Article [13] ST1300 - Rear Shock Removal

[RobbieAG]

I replaced my shock this past weekend. Here are some observations. It was more involved than my ST1100 was, but not that bad.

- removed rear wheel (was replacing rear tire)
- didn't remove right step holder, just loosened bolts to clear removing the lower shock bolt. Reversed the bolt when reinstalling.
- had to remove seat adjuster (not mentioned in service manual) to access top shock bolt. Used tape on the nut and stuffed a rag underneath in case it came off during installation.
- didn't need to remove shock preload adjuster knob as service manual advises
- didn't need to remove the battery
- removed and installed the shock through the top/side

 

[dwallander]

I replaced my rear shock today. It took me about 2.5 hours to do the swap - stock to stock shocks. I got a clean shock off EBay and I will have my original rebuilt for when the 'new' one fails.

Put the bike on the center stand. Be careful not to knock the bike off the center stand while you are working the shock loose and into place and moving the rear tire up and down to line up the mount holes.

I removed the following:

• Seat
• Left and right under seat body panels. I left the lower cowl bolts alone.
• Plastic knob on the preload adjuster - there is a ball bearing and small spring under the plastic cap. Don't lose them. If you are rebuilding the shock or replacing with a stock shock, you will need them and they are easy to lose.
• I left the preload adjuster bracket in place and removed the adjuster from the bracket - two small bolts.
• Remove the front seat bracket - 5 small bolts
• Remove the plastic battery cover, you can leave the battery in place. It may be helpful to unhook the negative post wires.
• Remove the bolt that holds the rear brake fluid reservoir in place.
• You don't have to touch the left side foot peg bracket. Do loosen the four bolts on the right side foot peg bracket, you need just a bit more room to get the lower shock bolt out, but you don't need to remove the bracket.

I left the rear tire in place. It would be a bit easier to get the shock out with the wheel out of the way, but it is not necessary. I also left the mufflers in place and did not loosen the bolts.

Remove the lower shock bolt. I used a long extension and a U-joint on the end from the left side of the bike and a box wrench on the right side of the bike. Move the rear wheel up and down as you work the bolt out. Put the lower mount bolt in from the left side and the nut on the right side when you reassemble and you won't have to mess with the right side foot peg bracket again.

Remove the top shock bolt. Put a piece of very sticky tape over one side of a box end wrench (sticky part facing into the hole) and work the wrench onto the cap nut from the top side where the seat bracket was. You can't see what you are doing, you will have to feel for it. Carefully remove the nut or you will lose it where you aren't going to get to it again.

Work the lower part of the shock up off the swingarm and move it toward the tire as you work the upper part of the shock out of its mount. Once it is loose, you can remove it, top first, through the hole in the right side of the frame.

There is just enough room to work the preload adjuster up and through the spaces where the line runs. Pay attention to how it runs as you will have to reverse the process if you are putting a stock shock back on.

Reverse the process with the new shock. Put the shock back in as it came out, with the damping adjuster and the hose facing the same way they were before they came out. I put the top bolt and nut back in first.

 

[docw1]

I'm in the process of changing my rear shock. At 156,000 miles, I finally came to the conclusion it was needed. I would have done it sooner had I noticed the subtle findings. When the rear wheel started bouncing at 70 MPH on a smooth stretch of road, I knew then it was time. I bought a used one on E-Bay, but I'm not sure how well it will work. Taking some time because of other needs. Is there a place that will refurbish the old shock? If so, any ideas on price and time? There seems to be a part number change around 2009. Any idea what that change is and if older shocks could be used on a newer bike?

Thanks,

 

[Fred Primmer]

For the most part of the last two seasons the rear shock preload on my 04 ST1300 would not hold fluid. I filled it a couple times and I would get some resistance initially. After a few rides and turning in more preload each time, the preload would be fully turned in and the top of the shock would be oily. It seemed likely to me the o-rings in the preload at the shock top were shot. I've seen videos and read about taking the shock apart to change the spring or those o-rings but was hesitant to venture into the unknown.

On Sunday at the Lonestar in Milton Ontario RTE and swap table event, fellow member @dtcoleman kindly brought in a rear shock for me with about half the mileage as mine. So with a couple of mild days on Monday and Tuesday, I read this article and posts and changed out my rear shock.

