship to list. they replied with a standard " if your country is not listed then we do not ship there" .. Fingers crossed, the one I have on its way will be ok.

 

[Nucker]

Well done on finding one. You MUST use the correct tool for installing the left hand side lock nut. It is the one with an arm with a square 1/2" drive hole at the end. This is because you need to hold the inner swing arm bolt while holding the outer lock nut.

The reason for this is that when you tighten the bolt - it is actually a little too tight. When you tighten the locknut, it pulls the bolt back out a fraction.

Anyone who has ever adjusted the old fashioned cone and loose ball bearings on a bicycle wheel will be familiar with this behaviour. Adjust the bearing - not too tight, not too slack. Make sure it doesn't move with the cone spanner. Tighten the lock nut. Far too slack. ​

The torque specified for the locknut takes into account the extra leverage provided by the arm.

90K for the timing belt is spot on its due to be replaced date !

Thanks for the advice, It does seem a bit fiddly. I did wonder about the 2 types of tool available. best put one on order.
My cam belt, idler and tensioner has just arrived.
As soon as my radiator arrives i will start stripping the front of the engine down.

 

[jfheath]

There are some pattern tools on ebay at present. They look correct, but hard to tell from photos.