Looking for a downloadable ST-1300PA schematic...
Article [13] ST1300 - Wiring Schematic
- Thread starter Anna'sDad
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BTDT.
Just had cause to look at the PDF version again this evening, ahead of a planned installation of a replacement headlight wiring loom to stop it from eating left-side low beam elements like they were taffy.
Two reasons, I suppose.
1: It's not clear to me that LEDs would not be susceptible to the same issue that lies at the root of the problem I am hoping to solve (repeated burn-out of the left low beam element). Maybe it's obvious to those familiar with the technology but it isn't, to me.
2: I do not like adaptors, which from my disinterested skimming of the LED threads I believe are required. Are they built into the bulbs themselves, similar to how compact fluorescent bulbs are made for standard incandescent sockets?
And (probably most importantly), I simply never really considered it as an option.
ST Gui
240Robert
1) What is the root cause you hope to eliminate with new wiring? As far as LEDs vs halogens this may be enlightening.
2) No adapters are required for the 1300. They're necessary for the 1100s. One brand of LEDs has an optional base for our ST that's affixed to the bulb for a perfect three-point landing. Otherwise you just clip off the two bottom tabs on other bulbs as you would if upgrading to a 55/60W bulb. No adapter no worries.
Most of the LED headlight bulbs have an external driver module— a small sealed box that gets ty-wrapped or otherwise affixed out of the way. Very easy peasy. Plenty of info here should you become undisinterested.
2) No adapters are required for the 1300. They're necessary for the 1100s. One brand of LEDs has an optional base for our ST that's affixed to the bulb for a perfect three-point landing. Otherwise you just clip off the two bottom tabs on other bulbs as you would if upgrading to a 55/60W bulb. No adapter no worries.
Most of the LED headlight bulbs have an external driver module— a small sealed box that gets ty-wrapped or otherwise affixed out of the way. Very easy peasy. Plenty of info here should you become undisinterested.
The left low beam element has burned out four times in 28,000 miles that I've owned the bike. I've read on other forums that replacing the wiring solves the problem permanently, and now that I have seen not only the wiring diagram for the replacement but the actual kit itself I see how it works. Power is supplied direct from the battery by MUCH heavier wires than OEM spec, and controlled by / run through a pair of relays (one high beam, one low) tied into and triggered by the OEM wiring on the bike.
Perhaps converting to H4 LEDs would also work due to their lower current draw. And of course they'd lower the overall load on the alternator and existing wiring as well- never a bad thing.
The problem is in the voltage difference between left/right due to different wiring paths. LED's will not be susceptible to this issue, they will nto notice the voltage difference. The driver units will adjust the current flow as required, minor voltage fluctuations will not be noticed by the LED element.
ST Gui
240Robert
+1 From what I recall reading earlier threads here the the left/right delta is <1V with the left headlight receiving a slightly higher voltage.. The LEDs proper should see a regulated voltage when connected to 9-30V according to my/Andrew's above links.
ibike2havefun said:
I understand how heavier gauge wiring may supply more current to the bulb. I did this when adding a Vetter Windjammer to my GL1000. The difference in brightness was noticeable in broad daylight.
The rationale is probably something about the left bulb not getting enough current and running on less than ~12V is causing it to burn out. Maybe there's something to that. But that doesn't explain why the right bulb seems to last longer. The answer might be in better connections made with the wiring is replaced. I have no idea but think LEDs are overall more robust with a quality product.
At the very least adding a heavier/duplicate ground wire to the left headlight connecter might be a good idea. Hope you get it sorted.
I think it was two years ago, I had an intermittent problem where the high beams would either come on spontaneously, or would remain on after I switched back to low beam. My investigation led to a badly corroded (nearly severed) connection at the right bulb. I don't recall for certain now whether it was the hot or the ground lead but after I replaced the flag connector I've had no further problems on that account.
