Article [13] ST1300 - Gear Position Indicator (Do It Yourself)

Well I did my test drive today, and the results are not so different with te results I had before... the first 3 gears work perfect, 4th gear jumps rapidly between 4 and 5 and the 5th gear is good. I pulled the pic from the board to read the EEPROM and i guess the values from 4th and 5th are to close together?

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 (address)
05 43 2F 25 1E 19 00 CC FD (hex value)
05 67 47 37 30 25 00 204 253 (Decimal value)

So I have :
5 Gears
1st Gear - 67
2nd Gear - 47
3rd Gear - 37
4th Gear - 30
5th Gear - 25

so between 4th and 5th are (only) 5 IPG cycles to VSS cycles. Is there something in the code I can change to increase stability of the 4th gear?:confused:
 
Last edited:
.. I pulled the pic from the board to read the EEPROM and i guess the values from 4th and 5th are to close together?

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 (address)
05 43 2F 25 1E 19 00 CC FD (hex value)
05 67 47 37 30 25 00 204 253 (Decimal value)

So I have :
5 Gears
1st Gear - 67
2nd Gear - 47
3rd Gear - 37
4th Gear - 30
5th Gear - 25

so between 4th and 5th are (only) 5 IPG cycles to VSS cycles. Is there something in the code I can change to increase stability of the 4th gear?:confused:

Well, that's not what I expected. I would have expected numbers 2x what you've captured.
Hmmm, I can only conclude that the ST1100's ABS sensor must not work like the ST1300's ABS sensor.
Would be interesting to get a look at the signal on an o-scope - wave form (sinusoidal or square), amplitude, and frequency.
Do you have an o-scope, or a frequency counter? With your ST1100's engine running at 1500 RPM, in 1st gear, I'd expect the rear wheel ABS sensor frequency to be approximately 255 Hz.

The ST1300's gearing is ever-so slightly different (but still pretty close). The ST1300's ABS sensor signal is a nicely formed square wave, 50% duty cycle, with amplitude ranging from .7v - 3.8v. 250Hz in 1st gear @ 1500 RPM.

Anyway, based on the numbers you've posted above, you should go back to the previous interrupt service routine logic.
 
Last edited:
I did 'inherit' an o-scope from a friend of mine. He bought another one and wanted to throw this one away, it is a Tektronics 465b so i think i will be able to hook it up. I have to look in to it because it has been ages since i had a quick tutorial on how to use the o-scope :eek::

If i manage to get some results I will post them here.
 
Oke, I'm going to try :)....

The first picture is a fairly nice square wave signal. The o-scope is set at 2 Volts 1 measure a bit more then 1.5 blocks. So I think the signal is max around 3 Volts
I set the Time at .5 ms, i measure allmost 6 blocks which is 3 ms. the frequency must be 1000/3 = 333 hz ??

The second Picture is the IPG signal. I don's know how to call this form of signal :confused:, but i can calculate as above.
I didn't change any settings on the o-scope....

so I measure 2.5 blocks which would be 5 Volts, the length of the wave is around 5 blocks which equals 2.5 ms -->> 1000/2.5 = 400 hz ??

I hope I got the readings right as I had to get them in between rain showers. I measured the signals at the PIC's pin 6 and pin 3 (I removed the PIC before measuring and now I physically lost the PIC :eek::).

I'm going to order some new components so it can take a while before I can test again.


2013-10-11 13.53.01.jpg2013-10-11 13.53.34.jpg
 
I'd be happy with just a dual color LED that told me when I'm in first and when I'm in fifth. To think that I took the gear position indicators on the V-85 Sabre and 650 Night Hawk for granted.
 
I had some success today, I received some new PIC16F88's today and I decided to flash one with the adapted firmware

incf VSSINTS,F ; Increment the VSSINTS ram variable
btfss VSSINTS,7 ; Have we tallied up 128 (0x80, B'10000000') of em yet?
goto IntSvcExit ; No
clrf VSSINTS ; Yes, so restart the counter
comf VSSINT,F ; And toggle the VSSINT flag

And to my big surprise the GPI seams to work quite well now. I don't no what went wrong the last time (if it was a faulty PIC chip, or maybe I messed up) but last time the results were :

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 (address)
05 43 2F 25 1E 19 00 CC FD (hex value)
05 67 47 37 30 25 00 204 253 (Decimal value)

The values I get now are decimal :

00 01 02 03 04 05 06
05 129 84 64 51 44 00

So you were right when you said
Well, that's not what I expected. I would have expected numbers 2x what you've captured.

