ST1300 Heated Grips

Marcomalo

Marcomalo

Joined
Jan 17, 2009
Messages
152
Location
Louisville, KY
Bike
2007 ST1300
I have a 2007 ABS model. I have owned it since 2013 and it came with heated grips that I was told were factory equipment. I don't know this to be the case, but the grips have always worked well, but recently went dead on me. I wonder if anybody has any suggestions on this issue, assuming that they are factory equipment.
 
My 2006 has new factory grips that I installed 2023. Does your controller light up? If no, check quartet harness fuse (blown?) on left side of bike near steering neck. If controller does light up, then check if you have voltage (engine running @ 3k rpm) at right heated grip wire (white/green stripe). Comment on results for further instructions. :)
 
If they were factory equipment, they were likely powered by the quartet harness, and optional wiring harness that plugged into a mult-pin connector on the bike and split into 4 separate plugs to power grips, gps/phone, radio, etc. You can start trouble shooting from either end, I like starting at the source. Check the fuses. I'd also want to find the connector that supplies power to the grips and verify that there is voltage at that connector. Then continue downstream checking as you go. Here is some info on the q-harness. If one of your grips is dead, you can always use this power source for your new grips (i.e. the quartet harness).

ST1300 Articles

www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
Terminator2 said:
My 2006 has new factory grips that I installed 2023. Does your controller light up? If no, check quartet harness fuse (blown?) on left side of bike near steering neck. If controller does light up, then check if you have voltage (engine running @ 3k rpm) at right heated grip wire (white/green stripe). Comment on results for further instructions. :)
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I see an oblong shape white fuse holder that I would have never noticed, but I don't know how to get hold of it to check the fuse. It seems to be a two hand job and I can't get both hands on it.
 
Marcomalo said:
Thanks, all. This is starting to sound like a cold-weather maintenance job. I'll get by until then.
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That's what the OEM controller looks like. It fits in a cut out on the top of the left fairing. Is it what you have?

As prompted before, does the controller light up when you turn it on? That's should be your starting point.

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Bike engine has to be running ( I run engine 2k-3k rpm) to get it to green light when you push the arrow on button once or twice. If no operate, I usually remove left fairing/plastic to access the fuse that you mentioned in white holder (5amp glass type fuse).
.
 
Terminator2 said:
Bike engine has to be running ( I run engine 2k-3k rpm) to get it to green light when you push the arrow on button once or twice. If no operate, I usually remove left fairing/plastic to access the fuse that you mentioned in white holder (5amp glass type fuse).
.
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Thanks. When the weather gets too cold to ride I will take care of this. I need to do some other maintenance anyway.
 
Good luck. Just a warning - Do not put a multimeter set to ohms on any of the connections to that control panel. It will put a voltage across sensitive components which will destroy them. Not from experience, but from reading the instructions many years ago.

The Honda grips are wired in series. There is a connector- mid handlebar - that joins the two together. The connectors are those sturdy Honda type - they take some effort to push together. The waterproof case seems to seal before the male and female oarts mate properly. Possible that someone didn't have the required oomph and left the terminals just touching. And now they have separated.
 
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jfheath said:
Good luck. Just a warning - Do not put a multimeter set to ohms on any of the connections to that control panel. It will put a voltage across sensitive components which will destroy them. Not from experience, but from reading the instructions many years ago.

The grips are wired in series. There is a connector- mid handlebar - that joins the two together. The connectors are those sturdy Honda type - they take some effort to push together. The waterproof case seems to seal before the male and female oarts mate properly. Possible that someone didn't have the required oomph and left the terminals just touching. And now they have separated.
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Thanks. I will bring this thing into my work area when the weather turns and take the plastic off so I can get to the components. I will then most likely ask advice from all the knowledgeable folks on the forum. I am a serious rider, but I ain't much of a mechanic. I'm pretty careful about messing with stuff I don't fully understand.
 
I once took a look inside the ECU of my ST1100 - wondered if it had water/corrosion in there - being tucked up behind the mirror bracket (ish). I needn't have bothered. All of the circuit board and the electronic components were sealed in a 'bath' of what looked like epoxy resin. Once fried, it is going to stay fried. But always worth a look.
 
jfheath said:
I once took a look inside the ECU of my ST1100 - wondered if it had water/corrosion in there - being tucked up behind the mirror bracket (ish). I needn't have bothered. All of the circuit board and the electronic components were sealed in a 'bath' of what looked like epoxy resin. Once fried, it is going to stay fried. But always worth a look.
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On this side of the pond we would call that 'potting'.
 
Potting ? I've not heard that term before except in a snooker, billiards or horticultural sense- is that the sealed epoxy bath ?

The word may have the same meaning here too. I don't know any electronic experts to talk to. Just me, and I am overwhelmed by it most of the time. I can bluff my way through when I hear a distinctive crack and immediately say - ah yes, that was the LED blowing. I'm very expert in that.
 
No worries John,

This isn't the first example of how two countries are separated by a common language!

From Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potting_(electronics)

"In electronics, potting is the process of filling a complete electronic assembly with a solid or gelatinous compound. This is done to exclude water, moisture, or corrosive agents, to increase resistance to shocks and vibrations, or to prevent gaseous phenomena such as corona discharge in high-voltage assemblies."
 
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