When I first got my 1300 it pulled to the right also. I went from Dunlop tires to Bridgestone and that made a big difference. Unfortunately on my last front tire change I had to go back with the Dunlop tire and the pull came back. Go figure.
Article [13] ST1300 - Pulls to the Right
- Thread starter SoloTotoCoyote
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- 1300 wheels
Snowman
Mike
Mine was pulling to the left, and then I noticed my right butt cheak was larger than my left. Apparently I didn't read the instructions before using my wifes Buns Of Steel work out video. Within the next month or two it should be back to tracking straight again.
OP
OP
Mine was pulling to the left, and then I noticed my right butt cheak was larger than my left. Apparently I didn't read the instructions before using my wifes Buns Of Steel work out video. Within the next month or two it should be back to tracking straight again.
:crackup
MiSTer TwiSTer
Tim Truax
Solo, thanks for the info.
My 05 wore the left side of the orig. BS out at 7200mi with another thousand or so to go on the right, and did have a slight pull to the right. When I called the dealer service dept. to ask sbout any issues, the service mgr. just said "road crowning". He almost said it before I finished the question. Do these guys all get trained at the same place? I have never had a Motorcycle wear a tire more on one side before, until this one.
I just installed a new michelin pr2 on the front, followed the improved procedure form this thread, took her for a ride and I think she's runnin straight. I only went for a short trip but was able to take my hands off the bars on a straight stretch. We'll see what's going on in a few thousand.
thanks for your and everyone's input.
tim
My 05 wore the left side of the orig. BS out at 7200mi with another thousand or so to go on the right, and did have a slight pull to the right. When I called the dealer service dept. to ask sbout any issues, the service mgr. just said "road crowning". He almost said it before I finished the question. Do these guys all get trained at the same place? I have never had a Motorcycle wear a tire more on one side before, until this one.
I just installed a new michelin pr2 on the front, followed the improved procedure form this thread, took her for a ride and I think she's runnin straight. I only went for a short trip but was able to take my hands off the bars on a straight stretch. We'll see what's going on in a few thousand.
thanks for your and everyone's input.
tim
Truax, You corner harder on left hand sweeps because you have better visibility. 
OP
OP
The reality is that most don't recieve much, if any, factory/official training. They learn from the guy before them, who learned from the guy before him, who learned from the guy before him, who trained himself, ect... you get the idea. The dealer I used to work for, the Honda Rep was constantly telling us we needed to get our staff to the training as we didn't have anybody who had. The owner refused to pay for it and said no. Some dealers will only send one person who then comes back and is expected to teach everyone else. Anyhoo....
Glad it worked out for you.
MiSTer TwiSTer
Tim Truax
You know that explains why I keep wearing out my left knee puckTruax, You corner harder on left hand sweeps because you have better visibility.
but only on my st1300? Evidently the 1300 is such a capable machine that it has made me a GP rider. Any sponsors out there?:Seriouly thanks for all the input.
tim
Here's another idea. Check the routing of the throttle cables. I noticed on mine the throttle cables, which are only on the right side of the handlebar, were pushing the handlbars to the left, which would make the bike lean and turn right. My front wheel even tended to fall to the left with the bike on the center stand and the wheel in the air. So I looked in the manual and saw it is very specific about which throttle cable should be routed where. I fixed mine and that helped the issue significantly.
Like everyone else, the best I've been able to do is reduce the pulling, not completely eliminate it (I also re-mounted the front wheel, and that helped too). IMHO the ST is just VERY sensitive to suspension adjustments, tire pressure and weight distribution.
I eliminated a dancing front tire and squirmy rear tire by pumping the pressures up to 42 lbs. I would think that is high, but the bike does seem to ride best with the pressures at the recommended level.
I also found that rear shock adjustments make a difference in the geometry of the front, in addition to the rear. I would normally want the suspension fairly stiff. But I have to admit, the ST seems to ride best with the rear shock in or near the "standard" position, which is pretty low.
Also, even though the bike veers right a little under deceleration, it tracks nice and straight when you turn on the throttle.
So I say screw it. Life is too short....
Like everyone else, the best I've been able to do is reduce the pulling, not completely eliminate it (I also re-mounted the front wheel, and that helped too). IMHO the ST is just VERY sensitive to suspension adjustments, tire pressure and weight distribution.
I eliminated a dancing front tire and squirmy rear tire by pumping the pressures up to 42 lbs. I would think that is high, but the bike does seem to ride best with the pressures at the recommended level.
I also found that rear shock adjustments make a difference in the geometry of the front, in addition to the rear. I would normally want the suspension fairly stiff. But I have to admit, the ST seems to ride best with the rear shock in or near the "standard" position, which is pretty low.
Also, even though the bike veers right a little under deceleration, it tracks nice and straight when you turn on the throttle.
So I say screw it. Life is too short....
Harpo
Four Stars
I always thought it was engine torque. Longitudinal engines like the beemer
and boss hoss tend to twist the motorcycle subtly as they apply torque to
the rear wheel. Stands to reason that if the engine is sustaining the bike at
speed, it's twisting against the frame as it does that.
Viewed from the rider seat looking forward, the crankshaft spins in a counter-
clockwise direction. That means the crankcase is pushed clockwise, which
pushes the top of the motorcycle to the right and the tires to the left.
Is this not correct?
and boss hoss tend to twist the motorcycle subtly as they apply torque to
the rear wheel. Stands to reason that if the engine is sustaining the bike at
speed, it's twisting against the frame as it does that.
Viewed from the rider seat looking forward, the crankshaft spins in a counter-
clockwise direction. That means the crankcase is pushed clockwise, which
pushes the top of the motorcycle to the right and the tires to the left.
Is this not correct?
I don't know that there's enough torque to really make a difference.. you see that in big dragsters coming off the line...