I did remove the seat, seat adjuster, panniers, left and right side covers, right side lower cowl (grey) and battery. Also removed the right side front seat rail bolt to give access to the top shock nut and loosened the right side foot pegs bracket. I did not remove the rear wheel or the mufflers.

Disconnecting the preload on the left side and removing the top/bottom shock bolts was pretty routine. It was wrestling the shock out was toughest part. It took a bit of wiggling and jiggling. I used the method described in post #22 above: move the bottom of the shock up off the swing arm and towards the tire, work the top out the right side. The biggest obstacle seemed to be the bottom front edge of the battery box catching the coils of shock spring and preventing movement of the shock in the desired direction. You can't remove the battery box because it is one piece with the whole inner fender but I could put some pressure on it to temporarily distort it enough to free the shock. The replacement shock went into position with very little trouble.

So thanks again to all the contributors for the extremely helpful articles and information on this forum. My ST is in a much better condition and my old shock is on my bench waiting for a rainy day after I get a press and couple of new o-rings (and maybe a new hose).

 

[Cortina]

Smiling as I read these .... NO ONE , so far (mentioned) has had a problem removing the bottom bolt . Am I really the first ??
It's still work in progress (this is day 3 ... days are not long) Remove nut - easy . Turn bolt to free it up ... nope ! This bolt ain't for turning.
Ok - lets apply some heat (hot air) - get things up to 100C + and tap it out from nut side (left) .... nope , not moving. More heat , more "stuff" to penetrate ... and hit it harder.
Nope , not a sausage. Right , more heat , and a sledge hammer ...... something is starting to shift. Ohhps , the right hand fork of the shock is starting to bend .
Stop. Drill out head of bolt, as deep as will take me through the body of the shock mount - done , open up to about 9mm dia , shear off head of bolt.
Stop , more heat more lube .... try tapping out remains from right hand side. No - still solid.
Stop , return to left hand side , put spacers / washers on left hand side , and use the thread and a nut to draw out the bolt (this is starting to annoy me now !!!)
yes ... this appears to be working , bolt seems to have moved a bit ... keep going , this SHOULD get easier .... it did , threads stripped on nut ... go again , new nut .... ***** , stripped threads on bolt now.
Stop , ok , lets' cut off remains of bolt , then we just have to tap bolt back in about 6mm , and we are done
No, tapped in about 2 mm in and we are solid again.

... and so to today (starting shortly). will try and drill out first 5 or 6 mm of bolt from left hand side , this will NOT be so easy due to lack of access ... hard to get square on to head of bolt remains

AGGGGhhhhhh ....................

 

[Cortina]

Me one , Shock Bolt Nil ... another hour of work today , mostly drilled out bolt from Right - was then able to drive out remains.
Phots of what was left attached (If I can !)

 

[Sadlsor]

All that orang-ey coloration offers a decent clue why it was so stubborn.
I don't see mention of your bike's year / mileage...?

 

[Cortina]

All that orang-ey coloration offers a decent clue why it was so stubborn.
I don't see mention of your bike's year / mileage...?

Without doubt - but on a 10mm bolt (dia) over length (guess) of 40mm .... resisting a sledgehammer blow / approx 85 ft lbs of torque .... never ceases to amaze me !
Bike is 2007 , with approx 115,000 miles - commuted on every day of the year for most of it's life. I think I am the first person to clean / maintain it properly (it's a one previous owner from new). Just the front forks to rebuild now and a wax valve to invesigate ... and it's assembly and ride time !

 

[Josh_ST]

I followed post 24 and had success swapping mine out. Bought a used one off of FleaBay that already had the Racetech spring that met my needs.

Only thing I can add is I removed the knob off the preload adjuster, as it was almost too wide to fit getting it out. MUCH easier threading the new one in without the knob installed. I had already serviced the one I removed and the preload works great, and I serviced the new one before I installed it.

Also, I'm double darkside and no issues leaving the tire mounted
.

 

[beechum1]

what size are the top eye bolt o-dust 0-rings? the OD of the "spacer" is about 17.68 and the oring appears to be an interference fit so i would guess 17.5mm diameter and a 2.5mm cross?