I may hedge my bets. The replacement wiring comes with two fresh H4 sockets, to replace the OEM. The installation instructions call for cutting at least one of the sockets off and using Posi-lock connectors (supplied) to wire in the leads that go to the relays. Instead of doing that I may use Posi-Taps and leave the OEM sockets in place, in case something goes wrong and I want to remove the kit later on.
Having installed the kit (whether I've removed the OEM sockets or not) I am still completely at liberty to *also* switch to LEDs if I choose, either at the same time or later. But I understand that making *two* changes at once means you can never know which change (if either) fixed the problem. So I may do one, wait a season or two, and then decide about the other. In the meantime, and before I install the new wiring, I have some reading to do about LED headlights. Time to go search for those threads...
ST Gui
240Robert
Fair point.
Thanks. I started reviewing some of them earlier today. Will look over the others soon.
Thinking more on the subject, these two topics (replacement wiring vs. LED conversion) seem to be complementary rather than mutually exclusive.
Reading the threads, it appears that most people's primary motivation for making the change from halogen to LED seems to have much more to do with "More light! I want/need MORE LIGHT!" than it does with "I'm getting tired of feeding bulbs to my ST because it has uneven power between the two headlight bulbs, and causes one side to burn out far too often."
Although changing the wiring may *also* have a side benefit of *modestly* brightening up the halogens, *my* motivation has more to do with not having to stick my arm into the lion's mouth once or twice a year and wrestle a dead bulb out. I'd long since changed to the 60/55W Sylvania bulbs because two birthday cake candles put out more light than the stock 45/45 OEM bulbs.
But the Sylvanias don't last any longer than the stock bulbs. The cost of replacement is not so high that it's a deciding factor (I can afford a few bucks once a year to replace even a $15 or $20 bulb) but the aggravation of having to do it tips the balance. *Something* must be done.
I now understand that same outcome (not changing bulbs every year) might also be an achievable side effect of changing to LEDs because they have additional "smart" technology to even out / compensate for voltage irregularities, making them less prone to failure while at the same time virtually *guaranteeing* a notably higher light output.
Given that the operational voltage range of every LED bulb that could fit the ST almost certainly covers far more than the voltage range delivered by the OEM wiring, and that their electronic controllers automatically adjust the light to compensate for differences in voltage, it may be that there is no added benefit whatsoever ( * ) to be had by installing the replacement wiring *in addition to* the LED bulbs.
Thing is, I've already bought the wiring harness and don't feel like shipping it back to Japan is worth it. So perhaps the thing to do is put it in a carefully-labeled box and set it aside for (possible) later use, then go source and install a pair of Evitek F2s (seems to be the bulb of choice, for a number of you).
Thanks for getting me to consider alternatives, before I start making permanent changes to the bike.
(* - the ONE benefit is that the sockets look like they are going to be MUCH easier to release from the bulbs. But is that a good thing? And will I ever have to do it, if the bulbs have a lifetime of 30,000+ hours of operation? I'd have to ride 8 hours a day, five days a week, 50 weeks a year, for 15 years to reach 30,000 hours of operation. Doubtful, at best. )
Reading the threads, it appears that most people's primary motivation for making the change from halogen to LED seems to have much more to do with "More light! I want/need MORE LIGHT!" than it does with "I'm getting tired of feeding bulbs to my ST because it has uneven power between the two headlight bulbs, and causes one side to burn out far too often."
Although changing the wiring may *also* have a side benefit of *modestly* brightening up the halogens, *my* motivation has more to do with not having to stick my arm into the lion's mouth once or twice a year and wrestle a dead bulb out. I'd long since changed to the 60/55W Sylvania bulbs because two birthday cake candles put out more light than the stock 45/45 OEM bulbs.
But the Sylvanias don't last any longer than the stock bulbs. The cost of replacement is not so high that it's a deciding factor (I can afford a few bucks once a year to replace even a $15 or $20 bulb) but the aggravation of having to do it tips the balance. *Something* must be done.