I'm pretty sure it doesn't apply to the ST because my new 2008 from the dealer would pull to the right as soon as my hands came off the bars... now, ever since my 1st front wheel tire change, and using the 2008 setup instructions, I could ride for miles with no hands on the bars if I wanted to... so, I'm pretty confident it's not a torque issue.
Harpo
Four Stars
I did the 2008 setup instructions yesterday and I'll see how it rides today.
Seriously, it doesn't take much to make the bike veer slowly to the side and
engine torque is always present whenever power is applied. It's subtle ..
but then subtle is what your hands apply to the bars when you steer the
bike.
By the way, I took a 17MM bolt and nut and welded them together to create
a front axle tool that inserts into the allen fitting on the left side of the bike.
It was easy to make and weighs a lot less than a 17MM hex key. Just insert
the head of the bolt into the allen cavity and put a crescent wrench onto the
welded nut to hold the axle still while loosening the 22MM nut on the right side.
Also, use a 7/8" socket on that 22MM nut if you don't have the right wrench
or socket .. fits perfectly.
Seriously, it doesn't take much to make the bike veer slowly to the side and
engine torque is always present whenever power is applied. It's subtle ..
but then subtle is what your hands apply to the bars when you steer the
bike.
By the way, I took a 17MM bolt and nut and welded them together to create
a front axle tool that inserts into the allen fitting on the left side of the bike.
It was easy to make and weighs a lot less than a 17MM hex key. Just insert
the head of the bolt into the allen cavity and put a crescent wrench onto the
welded nut to hold the axle still while loosening the 22MM nut on the right side.
Also, use a 7/8" socket on that 22MM nut if you don't have the right wrench
or socket .. fits perfectly.
I put new skins(Metzler Z6 F/R) on Friday morning and followed Solo's "new" set up. Rides perfect, No pulling but then again after the Dunflops came off it has never pulled anyhow.
BTW the Z6's are a beautiful tire. very neutral on tip in and responsive to mid corner changes.
BTW the Z6's are a beautiful tire. very neutral on tip in and responsive to mid corner changes.
petesride
I w as wondering if this set up adjustment has made any diference in these bikes that seem to pull to the right? my st 1300 requires more effort to corner to the left and will drift to right if I release the bars.
Yes it has... for me anyway.
Now if you're able to find those red colored bricks,,,,,,,ahh,seem to remember way back in the days when we discussed this,,,,,,,nevermind
Finally I have replaced the front tire at 16,400 miles. Sorry its been so long, last update was 10/05/08 at 5700 miles. Since the last update the tire has shown very uneven wear and I wore it down to the wear indicators but the "tendancy" to go right hasn't changed at all.
I replaced the tire with a Metzler Roadtec Z6. I did the work myself except for the mounting and balancing. I did procedure off this forum thread for mounting the wheel back between the forks and I cycled the suspension with as much force as I could muster before final torque of the left pinch bolts.
My suspicion of the tire being the cause of the remainder of the issue has been confirmed. I can now ride hands off with zero pull. I rode yesterday for over 2 miles on a straight road with my arms crossed, my butt centered in the seat, and empty bags.
So there it is, The dealer fixed it as noted earlier in this thread and I probably should have had them replace the tire then but I needed the bike and never went back.
Once again, Sorry for the length of time between updates. My right pull was certainly barely an issue at all after the dealer worked on it. I just don't put the mileage on my bike that some of you do and it just didn't need a tire until recently.
I replaced the tire with a Metzler Roadtec Z6. I did the work myself except for the mounting and balancing. I did procedure off this forum thread for mounting the wheel back between the forks and I cycled the suspension with as much force as I could muster before final torque of the left pinch bolts.
My suspicion of the tire being the cause of the remainder of the issue has been confirmed. I can now ride hands off with zero pull. I rode yesterday for over 2 miles on a straight road with my arms crossed, my butt centered in the seat, and empty bags.
So there it is, The dealer fixed it as noted earlier in this thread and I probably should have had them replace the tire then but I needed the bike and never went back.
Once again, Sorry for the length of time between updates. My right pull was certainly barely an issue at all after the dealer worked on it. I just don't put the mileage on my bike that some of you do and it just didn't need a tire until recently.
Surprised there are ball brearings in the head.. Gad, my Kaw Z1 had ball bearings, and developed a detent of major proportions. Roller kit cured that forever 25 years ago (yup, still have "my baby"). Seems irrational for Honda or anyone else to still use ball bearings???? Ah well, another farkle on the farkle list!!!
My '07 tracks pretty straight, but I'm used to my BMW RT, they all majorly pull right...
My '07 tracks pretty straight, but I'm used to my BMW RT, they all majorly pull right...
I changed to the 023 stones because of the added weight of topbox, and uni-go trailer. The front tire on the 23's is bigger and she runs true and balanced now. I think some of the problem could be setup and the 20's front tire is narrow. I know that setup is the starting point.
I'm gonna try this technique on my 1100 (2001 ABS, same size tar as the 1300.) All three of my 1100s have always pulled to the right.
Interesting note, my 88 Wing did it too. Loooong discussion with Honda reps at the first Honda Hoot, they finally said to move the tool kit from the right bag to the left bag. Fixed it! Who would'a thought?!
Add my thanks to all the others, Adam. (Oh, you still owe me a caricature, PM sent.)
Interesting note, my 88 Wing did it too. Loooong discussion with Honda reps at the first Honda Hoot, they finally said to move the tool kit from the right bag to the left bag. Fixed it! Who would'a thought?!
Add my thanks to all the others, Adam. (Oh, you still owe me a caricature, PM sent.
)
I remember that thread, Rob, probably need to double check mine. She'll be apart for other work anyway. Documented here or at st-riders.net?