I will be testing next week, if al works well then all that remains is putting the display in a nice place on the dashboard.
last I will post how I did get everything to work.
 
Oke, I'm going to try :)....

The first picture is a fairly nice square wave signal. The o-scope is set at 2 Volts 1 measure a bit more then 1.5 blocks. So I think the signal is max around 3 Volts
I set the Time at .5 ms, i measure allmost 6 blocks which is 3 ms. the frequency must be 1000/3 = 333 hz ??

The second Picture is the IPG signal. I don's know how to call this form of signal :confused:, but i can calculate as above.
I didn't change any settings on the o-scope....

so I measure 2.5 blocks which would be 5 Volts, the length of the wave is around 5 blocks which equals 2.5 ms -->> 1000/2.5 = 400 hz ??

I hope I got the readings right as I had to get them in between rain showers. I measured the signals at the PIC's pin 6 and pin 3 (I removed the PIC before measuring and now I physically lost the PIC :eek::).

I'm going to order some new components so it can take a while before I can test again.


2013-10-11 13.53.01.jpg2013-10-11 13.53.34.jpg

Did you really capture those traces at pins 3 & 6 of the PIC? Or at R5 & R6?

The trace of the ABS sensor signal looks good, that's what I'd expected.

The trace of the IPG signal has me a little worried tho. There appears to be a negative-going-voltage component. If you were indeed connected to pin 3 of the PIC when you took that measurement, then there should be no negative-going-voltage. You should check for a construction error in the circuitry associated with Q1, and/or a bad transistor (Q1).
Can you hook up the scope again and have a look at the base of Q1? It should be a sinusoidal AC signal, whose frequency and amplitude vary proportionally with engine RPM. At 2000 RPM, I'd expect to see a 400 Hz AC wave form, with a voltage of approximately -2v to +2v (4v p-p) Increasing engine RPM will result in a proportional increase in p-p voltage, perhaps up to as much as +/-15v (aka. 30 p-p). Then, have a look at the emitter of Q1, you should see a square wave, with amplitude ranging from 0V to about 4.5V. If you see any voltage less than 0v at the emitter of Q1, then something is wrong (and you risk wiping out the PIC).
 
Last edited:
Did you really capture those traces at pins 3 & 6 of the PIC? Or at R5 & R6?

Yes I did capture them directly at the PIC pins (at that moment the pic was removed from the socket, and it was easy to probe the pins at the socket). I will try to capture the signal on the base and emitter of Q1 and post the pictures here again. I also found it strange to have negative voltage on the PIC pin, but hey I'm certainly no electronics expert. I only have some basic knowledge, and I'm still learning. This is a very nice project for me it has some nice features to research (voltage divider, pic, transistors) so all your help is very much appreciated.:bow1:
 
... but hey I'm certainly no electronics expert. I only have some basic knowledge, and I'm still learning. This is a very nice project for me it has some nice features to research (voltage divider, pic, transistors) so all your help is very much appreciated.

Make no mistake, neither am I (an "expert"). I also learned a lot in the process of developing this little project. And continue to learn. There are probably countless best-practices design violations. Hopefully our EE brethren out there, feeling generous with their time, will contribute constructive criticism. I'm always up for learning new/better ways to do things.
Anyhow, I'm glad it has been helpful... that was exactly the intention for starting the thread :)
 
My time is at a premium with working full time (Self-Employed at 70 Years Old) and (4) Motorcycles to configure with my many Modifications. So I bit the bullet and ordered (2) GPI's (Gear Position Indicator) from following provider:

http://www.acutrac.co.uk/digital-gear-indicators-23-c.asp

http://www.acutrac.co.uk/digital-gear-indicator-dg8-with-cool-blue-display---30100-67-p.asp

My contact point was David and he has responded to my several questions very quickly.

