ST1300 LED Headlight Bulbs?

my F2 for my ST has that extra black box. Any bulb that runs an internal voltage other than 12v in the lamp will have one.

It's fairly safe to assume most of these bulbs have that extra black box.
I believe that box includes a diode to keep the low beam on with the high beam.
 
It's fairly safe to assume most of these bulbs have that extra black box.
The ones that you recommended to me, and which I bought and installed, do not have any black box which surprised me when I first saw them as I was expecting them to have this box. The wires from the plug go directly in to the bulb base. This made the install even easier as I didn't have to squeeze my hands in there to tie wrap the box to something. Plug and play they were.
H4 LED Headlight Bulb, OUSHI 70W 14000 Lumen
 
The ones that you recommended to me, and which I bought and installed, do not have any black box which surprised me when I first saw them as I was expecting them to have this box. The wires from the plug go directly in to the bulb base. This made the install even easier as I didn't have to squeeze my hands in there to tie wrap the box to something. Plug and play they were.
H4 LED Headlight Bulb, OUSHI 70W 14000 Lumen
Curios if you feel the need for anything brighter?
 
I wouldn’t hang my hat on the delta of 12000 or 14000 lumens. Either will be plenty bright it’s the quality of the beam edges and upper cut-off that separates the good ones.
 
Going to be installing these on my friend’s ST1300 this week. Up to 2500 lumens each if you order the option that fires all 4 emitters on high beam. We opted not to go with that option.
 

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Curios if you feel the need for anything brighter?
No. I am completely satisfied with these.
I am not a believer that brighter is always better. When I am approached by a vehicle with lights that are to bright I am blinded. I don't think that it is in my best interest to have drivers who are approaching me be blinded by my lights.
 
I wonder if 2500lumens isn't closer to actual light output compared to claims of 15gazillion lumens that so many LED manufacturers make. Or that maybe Cyclops doesn't think gazillions of lumens are needed in real world traffic. Someone here had a set of their aux driving lights. They were pricey IIRC and high output at the time.
 
Going to be installing these on my friend’s ST1300 this week. Up to 2500 lumens each if you order the option that fires all 4 emitters on high beam. We opted not to go with that option.

From what @spiderman302 has posted, those won't work properly. They don't have a cutoff shield over one of the emitters.

They will throw light, but it will likely be blinding to oncoming drivers.

They need a shield like this:

1703421683198.png

edit: upon closer inspection I see it has a shield type thing on the body. Hard to see in the black.
 
From what @spiderman302 has posted, those won't work properly. They don't have a cutoff shield over one of the emitters.

They will throw light, but it will likely be blinding to oncoming drivers.

They need a shield like this:

1703421683198.png

edit: upon closer inspection I see it has a shield type thing on the body. Hard to see in the black.

You are correct, they have the shields. We’ve been very happy with their driving lights.
 

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Are you sure that you have the correct number? 2500 each is pretty low.

Yes, each bulb has four Cree XHP 50 emitters, capable of more than 2500 lumens each @ 5600k They run 38 watts on low and 38 watts on high. I assume that the Ultra configuration, where all four emitters fire on high beam, the wattage is nearly double. I was concerned about the heat in that configuration and opted out.
 
There are a lot of small factors that need to be considered.
A more complete shield is more important with these brighter bulbs to keep the glare down.

The XHP 50 square led, plus the thicker heat sink makes the Cyclops bulb have more of a broader beam pattern.
Their open shield will have slightly more glare. These things makes their bulb better for off road applications.
The bulbs with the thin rectangle led, with the thin heat sink, has tighter focus and puts more light down the road, and on the road, and a full shield that makes less glare is better for on road use.

If you need more lighting then you need to look into PASSING lights ( aka auxiliary low beams ).
Driving lights can only be used with your high beam....
Passing lights are more useful and can be used ALL the time......
 
Bought F3's the replacement for the F2's from Cindy in China. They appear to put more light to the sides of the road and more light down the road.
 

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For the record these did not fit. I trimmed the tabs and made them fit because it wasn’t worth sending them back.

So . . . what did you need to adjust?

Also, where you able to retain use of the rubber boot?

Shuey
 
So . . . what did you need to adjust?

Also, where you able to retain use of the rubber boot?

Shuey
I trimmed off two of the three tabs, not ideal but there’re in there snug. The boot and everything else is fine
 
I installed the Cyclops 10.0 H4 LED bulbs this week. They come with ST (H6) bases, so no tab trimming is required. I did have to trim the center out of the rubber boot. I could not get them to turn and lock without trimming it. The fan base covers the area that was trimmed, so water intrusion should not be a problem. Added some LED marker lights from NAPA and it really looks nice. They pair nicely with the Cyclops Aurora 2 inch, 19 watt auxiliary light set.
 
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