I now understand that same outcome (not changing bulbs every year) might also be an achievable side effect of changing to LEDs because they have additional "smart" technology to even out / compensate for voltage irregularities, making them less prone to failure while at the same time virtually *guaranteeing* a notably higher light output.
Given that the operational voltage range of every LED bulb that could fit the ST almost certainly covers far more than the voltage range delivered by the OEM wiring, and that their electronic controllers automatically adjust the light to compensate for differences in voltage, it may be that there is no added benefit whatsoever ( * ) to be had by installing the replacement wiring *in addition to* the LED bulbs.
Thing is, I've already bought the wiring harness and don't feel like shipping it back to Japan is worth it. So perhaps the thing to do is put it in a carefully-labeled box and set it aside for (possible) later use, then go source and install a pair of Evitek F2s (seems to be the bulb of choice, for a number of you).
Thanks for getting me to consider alternatives, before I start making permanent changes to the bike.
(* - the ONE benefit is that the sockets look like they are going to be MUCH easier to release from the bulbs. But is that a good thing? And will I ever have to do it, if the bulbs have a lifetime of 30,000+ hours of operation? I'd have to ride 8 hours a day, five days a week, 50 weeks a year, for 15 years to reach 30,000 hours of operation. Doubtful, at best. )
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I concour... unless your wiring is already toasted.
Well, I went and did it. Evitek F2s are on their way. I had a response from Cindy within five minutes of my initial email; the whole deal was done within 90 minutes (it could been less had I been paying closer attention to my phone...)
Thanks, everyone.
Should return this thread to wiring and transfer all these posts to the lighting area, but we did at least talk about wiring here and there.
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thank you very much.Click the link for a bigger (and more recent) version.
The schematics can be downloaded from the Google Docs page, click on 'File', then choose 'Download'.
The schematic can be viewed by any .pdf viewer.
ST1300/A
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5AgdjJdxahQZEJxZzdrQXhLcDA/edit?pli=1
ST1300
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5AgdjJdxahQMktGRWhVOU1EWEk/edit?pli=1
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Is revision 7 of this schematic the latest version?
If so I just noticed a copy/paste error- Turn Signal Lamp (RH) is listed for both sides at the rear instead of a left and a right. I believe that the wiring colour is correct however.
Excellent job on the schematic- it must have taken you hours to do this.
Thank you very much! Excellent resource.Click the link for a bigger (and more recent) version.
The schematics can be downloaded from the Google Docs page, click on 'File', then choose 'Download'.
The schematic can be viewed by any .pdf viewer.
ST1300/A
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5AgdjJdxahQZEJxZzdrQXhLcDA/edit?pli=1
ST1300
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5AgdjJdxahQMktGRWhVOU1EWEk/edit?pli=1
Just FYI, the ST1300-PA uses a different and more complex wiring harness and hence different schematics. They are included in the STP version of the shop manual.
Thanks Anna'sdadClick the link for a bigger (and more recent) version.
The schematics can be downloaded from the Google Docs page, click on 'File', then choose 'Download'.
The schematic can be viewed by any .pdf viewer.
ST1300/A
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5AgdjJdxahQZEJxZzdrQXhLcDA/edit?pli=1
ST1300
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5AgdjJdxahQMktGRWhVOU1EWEk/edit?pli=1
I cant quite see which pin on the ECU comes from the 12V tip over switch. If anyone can help with this it would be a great help.
Thanks
woodybelle
Site Supporter
It looks to me that the bank angle sensor controls the bank angle sensor relay. When the bank angle sensor energizes the relay the relay energizes the fuel injectors and the ignition coils. The bank angle sensor has no wire going to the ECU.
Figured it all out
Put 12v to the open pin next to the black white wire on the brown plug and it fires up the ignition system
Put 12v to the open pin next to the black white wire on the brown plug and it fires up the ignition system