My Goldwing 1800 has the VEYPOR Analyzer that includes a Gear Position Indicator and my Burgman Executive has an Electronic controlled CVT (Continuous Variable Transmission) that when in manual Mode shows (5) Five Simulated Gear Ranges plus Overdrive.

I am spoiled with the GPI on these two Motorcycles and had to have similar on my 2008 Nomad 1600 with Drive Shaft and my White/Black ST1300PA (Police Special). This UK Supplier seems to have an excellent Product and I look forward to installing their GPI's.

They also sent me PDF Documents showing their Hookup and Training Procedure. I will attach these PDF's and also copy below my correspondence back and forth with them.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi Ron

I sent a PayPal money request earlier, have just resent a reminder.

David

AcuTrac Ltd
6 Towergate Business Pk
Andover
Hants
SP10 3BB
United Kingdom

Tel; 01264 310007

www.acutrac.co.uk

Registered in the England & Wales.
Company Reg Number 05868263
Registered 10 St Ann St, Salisbury, SP1 2DN
________________________________________
Hi David,

Again thanks for the fast feedback ? I will now place an order for (2) of the Digital Gear Indicator DG8 with Cool Blue display ? 30100.

Please send PayPal a Money request as you have stated and I will respond ? I did a conversion and it looks like about $150 Canadian each plus shipping.

Warm Regards,

Ron

Ron Amos
Cell: 613-291-7730
Nerds on Site
Orleans, ON, Canada
www.NerdsOnSite.com
What would it cost you if you lost your data? Try a Free 14 Day Trial of Nerds Backup today. Get your first 2GB of storage for free.
http://www.nerdsonline.com/ramos1
_________________________________
Hi Ron

You can?t really alter it. We would take a White LED ? they are more expensive than the normal Red LED?s ? and put a filter between it and the outer fascia. So every time you want to change the colour you will have to remove the fascia (which is self adhesive so you will need a new fascia) and change the filter and do it again. We normally filter the White ones with a smoked filter, so they look pretty much all black when off, but the white shines through quite well. You also need to consider that all LED?s need a filter ? it improves the contrast so much. Blue is fine unless the sun is shining onto it (ie; you?re riding with the sun behind you); it?s just the way the eye looks at that part of the spectrum.

David
___________________________________
Hi David,

Now you got me thinking as yes I did want the Blue 30100 but as you caution it washes out in direct sun light.

So the best alternative would be the Digital Gear Indicator DG8 - Custom Colour ? 30113 Model if the Colour can easily be changed by the Rider (Me) to suit the time of day. Your WEB Site states the following:

This DG8 Digital Gear Indicator is for a custom-coloured display. We will take a White display DG8 and filter it to the colour of your choice. Match your bike, your partner's eyes! Whatever. Auto-Dim for night-time use (Note! If the display is bright enough to see in the day, it's then too bright at night). Truly universal. The market leader of gear indicators. Plug in looms available - see related products.

Does the We will take a White display DG8 and filter it -- mean only you can do this or is that a miss-print?

Again Thanks,

Ron
___________________________
Hi Ron

I can do a deal straight from PayPal ? I?ll send a PayPal money request but you will need to tell me the colour of the displays you would like- Red White or Blue are the favourites. A word of caution ? everyone goes for Blue because it so pretty, especially at night. But it ?washes out? when the sun is on it. White is stunning as well.

The unit is completed encapsulated so water isn?t a problem, not even for the switch at the back, as the back side is sealed as well.

Size is 26 mm wide, 36mm high and 22 mm deep.

The DG8 has a lead about 300mm long from the housing, ending in a 5pin mini din. A 1.5metre extension lead is also included in the kit.

David
_________________________
Dear Sirs:

Thanks for quick Response ? I will likely order (2) of the Blue LED Gear Position Indicators but need to know their dimensions so I will know where they can be mounted. Since no Plug in looms are available for my Motorcycles can I attach my wiring directly to these units? Is there exposed wiring or terminals to attach wiring?

Also are these units waterproof as they will be exposed to the weather? I can see by your supplied PDF?s there is a hole for the learning Key that could be plugged of covered with Silicon Seal once they are programmed.

I live in Ottawa, Canada (Orleans is part of Ottawa) and your shipping only shows USA? I can pay with PayPal and since I will be purchasing (2) two do I get a break in shipping cost?

My Address for shipping estimate:

Ron Amos
6388 Nuggett Drive,
Orleans, Ontario,
Canada K1C 4X9

Thanks,

Ron.
__________________________________
Hi Ron

The DG8 works by comparing the speedo and tacho signals, effectively learning the gear ratios of he motorcycle. Thanks for the not eon the broken link ? I?ll get that checked by the IT guy.

The DG8 will work well on both of your bikes but it will be a solder job ? there are no plug in looms for those bikes.

David
_____________________________
Sir:

I like the Item listed below but need to know how to connect it to my Honda ST1300 Model Year 2006 and to my Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1600 Model Year 2008:

Digital Gear Indicator DG8 with Cool Blue display ? 30100

Your WEB Page http://www.acutrac.co.uk/digital-gear-indicator-dg8-with-cool-blue-display---30100-67-p.asp states the following:

The DG8 Digital Indicator is the market leader. This DG8 Digital Gear Indicator is with Cool-BLUE display. Will learn up to 8 gears. Auto-Dim for night-time use (Note! If the display is bright enough to see in the day, it's then too bright at night). Truly universal. The market leader of gear indicators. Plug in looms available - see related products.
Will learn up to 8 gears ? how is this done?

Truly universal ? Will it work on my ST1300 & Nomad?

Plug in looms available ? cannot find needed looms on your Web Site?

Related products ? Is this supposed to be link, if so it doesn?t work?

Regards,

Ron
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Above correspondence took only 24 Hours and to complete my Order!

Will now attach the PDF's -- Purpose in sharing this INFO is to provide an alternative for the many ST1300 Owners who are not able to assemble the fantastic GPI Device that (pdfruth) has provided the research for and shared details to build.

At today's exchange Rate my (2) GPI's shipped to my Home costs a total of $255.27

Northern Dancer,

Ron
 

Attachments

  • Acumen DG8.pdf
    184.8 KB · Views: 74
  • DG8 PD8 fitting guide.pdf
    152.8 KB · Views: 76
Results of my Gear Position Indicators (GPI)

Completed installation of my GPI (Gear Position Indicator) on both my Nomad and my ST1300 - 2006 Police Model. Was able to get all needed Wiring connection Points at the (2) two Plugs that connect the Instrument Cluster.

With the ST1300 on its Center Stand I spun Rear wheel at Engine RPM of 2,000 to Train the GPI for my 5 Gears, It gets Neutral input off Neutral Light.

I am really pleased with this device and find I am not forgetting to up-shift to 5th Gear when running at reduced speeds in 4th Gear then accelerating. Also there have been times in past when riding I find myself trying to up-shift when I was already in 5th Gear.

Northern Dancer,

Ron
 
Hi all,

I picked up the HealTech GIpro that hooks into the diagnostic connector under the seat (well, pillion seat). Has anyone tried to install this inside the dash to give it that "I came with this" look?

Russ
 
Russ:
I have the same unit, the plan is to install soon.
i am interested on how you make it look stock, also.
Curt
 
Curt,
Looking at the unit it doesn't look like it's an easy disassemble of the 'brain' in order to split out the LED from the electronics. I'm thinking either putting it in the dash with the speedometer as is. I haven't taken apart the dash to see if there is enough space to mount it in the right lens area as the DIY kit allows.

It almost looks like there is enough space between the plexiglas and the lens to put it in there. Not sure though.

Russ
 
Hi all,

Here's an interesting question for the forum:

Is it possible to remove the dash AFTER you have installed the mirror fairings? I started to and ran into a snag where the 3M'ed on deflector seems to be attached to the fairing and the dash.

Do I have to remove the windshield and the black backing?

Edit: I installed the GIPro in the blank space near the speedometer in the dash. Came out great!

Russ
 
Last edited:
Hi all,

Here's an interesting question for the forum:

Is it possible to remove the dash AFTER you have installed the mirror fairings? I started to and ran into a snag where the 3M'ed on deflector seems to be attached to the fairing and the dash.

Do I have to remove the windshield and the black backing?

Edit: I installed the GIPro in the blank space near the speedometer in the dash. Came out great!

Russ

Looks interesting to me too.... Any pics?
 
Back
Top Bottom